Flare nut wrenches recommendations
Last edited by Mr.Ford 351W; Jan 12, 2007 at 09:49 PM. Reason: wrong title
but which is better:
Craftsman 10 pc. Flare Nut Wrench Set with BONUS 16 X 18 mm Wrench
Sears item #00944010000 Mfr. model #44010 http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
or
Craftsman 11 pc. Full-Polish Flare Nut Wrench Set
Sears item #00942104000 Mfr. model #42104
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Last edited by Mr.Ford 351W; Jan 14, 2007 at 12:06 PM.
GREAT NECK pieces of junk from Auto Zombie.
I posted a while back about how the 18mm snapped when doing A/C. All I needed was a 1/2" flare nut wrench to remove a transmission cooler line, so I decided to use the remaining wrenches in the set. I had better wrenches for smaller sizes (3/8 and 7/16), none for the larger sizes.
So, I decided to use the Autozone 1/2" (great neck), I watched as the WRENCH flared, opened up, and started rounding off the nut. I stopped and ended up loosening it with a Vise Grip (thankfully a good one).
I guess I have to pony up the bucks and get yet more Snap-On tools for my tool box. I try to avoid it, since I no longer work in a garage, but, the more I work on trucks and cars at home, the more I buy Snap-On anyway.
A rounded nut on a fluid line (brake or transmission) just isn't worth it the cost of a cheaper tool when you look at replacing the line.
I would go with either Snap-On or Mac (I have had good luck with them) and forget the cheaper tools for an item that has to be strong and not round off the fastener.
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I spent an hour once measuring Craftsman wrenches in the vain hope of finding one that was within tolerance on the opening.
Craftsman == Junk as far as wrenches are concerned.
IMO if you want good hand tools try Snap-on, Lisle, or SK. Nothing worse than "radiator burn" or a busted knuckle when a wrench slips off.
Last edited by Torque1st; Jan 14, 2007 at 04:38 PM.
Fits tight on the nut, no spreading or rounding.
Not cheap tools but then when your stuck
without one or rounded a nut those tools become
affordable real quick. JMO's.
When they came out with the polished line, he swapped them in and they gave him one set of the regular, and one of the polished line, as it's what they had in stock.
From his experiences with them, for a home shop, or areas where things haven't rusted together (froze up/gunked up etc), he thinks they are fine, but would recommend the pro line (polished) as there seemed to be a bit more material where the head met the handle.
I PO'd them one day when I went home to get a size we didn't have (shops been broken into), and I came back with what they thought was a Snap~On. If you can find them, Kobalt tools USED to be made by J.H. Williams company (a division of Snap~On). They closed out them when Dahaner was going to take over the tool manufacturing of Kobalt.
I have since, purchased, almost a complete set of Snap~On, open end/flare nut end wrenchs.
From what I have seen (told my dad this, and he tried it and said
Does anyone realize there are specifications for wrench sizes and they are listed in the Machinery's Handbook? From what I have seen of Snap-On they must hold their wrenches to even tighter specs. None of the Craftsman wrenches I have measured have met the specs. Of course tight specs don't help if the metal has a low yield strength. When out of spec wrenches are made from low strength material you get Craftsman tools...
Don't buy the Craftsman Torx sockets either. I got tired of taking those back and bought some Lisle Torx sockets from the tool store that not only removed the screws that broke the Craftsman tools but have held up for years since then.
I have had Craftsman arc joint pliers shatter in my hands. Anyone care to guess how much that hurts?
Basically don't buy any Craftsman hand tool made after about 1970.
Does anyone realize there are specifications for wrench sizes and they are listed in the Machinery's Handbook? From what I have seen of Snap-On they must hold their wrenches to even tighter specs. None of the Craftsman wrenches I have measured have met the specs. Of course tight specs don't help if the metal has a low yield strength. When out of spec wrenches are made from low strength material you get Craftsman tools...
Don't buy the Craftsman Torx sockets either. I got tired of taking those back and bought some Lisle Torx sockets from the tool store that not only removed the screws that broke the Craftsman tools but have held up for years since then.
I have had Craftsman arc joint pliers shatter in my hands. Anyone care to guess how much that hurts?
Basically don't buy any Craftsman hand tool made after about 1970.
Their warranty policy does make CERTAIN things worthy of consideration though. That, and the polished wrenches arn't THAT bad.
with their name on it and $70 less than Delta.
You have to know your tools and price shop as
every now and then you get lucky.
It was sad when I remodeled a Sears store that
I turned in 27 screwdrivers that were hammered on,
bent, shank almost out the top, no questions asked
got 'em replaced free. True their quality has gone down.
Stanley tools at Home Depot or your local hardware store
as well parts in general, look where manufactured, China.
Wall Mart I can't say as I never will shop there.



