I'm kind of new to these trucks so my ?'s might be common knowlage to most.....

I'm going to be getting a F-100 with I-beams the truck is about 64,65 I think. It has the factory V8 not sure of the size. I also have a 72 LTD Brougham that I would like to swap the motor and tranny into the truck, it's a 429/C6. If yall have any tips or tricks let me know.

Thanks,
rollinlow&slow

 

If it has I beams it is a 65 or later. Stock V8 for 65 was a 352 or possibly a 390. The swap is very doable I just don't racall if you have to remove a crossmember or not. My 61 had mounts on the bellhousing and no tranny crossmember. I had to remove the bellhousing crossmember and mounts then fabricate a transmission crossmember. I'm running a 302/C6. You may need the engine mounts from a later truck that had a 460. Welcome to FTE. Somebody that has actually done this swap will chime in I'm sure.

 

I did this swap, a 460/C-6 into my '66 F-100.
To do this swap properly, you'll need the following truck 385 parts that will not come with a car 385:
1. Three piece cross-bolted motor perches and mounts, from a truck '73 - '79 with a 460. One bolts to the frame, one bolts to the engine, and the rubber piece is in between. Your '65 frame will have the holes already pre-drilled. These are not easy to find, but are important to properly position the engine and transmission in the engine bay, and are very critical to keep the engine from rolling over when the powerful torque rips the rubber mounts loose.
2. The external kickdown rod and shift linkage. The car linkage is not shaped correctly for the truck, and will not work. Any truck C-6 linkage '68 - '79 will work. (If you go with a floor shifter, this won't be necessary.)
3. You'll need the correct automatic steering column, from a '68 - '79. Up to '72 is the best. (If you go with a floor shifter, this won't be necessary.)
You may want to read up on converting these trucks to power steering with an automatic column, to save money and time in the long run.
4. The INTERNAL shift lever for a TRUCK C-6. Any truck C-6 '68 - '79 internal shift rod will do - and it is easy to change. No special tools needed. (If you go with a floor shifter, this won't be necessary.)
5. Your driveline will need to be custom made. GET THE TRANSMISSION YOKE and the DRIVESHAFT from the Lincoln. You probably can use the driveshaft in your truck, and have it shortened. If so, it will save you a LOT of time and money.

You'll also need to modify the following parts:
1. The accelerator linkage bracket that bolts to the 385 intake uses a rod instead of a cable. The FE one (currently in the truck) won't bolt to the 385 intake, so you'll need to do a little cutting and drilling to combine the two. It will take about an hour or less, and will be obvious once you see it.
2. Possibly, the way the accessories are mounted may interfere with the engine in the engine bay. If you have the round A/C compressor mounted on the lower right (drivers' side), you may have problems.
3. Exhaust, of course will be diffferent.

Other benefits:
1. You can use the PS pump on the Lincoln to drive a Ford truck PS gearbox, but you'll need to have the correct steering column (if you are using an automatic steering column), and the pressure hose will need to be custom made, most likely.
2. Same with the A/C compressor.
3. You can use the existing radiator just fine, assuming it is a V-8 radiator in good shape.

Possible things to think about:
1. Check the head casting numbers. If they are D-2VE, then you should consider replacing them with D3VE heads. The D2 heads are notorious for detonation problems. See the 385 forum for more details.
2. Consider putting in an RV camshaft with a straight up timing gear and chain set.
3. Consider putting in power steering with the engine out.
4. If you are not given to driving sedately, I STRONGLY recommend you put disc brakes on FIRST. You'll need them.

 

So I need the motor mounts for a 460 from 73to79 truck and the disk brake conversion from said 73to79 truck. Do I need to make a tranny crossmember or no? I don't mind puting a floor shift in it and P/S is an option at a later date (I'm 24 I can turn it). anything other than that? Are these trucks 6v or 12v?

 

You got the message loud and clear!

If you can find a donor '73 - '79 truck with a bad 460 or bad transmission (most all from the factory were automatic C-6s) , you can harvest all the parts you need for power steering, power disc brakes, the motor mounts and everything.
Best of all, it all is almost completely bolt-up, too, with only minor modifications.

