I've searched thru 3 pages of related threads, but can't find the answer. How does the pushrod separate from the clutch master cyl??? Does it just pull straight out? I don't see any clip or setscrew, etc.
Mine snapped in half, and I want to just replace the pushrod, if possible, rather than the whole master cyl.

This is on a 1990 F250 5-speed.

Any help?

 

Yours is probably a ZF but I think it uses the same arrangement as my 95 w/ the Mazda. There's a C clip in there (around the rod) that releases the whole rod/piston assembly. I found mine in the floorboard one day... It turned out to be easier to remove the cylinder than to try and get at that clip with snap ring pliers. iow, you're halfway done replacing the cylinder once you get it to where you can replace the rod. The new cylinder I bought the rod just pushed in and latched... don't think it'd be a good idea but it may be able to be pulled straight out. Looked to me like it would break the housing before it released but not sure, try at your own risk - of $69 for a new cylinder.

 

try to pull on it if i dont give then there is a clip in there so id just replace the hole thing. that way i wouldt worrie about it leaking when i put it back together.

 

I have the Mazda trans, sorry for not including that info.

I bought a replacement master cyl at Pep Boys, and I could then see how the ball on the end of the pushrod clicks into the socket in the MC. There's three fingers in there told lock it in. Looks like if I could jamb a thin tube in there, it would release all three fingers, like the disconnect at the slave cyl.

I took off that snap ring, thinking it would allow the pushrod to release, but it holds the cylinder in. Doing that let air into the system, so I guess I should go ahead and install the new MC as well. I wish I could keep using my original MC, it's cast aluminum, and the new one is plastic!

New question is, how to disconnect the hydraulic line off the back of the MC? Is it just pushed over a ribbed or barbed fitting, or is there some sort of key? It looks like there might be a pencil-lead size key locking it in. The new MC does not have any fitting to slide the line over, so I somehow re-use the old one?

Thanks for the help so far!

 

The plastic tube at the clutch master cylinder end has a small roll pin that needs to be pressed/pushed out, then you can pull the hose off.

The end of the plastic tube has a sort of groove in it. That's how the roll pin keeps you from pulling the tube off. I think there may also be a rubber washer on the end of the tube.

I've used channel locks a small nail and a small socket to push the pin out. You may also try a small pin punch and tap it out. Another set of hands makes it easier.

If you can't get the pin out, take the hose off at the trans end, remove some retainer clips holding the tube in place and pull the unit out so you can work on it.

 

Don't try to just pull the pushrod out. It will bend the little fingers and ruin the unit.

 

Good info. I will work on this after work today. Thanks.

 

Okay, I got the hydraulic line off the old MC, and hooked up to the new MC. Pushrod is connected to the clutch pedal, poured some fluid in, and did a little gravity bleed. Now I just need a someone to come over and help do a real bleed, hopefully tomorrow.

Any tricks/tips in bleeding?

 

Just pump the pedal and find a 2x4 and wedge it between the clutch pedal and the seat. Could put a flat board at the seat so the 2x4 doesn't dig into the seat. Crawl under the truck and loosen the bleeder valve. Close the valve and pump the pedal again. Keep repeating until you have a good stream of fluid. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to bleed.

Some people forget to remove that black rubber diaphragm before filling the clutch master cylinder and wonder why no fluid comes out of the slave.

 

Easy clutch pushrod removal on my 1993 ranger.
First take a crappy ball point pen ... Likely the crappier /cheaper the better .... Disassemble pen until left with the empty tube ( if you get stuck taking the ink pen apart please take your vehicle to a mechanic)... Slice tube in half so you are left with two half tubes I used my old pocket knife and the cheap pen tube sliced like butter ... Insert one half around p ushrod and push into master cylinder and you should feel it push into place repeat with the remaining half pen tube on opposite side of pushrod and after inserted into place pushrod comes out with very little effort maybe a twist and wiggle ... Just did two back to back no problem whatsoever ... I had such a hard time finding out how to do this online I thought I would share my findings ...

Not the actual one i use .. But one i quickly made while posting thats why it looks so ragety but this one would probably do just fine !

 

with the advice I got here I’m happy to say: I successfully removed the broken pushrod so I don’t have to remove/replace & bleed a new clutch MC. Took me all day and many attempts with different materials but I did it!. Here’s photo’s of what worked and what didn’t. I had no lock with soft or hard plastic, may be the thickness that was key. When making my successful tool, was aluminum & had to double it up for strength while keeping the thickness small. BTW,- 95 F-150 4.9 LTR Eddie Bauer Edition

 

I’m gonna go find a pen to cut in half or something round so I can do this. Going to put a different push rod in the master cylinder so I can use a later master cylinder on an earlier 87 F250 that I swapped a ZF into. Thanks for your help!

 

I tried to do the pen trick and I could not get it to work no matter what so I bought a pre-bled unit from Napa and it took me 10 minutes to change everything out AND perform the heim joint mod for the clutch pushrod to eliminate the plastic clip which I've replaced twice in 40k miles.

 

I just use the trick, but in my master cylinder, there’s two tabs one at the top and one at the bottom. My master cylinder was brand new, but I needed to change to a longer push rod so this save me from having to re-bleed my whole system, and waste money.