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FYI warranty pays like half of the regular flat rate and technicians regularly lose their shirt on difficult warranty repairs.
Don't blame that on the customer. I think flat rate and a rate difference between warranty and customer pay is a bunch of crap.
I am VERY close to my dealership and a large number of their techs. Still I insist that I only pay for exactly the number of hours worked. I know these guys are good. I'm entirely satisfied to pay for every hour worked; diagnosis and R&R. However, I'm not at all inclinded to pay 2.1 hours for the alingment guy who puts my truck on the rack, sees it in spec, and drops it back down 15 minutes later. (These guys average 120 hours a week.) Likewise, I don't want to pay 5 hours for ball joints that take 1.5. My dealership and the techs don't particularily like this, but if they want my business, that's all I'm willing to do. Make no mistake I've gladly paid more than flat rate, when it was called for in a complex diagnosis, but in the end, my method had paid off and has afforded me the opportunity to have expert dealer service.
Good to hear they aren't charging you for the week since they charged you 500.00 for less than an hour of labor and a 60.00 part. Wonder if it's some type of short or wiring problem.
Now I do not know if I am mad or just plain upset!!!! The dealership called today and wanted to know if I wanted to pick up my vehicle, cause they could not find out what was causing the problem and for the whole day at least they now cannot duplicate it. Even though it has happened to their techs are several occasions. I asked them what am I supposed to do if it breaks down on me, as it does, and they said well you can have it towed back in and we will look at it again.
I may be hearing it wrong but what I am hearing is that we are tired of this vehicle, it is taking up space, we are not smart enough to figure it out, and once it is out of our bay it becomes your issue again not ours.
I told them did they forget they are dealing with someone that has two children in the car when it does not start???
Okay guys this is an all out cry for help!!! What now??
Truck is still there, I did not feel like getting stranded tonight.
If the fuel system is fine, it almost sounds like maybe the times it doesn't start, the cops/plugs aren't getting any spark. Or when they checked the fuel pump, was it while the vehicle was having the starting problem or when it was starting fine?
Well if you were in their shoes (the technician) I guarantee you would feel differently. Maybe it depends on the region, but sometimes there is more warranty work than not, and the techs are losing their shirt. The reason flat rate was used was to protect the customer. That way if a slow tech takes 3 hours to do a 1 hr job the customer doesn't pay 3 hours. Good techs that know the product and are used to the job regularly beat the flat rate on good jobs but that's because they have experience. They depend on beating flat rate on the good jobs to make up for what they lose on warranty and/or extensive diagnosis on tough repairs. Anyways I can see you people will never understand it, cause all you can understand is your paying money and you don't want to. This is why I had to leave the service advising position. Know it all customers that think they can run the shop, that make me want to tell them to go F themselves. Now I work in a place where everyone gets a regular salary and nobody has to worry about whether or not they're going to make enough at the end of the week to pay the bills. FYI, nobody will ever want to be an automotive technician after working with them for a short time and seeing what they go through.
Sounds too me like the inertia fuel shut -off switch is malfunctioning, if your vehicle has one. I came across this problem in the 1980's while working as a ford tech. Might be worth checking out. I agree with you Shandell if all a tech "guesses" wrong then you shouldn't have to go good for it. What the dealer pays its techs is a small percentage of the hourly door rate, the rest goes for paying costs of doing bussiness including wages of non-value added employees ( the ones that don't repair cars or sell them). What a tech loses on one job he/she definately gains on others. If the tech that tried to repair your vehicle didn't get paid for the job its for good reason... the tech didn't do the job he/she is getting paid for. Sorry for the rant, check the inertia switch maybe you will get lucky.
Well the dealership could not find the problem as to why she is doing this so I brought her home. I drove her all day Saturday and she only did it once, again. I will drive her as usual until she completely dies again and than have her towed back. Maybe she was just having a bad week. We were having freezing temps all that week, she probably did not like the cold. The dealership also has an Escort now that is doing the same thing. I wonder if my EXpy and the Escort were talking?
Well been not driving her for a few weeks I was in Hospital, I am back. ISSUE still unresolved. My son took her to get my meds and she did it again at the Walgreens. This time she tried to start but just puttered and died even when gas peddled depressed.A few minutes later started right up. If my vehicle could have a vapor lock that is exactly what it seems like. Since she cannot have a vapor lock, I think she just hates me. I do love my vehicle but am real close to throwing my hands up and walking away at this point.
Any more ideas?
Last edited by shandell; Feb 19, 2007 at 02:57 AM.
Reason: spelling
Shandell, buy a cheap fuel press tester and hook it up to the fuel rail test port on the passenger side of the engine (looks like a tire valve port) and turn the key on and see if your fuel pressure builds when the pump cycles and then try starting the engine and check pressure again (should be in the 40psi range +/- afew psi) and remeber to bleed of the pressure into a container before you unhook the gauge and dont smoke while doing this (if you feel uncomfortable doing this ask a freind to help).My 99 expy wont build pressure right away when I am running winter gas but will start when I cycle the key twice before starting (has been like this for years). Also its time to change spark plugs in your engine, dont wait till 100,000 miles, and use the reccomened motorcraft plug and have your mechanic check the coils for water intrusion (heater hoses like to drip on them). also if your instruments on your dash sweep after start up its time for a battery. These items can cause your complaints and require time to inspect and diagnose I suggest you ask around and find a good shop to take it to. Also if your engine performs fine after start up I doubt you have any engine control parts failing.
there is a check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank that is set to maintain 32-34 psi in the fuel rails overnight at least. if the valve is held open by dirt or other crud that seems to be in the gas (do to gas shortage-lot of crappy fuel being sold around the country).or the spring becoming weaker with use, pressure can be lost making a pain to star when cold. air gets into rails
have same problem with '99 expedition 4.6 triton.
no idea of possible cost to you.
Last edited by johndaddy; Feb 23, 2007 at 12:17 PM.
Reason: typo
Seriously, when I am encountered with an ongoing problem like yours, I dump it. Trade it in if you are in the position to do so. Consider how much money you are puting into it each month on repairs alone. My wifes Explorer was costing me $200+/mo in parts just fixing it up so it would run/drive nice. I finally traded it in for my Navigator and it cost me $335/mo. I'm ok with that.
Thr crank shaft position sensor could be on it's way out. This would give no/fuel no/spark. This also doesnt store a code very easily and usually resets upon next startup. The cold sensor could be "sticking" when cold. What i mean doesnt store a code very easily, is that when starting and it doesnt produce a signal, the computer just thinks the engine isnt being turned over. The only way to set a code for this sensor is to have it hiccup after the engine has came out of cold loop.
I dunno why i am not allowed to edit my last post, but i was going to add that the sensor costs less than $20 at most autoparts stores.<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=368 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top colSpan=3 height=38>WELLS Camshaft Position Sensor for a 2001 Ford Truck Expedition 4WD
All good suggestions. Crank sensor would be easy test. No fuel AND no spark. Fuel pressure guage with a schrader vavle attachment and a timing light. EFI and firing....these should already be in your tool box. The CPS is world renown for failure on the 96+ 7.3L Powerstrokes. Usually though, these would fail and the truck would just shut off.
Also, check and make sure your oil level is in the middle of the crosshatch on the dipstick.
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