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Need fuel sysstem info, please...

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:07 PM
  #1  
Sabre2th's Avatar
Sabre2th
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From: Marshfield, MO
Need fuel sysstem info, please...

Planning on replacing my pre-pump filter/separator and need more fuel system info. What is the fuel circulation rate (GPH) on the 7.3? Want to make sure I have enough capacity!
Thanks,
Tom

---------------------------------------------
Black 1999.5 F250SD XLT AUTO 4x4 reg. cab(6/99), Pre-pump & Tank Mods, Racor Filter/Separator, HX Mod, ZooDad, WW, Power-pedal Mod, Pop-up gooseneck ball,Brush Guard, 3.5" lift, BFG Commercial AT tires (265/75), 65hp ATS chip, and #2 cologne. Ball joints replaced, and thinking about a BTM (or delete) and shocks....!
Drain valve repair write-up.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 08:10 AM
  #2  
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nlemerise
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From: AZ
I'm not sure of what you are referring to when you say "pre-pump filter/separator"...Do you mean the fuel filter that is under the hood or do you mean a filter that has been added pre-pump (somewhere back near the fuel tank)?

I can't answer the GPH question without making a few assumptions...but here goes:

1) assume that your truck gets 10 mpg
2) assume 50% of the fuel pumped to the engine is returned to the tank on average
3) assume your overall average speed is 60 mph

In an hour the pump would have to supply 12 gallons of fuel (6 gals being burned and 6 gals being returned to the tank). So, to be conservative say it is 15 GPH. It doesn't take much of a filter, when clean, to filter at 15 gph...it is when the filter begings to get dirty (or fuel begins to was due to extreme cold) that flow rate will be affected. Baldwin makes a nice filter base and a filter with a water drain that is perfect for a pre-pump filter...under $40 delivered.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 09:41 AM
  #3  
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Sabre2th
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From: Marshfield, MO
This is one that I mounted on the frame just before the pump (shielded). It is an older Racor that I had laying around that has to have the element installed from the top, meaning the whole unit has to be dropped to change it. These elements are also getting harder to find and more expensive. I was figuring on going with a spin-on type with trap-bowl and water sensor, 10-30 micron filter, at least 30 GPH to make sure it remains free-flowing if I decide to use biodiesel at times. May even opt to get one with fuel heater just-in-case. Overkill?
Thanks for the reply!
Tom

---------------------------------------------
Black 1999.5 F250SD XLT AUTO 4x4 reg. cab(6/99), Pre-pump & Tank Mods, Racor Filter/Separator, HX Mod, ZooDad, WW, Power-pedal Mod, Pop-up gooseneck ball,Brush Guard, 3.5" lift, BFG Commercial AT tires (265/75), 65hp ATS chip, and #2 cologne. Ball joints replaced, and thinking about a BTM (or delete) and shocks....!
Drain valve repair write-up.
 
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2007 | 11:29 AM
  #4  
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nlemerise
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From: AZ
Well, a fuel heater is a nice add-on, but really not needed. I run biodiesel all the time and see subzero temps at night in northern Nevada and never had a fuel gelling problem. I just drove overnight from Nevada to New Mexico at near zero when I left and had no gelling problems at all. That Baldwin head and filter I mentioned has everything you want (flow, water drain, flow rate) except the fuel heater.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 12:36 PM
  #5  
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TwelveAlpha
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From: Lincoln, NE
I don't really hear much about the FASS around here. Maybe I'm the only guy with it.

It's one option out there that fits what you're talking about: pump, filter, water separator. They have 2 pump sizes, 95gph and 150gph. Important detail, the system itself is designed to return excess to the tank, and unless you're running modded injectors, you want the 95.

You can run heater hose to it if you want to, it's drilled and tapped for that, but those lines are not a part of the basic setup. Neither is your tank pickup. It starts at the top of the tank and basically ends at the fuel bowl. If you want to keep it, some think thats a great idea, others, like jtharvey and strokin-7.3 have deleted it altogether and simply gotten a Y block from Summit racing to put in its place.
You cant just pull the filter out of the stock bowl.

I think my setup was around 7 bills. In use, it works fine, it filters great, the separator and filter are very accessable. It certainly makes more noise than the stock pump. At first I wondered what the heck the sound was, but its just a bigger pump than comes stock.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 12:56 PM
  #6  
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Sabre2th
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From: Marshfield, MO
Thanks for the input, but I'm not looking for a pump. The stock one seems to work fine, I just want to update my filter. Where can I find the Baldwins?
Tom

---------------------------------------------
Black 1999.5 F250SD XLT AUTO 4x4 reg. cab(6/99), Pre-pump & Tank Mods, Racor Filter/Separator, HX Mod, ZooDad, WW, Power-pedal Mod, Pop-up gooseneck ball,Brush Guard, 3.5" lift, BFG Commercial AT tires (265/75), 65hp ATS chip, and #2 cologne. Ball joints replaced, and thinking about a BTM (or delete) and shocks....!
Drain valve repair write-up.
 
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2007 | 01:10 PM
  #7  
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Tenn01PSD350
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From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Sabre2th
Where can I find the Baldwins?
Tom
Dennis at ITP has them for $13. He can probably sell you the whole assembly for about $55 or so.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 06:27 PM
  #8  
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Sabre2th
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From: Marshfield, MO
Thanks!

---------------------------------------------
Black 1999.5 F250SD XLT AUTO 4x4 reg. cab(6/99), Pre-pump & Tank Mods, Racor Filter/Separator, HX Mod, ZooDad, WW, Power-pedal Mod, Pop-up gooseneck ball,Brush Guard, 3.5" lift, BFG Commercial AT tires (265/75), 65hp ATS chip, and #2 cologne. Ball joints replaced, and thinking about a BTM (or delete) and shocks....!

Drain valve repair write-up.
 
Reply
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