OK, I'm usually extremely verbose but I'll make this as short as I can.

Early 1999 250 PSD (build Date: 6/98)

My new diesel mechanic suggested I write the forum with my/our experience today.

I have a certified ASE diesel mechanic in the neighborhood and I thought I'd try him out on some simple stuff: AutoMeter Gauge pod install, HP Crossover pipe - SS of course, and an overboost regulator (in anticipation of a DP Tuner).

Pulled my 6637 filter, 4" joiner pipe and the 20" snorkel. Pulled the turbo outlet intercooler pipe for more room to work on the X-over. One look at the turbo blades down the CCV-Turbo adapter showed some wear on the leading edge of the blades and a rounding of the lower leading-edge corner which should be sharp. Obviously some wear.

The CCV-Turbo adapter is removed exposing a more clear view of the turbo input. Wow, is it ever worn down! Looks like someone has taken sandpaper to the blades - rounded and shiny smooth. Inspection of end play was okay but side play indicated some looseness (wobble).

We had a look at the rubber boot that goes inbetween the turbo and the CCV adapter and ON THE UNDERSIDE of the boot was a 2-1/4" crack about 1/2" from the turbo end that had obviously been there a very long time. The edges were rounded and the interior of the crack were smooth as having been sand blasted over a long period of time.

I'll have a new boot in tomorrow ($70), but I wanted to pass this along to the forum because this may be something that is overlooked in a standard, routine inspection. The Ford dealership I ordered the part from said they had only sold one of the in the past 6 months - quite infrequent.

I'm wondering if more owners might have this crack but don't know of its existence.

Anyway - for what it's worth - I pass it along. Something to check for.

 

If you wouldn't have needed it so soon, i could have given you mine, for free. It's sitting on my shelf doing no good here. I have heard of that only one other time. I would replace the compressor wheel with a Wicked wheel from www.xtremediesel.com for $60, and then get an oil analysis on the engine oil, to see if the engine has injested any bad things.

 

May I PM you, Kris?

 

A friend at work had 01 F250 the same thing happen to him but he didn't find it till it got really sick and I am sorry to say instead of fixing it he traded on a dddddddd ddd ah shucks I just can't say that here .

Dave

 

What do you expect? - that rubbers likely 9 or 10 years old!

I dunno - but the last time my missus fried a trubo diesel engine beyond recognition - it was when a 10 year old heater pipe burst and the she drove it till it stopped even tho the red overheat light was on and the temp gauge was in the red!

(Never underestimate a woman on a mission to get home whos bustin for a pee!).

You know - I'd just replaced ALL the rubber on that engine except that VERY piece a heater pipe! I assumed (wrongly) that the heater only gets used in winter (this was heat of summer) and that there would be no water or water pressure in that hose since the heater was off, and that it only got used half as much as all the rest of the rubber because the heater only ever gets used in winter, not summer so would wear out twice as long as the rest of the raditor hoses etc!

I wasn't able to get a new piece thru the dealer at the time, and it was a twisty fancy shape I couldn't easily replicate with standard rubber hose pipe without kinking it!

Wrong assumtion and it cost over 6 grand to rebuild that engine after the wifes "big cookout!".

You know on gassers - it's usually the electrics give up or rubber hoses and belts and it always starts around 9 or 10 years from new!

Same with diesels except largely the electrics side of it ain't as critical (OK CPS EXcepted) - but rubber comes from a rubber tree and it perishes with heat and time... you don't have 10 year ol elastic rubber bands laying around the house that aren't perished beyond use - do you!

If you have a 98 or 99 build PSD - surely by now (2007) you'd be thinking "gee, maybe it's time i repleaced everything critical thats made a rubber on this engine!"...

How long does the manufacturer specify to change a rubber timing belt? Every 60,000 miles or 3 years whichever is the shorter...
So if they have changed a rubber timing belt 3 times in 9 years - you don't think a rubber boot might be about shot after 9 or 10?

Sorry but to me this is a "No Brainer!"...
Just about everything on a diesel is 'bullet proof' except rubber components!

Maybe it's a very timely heads up to all the early F truck owners!

Cheers!

 

Some times no brainers are the most overlooked. I think it is called a brain-fart? Thanks for the info.

 

Think again. Those UVC harnesses have been known to fail even quicker than that, along with the connection clips.

 

You're absolutely right, Tenn - we had a long chat about the UVC harness as well. All of that will get replaced along with GPs when we replace the turbo.

I wish I had a defense here as I am somewhat embarrassed about it all - Yes, I knopw that rubber gets old - so do people. And although I was a helluva mechanic in the late 60s - I've not done much in the last 30 years so I guess I've lost some of thos cognitive and diagnostic skills.

This is my first diesel and I feel really fortunate to have found this mechanic. What should have been a relatively short 4 or 5 hour day given what I had for him to do...turned out to be 12 hours because I was asking alot of questions and he was more than willing to teach me. While he worked I was making a list of everything in the way of TLC items that should be done to the truck beyond the owner's manual in order to protect the investment. You know - little things like a trans cooler, changing coolant, diff inspections, CHANGING OUT ALL RUBBER PARTS, etc.

Today we're replacing the TC and will give the tranny a good checkout, flush and service. While we're there we'll have a good look at the flex plate and check out a small oil leak.

Next week is Hutch & Harpoon.

In the meantime, I'm in search of a turbo assembly. Can anyone suggest a few places to start on the internet or maybe a dealer or two? The one that's on the truck now is an Allied/Garrett stock. I'd like to go back with the same.

You guys are great and I deserve the slaps especially when it comes to "no-brainers". I'm learning how to take care of the beast but it's a slow and sometimes expensive process ($$$).