Then, you can sell the rest!

This is exactly what I did.

Anothe possibility that others hav found very successful is to put your '65 body on the '70s frame, which would be easier in the long run - but only if you have the entire truck to start with.
I didn't choose this path because I wanted to do it a piece at a time.

Ford Boy Pete ought to chime in here soon, I hope!

 

banjopicker thanks for the info you gave me it was very helpful but I have a few more questions.

How hard is it to put the 65 body on the 70's frame? (ie: bodymounts and total length)

 

Tis a direct bolt hole bolt up for the cab and front clip. In 73 the chassis was extended by 4 inches under the bed. FordboyPete says this can be fudged out, but the worst thing is you may have to cut a little off the rear of the chassis rails.

John

 

that sounds like pie work! (that will come back and bite me in the butt now that I said it)

does anybody have any other words of wisdom for me.

 

Sit down and make a plan. Decide what you want in a finished project.

We can help you with about anything you want to build as long as it's Ford.

John

 

I think I may have found another one lastnight for a couple hunderd bucks I got to go look at it in the next few days, it prolby has the 6 in it but its in better shape than the other one with the V8.

I never had any dealings with the V8's that came in these trucks, would it make a good motor to just rebuild? I'm popping ideas around in my head since I found this site.

 

Cobraguy said that the engine is a 352 or 390 how can I tell them apart?

 

This is a repeat of a post I did earlier; I hope you enjoy it and find it useful to boot: The only way to distinguish the different FE motors is to check the stroke. All FE motors look the same on the outside - except the crossbolted 427s, and those are pretty rare.

Be careful here. You have uncovered one of Ford's greatest mysteries! 352s and 360s are indistiguishable on the outside from a 390. The plain and less than desireable 352s and 360s have an eerie and mystifying ability, a phenomenon not yet scientifically understood. They say there are unknown forces moving about in the vicinity of FE motors. You see, the night before sale day, these evil things, some impish, some brutish, all descend upon their intended victim - the FE doomed for SALE! These forces know not the effect of the work that they do, nor can they explain how they do it, it is so dark and fearful a thing. Using powers utterly unknown to mankind, these ghouls of the garage perform a mighty transmogrification! YES! IT WORKS! And the lowly 352 and the shortchanged but stout little 360 are transmogrified into the RADIANT and MIGHTY 390! However, the effect wears off during the first night after the SALE is completed, and the transmogrified ones revert to their former dull selves. Of course the powers used have only the 30-30 guarantee: 30 feet or 30 seconds, whichever comes first. Unfortunately, once you get it home your MIGHTY SUPER HERO 390 deflates to an underdog.
ppptthhpphptphpptphpthphtpthh. ppth.
(Research to capture this process to make it permanent without having to rebuild the poor things is ongoing, but efforts to date have been fruitless. It is rumored that the Mechanics' Engine Rebuilders of Canada "MERCs" has interfered with the testing laboratories, believing the discovery will cost jobs, but no proof is yet forthcoming. Details at 11.)

Seriously.
Here's the easy way to check the stroke without removing the head. Get a straight 12 inch piece of white electrical house wire or coat hanger wire. Get a magic marker. Remove the number 1 spark plug. Turn the engine over until the timing mark is at TDC. Now, put the wire in the number 1 spark plug hole with the wire resting on the top of the piston. (Because the old timing dampers sometimes will slip, the timing marks may be off. Make sure the engine is at TDC in the Number 1 hole by rocking the crankshaft back a forth a bit. When the wire is as high as it will go, it is at TDC. Once you are sure it is at TDC, continue.) Make a mark on the wire even with the lip on the valve cover. Now rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, until the wire is at its lowest point. Mark the wire again, at the lip, and measure the distance between the two marks.

Here are the specs: 3.98 is the stroke for the 410 and 428 engines; 3.78 is the stroke for the 390, 406 and 427 engines and 3.5 is the stroke for the 352 and 360 engines.