Pre-Pump Filtration - Questions re Best Practices
#1
Pre-Pump Filtration - Questions re Best Practices
First off, the question I pose a little further down only applies to those who are currently running (or have run in the past) a pre-pump fuel filter.
I've been running the Baldwin pre-pump filtration setup (from ITP / Sinister / Strictly Diesel) for about 3 years now on my F250, and am happy with the fact that I've had ZERO problems with the system. I am now re-investigating the mod after having just gone through a plugged inline screen on my Excursion. In the past, I had thought that my next effort on this mod would be to install a clear bowl Racor setup, but I really don't want to spend those dollars given the success of the much cheaper Baldwin system on my F250.
Here is what I've come up against in my own thought process, and I've never seen it addressed by anyone who is running one of these systems (Baldwin, Dahl, AirDog, Racor, FASS, etc.)...
How often (if ever) do you drain your pre-pump filter to check for water contamination?
In all honesty, I've changed the filter once yearly with no operational issues whatsoever, but have never even thought about draining it periodically to check for water contamination. After all, the BF1212 element I'm using is a fuel filter/water separator built as a single unit. If it separates water, and we ALL know that diesel ALWAYS has just a little bit of water in it, then I SHOULD be draining/checking periodically... RIGHT?
I've been running the Baldwin pre-pump filtration setup (from ITP / Sinister / Strictly Diesel) for about 3 years now on my F250, and am happy with the fact that I've had ZERO problems with the system. I am now re-investigating the mod after having just gone through a plugged inline screen on my Excursion. In the past, I had thought that my next effort on this mod would be to install a clear bowl Racor setup, but I really don't want to spend those dollars given the success of the much cheaper Baldwin system on my F250.
Here is what I've come up against in my own thought process, and I've never seen it addressed by anyone who is running one of these systems (Baldwin, Dahl, AirDog, Racor, FASS, etc.)...
How often (if ever) do you drain your pre-pump filter to check for water contamination?
In all honesty, I've changed the filter once yearly with no operational issues whatsoever, but have never even thought about draining it periodically to check for water contamination. After all, the BF1212 element I'm using is a fuel filter/water separator built as a single unit. If it separates water, and we ALL know that diesel ALWAYS has just a little bit of water in it, then I SHOULD be draining/checking periodically... RIGHT?
#2
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Damon (South East Texas)
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First off, the question I pose a little further down only applies to those who are currently running (or have run in the past) a pre-pump fuel filter.
I've been running the Baldwin pre-pump filtration setup (from ITP / Sinister / Strictly Diesel) for about 3 years now on my F250, and am happy with the fact that I've had ZERO problems with the system. I am now re-investigating the mod after having just gone through a plugged inline screen on my Excursion. In the past, I had thought that my next effort on this mod would be to install a clear bowl Racor setup, but I really don't want to spend those dollars given the success of the much cheaper Baldwin system on my F250.
Here is what I've come up against in my own thought process, and I've never seen it addressed by anyone who is running one of these systems (Baldwin, Dahl, AirDog, Racor, FASS, etc.)...
How often (if ever) do you drain your pre-pump filter to check for water contamination?
In all honesty, I've changed the filter once yearly with no operational issues whatsoever, but have never even thought about draining it periodically to check for water contamination. After all, the BF1212 element I'm using is a fuel filter/water separator built as a single unit. If it separates water, and we ALL know that diesel ALWAYS has just a little bit of water in it, then I SHOULD be draining/checking periodically... RIGHT?
I've been running the Baldwin pre-pump filtration setup (from ITP / Sinister / Strictly Diesel) for about 3 years now on my F250, and am happy with the fact that I've had ZERO problems with the system. I am now re-investigating the mod after having just gone through a plugged inline screen on my Excursion. In the past, I had thought that my next effort on this mod would be to install a clear bowl Racor setup, but I really don't want to spend those dollars given the success of the much cheaper Baldwin system on my F250.
Here is what I've come up against in my own thought process, and I've never seen it addressed by anyone who is running one of these systems (Baldwin, Dahl, AirDog, Racor, FASS, etc.)...
How often (if ever) do you drain your pre-pump filter to check for water contamination?
In all honesty, I've changed the filter once yearly with no operational issues whatsoever, but have never even thought about draining it periodically to check for water contamination. After all, the BF1212 element I'm using is a fuel filter/water separator built as a single unit. If it separates water, and we ALL know that diesel ALWAYS has just a little bit of water in it, then I SHOULD be draining/checking periodically... RIGHT?
#3
Dahl 100 in mine. Clear bowl allows me to see water if I had it.
Drain it once-in-a-while, but usually only when needing some fuel as solvent.
Have never found any water, at all! We must have some dry fuel out here.
Beyond the bulk handling of the fuel before pumping it into your truck, fullness of your tank, average relative humidity of the air, and temperature swings to condense the moisture, play a big part in what you'll find.
Pop
Drain it once-in-a-while, but usually only when needing some fuel as solvent.
Have never found any water, at all! We must have some dry fuel out here.
Beyond the bulk handling of the fuel before pumping it into your truck, fullness of your tank, average relative humidity of the air, and temperature swings to condense the moisture, play a big part in what you'll find.
Pop
#4
I put a Hastings filter/water sep on mine about 6 mos. ago & plan on draining some fuel out 2 or 3 times a year.
I really do not know if that's too often or not but I don't see how it can hurt. I just drained some a couple of weeks ago when I did an oil change & didn't have any water that I could see in a glass jar.
JMO but if I was doing a lot of traveling to different parts of the country getting fuel from several diff places I'd probably do it a little more often, that maybe a little goffey but that's just me.
I really do not know if that's too often or not but I don't see how it can hurt. I just drained some a couple of weeks ago when I did an oil change & didn't have any water that I could see in a glass jar.
JMO but if I was doing a lot of traveling to different parts of the country getting fuel from several diff places I'd probably do it a little more often, that maybe a little goffey but that's just me.
#5
I use the same pre-pump filter that you do Pete (Baldwin BF1212) for a few years...Never once have I found any water when I have drained the Baldwin filter into a jar or when I have checked the filter at the engine. Course I am out here in the desert and relative humidity probably averages around 8% and I buy fuel from at a major truck stop in Reno.
#6
#7
OK, then all of you guys' experience is consistent with the fact that it simply has not been a matter of discussion on the forum. I'm going to start checking periodically, but will continue to not worry about the issue unnecessarily. I am also using a fuel additive which causes any moisture to become emulsified so that it will simply pass through the combustion chamber and not buildup in the tank. I'll see what I find, and if I find anything other than what you guys have expressed, I'll start looking for a new fuel station.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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#8
OK, then all of you guys' experience is consistent with the fact that it simply has not been a matter of discussion on the forum. I'm going to start checking periodically, but will continue to not worry about the issue unnecessarily. I am also using a fuel additive which causes any moisture to become emulsified so that it will simply pass through the combustion chamber and not buildup in the tank. I'll see what I find, and if I find anything other than what you guys have expressed, I'll start looking for a new fuel station.
Thanks.
Thanks.
"Do not use any fuel additive containing alcohol or ones that would allow water to pass through the fuel system to be burned off in the cylinders. The tolerances of the fuel injectors are so precise that this could cause damage and failure of the injectors from the lack of lubrication..."
It would seem that, if anything, addtives with de-emulsifiers (Howe's, as an example) would be preferable IF the primary purpose was keeping water out of the fuel injectors. From the Stanadyne additive website (I think this is the recommended additive by Ford for the 7.3, correct?):
Helps Remove Water - special water demulsifier causes tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/water separator can be more effective.
Alcohol Free - avoids corrosion and accelerated wear.
#9
I hadn't given the subject much thought, as I haven't encountered water, but water is water is water when passing through the engine.
Yes, it would certainly be more damaging if not emulsified, but I'd think if it could be separated out without added emulsifiers, all the better.
I don't believe that I would use them myself, and would seek a higher-volume fuel supplier if water was a problem.
I suspect Neal's OTR-owners' policy about what goes in a tank has been developed over a long period with a lot of research and practical experience.
I'd think that is "best practice".
Pop
Yes, it would certainly be more damaging if not emulsified, but I'd think if it could be separated out without added emulsifiers, all the better.
I don't believe that I would use them myself, and would seek a higher-volume fuel supplier if water was a problem.
I suspect Neal's OTR-owners' policy about what goes in a tank has been developed over a long period with a lot of research and practical experience.
I'd think that is "best practice".
Pop
#10
I hadn't given the subject much thought, as I haven't encountered water, but water is water is water when passing through the engine.
Yes, it would certainly be more damaging if not emulsified, but I'd think if it could be separated out without added emulsifiers, all the better.
I don't believe that I would use them myself, and would seek a higher-volume fuel supplier if water was a problem.
I suspect Neal's OTR-owners' policy about what goes in a tank has been developed over a long period with a lot of research and practical experience.
I'd think that is "best practice".
Pop
Yes, it would certainly be more damaging if not emulsified, but I'd think if it could be separated out without added emulsifiers, all the better.
I don't believe that I would use them myself, and would seek a higher-volume fuel supplier if water was a problem.
I suspect Neal's OTR-owners' policy about what goes in a tank has been developed over a long period with a lot of research and practical experience.
I'd think that is "best practice".
Pop
#11
#12
Not my intention...I have done a lot of reading since I first posted about "to emulsify, or not to emulsify...that is the question" and it seems that nearly all manufacturers of diesel engines suggest or state that de-emulsification is the way to go with modern "water stripper" filters. Ford obviously is on the de-emulsification side of the issue (seeing they spec Stanadyne additive), but I sure would want a water-stripper filter before the fuel pump and why didn't they install one from the factory? Is this an example of the engineer saying "do it" and the bean-counter saying "NO"? I can see in heavy-trucks covering 500-1000 miles per day where this issue is clear-cut...don't let any water reach the pump or injectors! BTW, the water stripping agent in these filters is silicone. All the heavy trucks I drive use a centrifuge filter to remove water/contaminants...effective, but costly.
#13
#14
This article discusses the pass-through: Filtration + Separation - Fuel filtration: Protecting the diesel engine
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I also run the Balwin and drain it occasionally. Draining has yielded some debris and a bit of water, very small amounts of both. Recently switched my boat over to a clear bowl racor that fit the existing filter head. I really like having the bowl and would definitely go that route on the truck if there was a clear bowl filter that would fit the ITP-supplied head.
#15
Not my intention...I have done a lot of reading since I first posted about "to emulsify, or not to emulsify...that is the question" and it seems that nearly all manufacturers of diesel engines suggest or state that de-emulsification is the way to go with modern "water stripper" filters. Ford obviously is on the de-emulsification side of the issue (seeing they spec Stanadyne additive), but I sure would want a water-stripper filter before the fuel pump and why didn't they install one from the factory? Is this an example of the engineer saying "do it" and the bean-counter saying "NO"? I can see in heavy-trucks covering 500-1000 miles per day where this issue is clear-cut...don't let any water reach the pump or injectors! BTW, the water stripping agent in these filters is silicone. All the heavy trucks I drive use a centrifuge filter to remove water/contaminants...effective, but costly.
I feel pretty comfortable with what I've got now, like you I bet there were quite a few "bean-counter" deals on our trucks. The dead head fuel sys jumps out at me also