brighter backup lights
I finally fixed the problem completely by installing a PIAA 1500 Reverse Light System. (I did not buy them here, but this is more info, http://www.autobarn.net/pi15baupli.html). These are a great investment.
I installed mine with a different switch, mounted with an LED on the side of the steering column not far from the tilt lever.
The switch allows, "On", "Off" or "Automatic", so they are automatic if the vehicle is placed in reverse. I also put in a relay so they only work when the parking lights are on.
The lamps themselves were installed under the trailer hitch with existing holes. I think there is a pic in my gallery.
Last edited by Matt M, PA; Jan 8, 2007 at 10:18 AM.
About the PIAAs. They came with their own harness. It basically installed from the battery for power, inside for the switch/LED, then to the lights. There also is a connection to the factory back-up lights to automatically turn them on when the truck is placed in reverse. I think I found that wire in the passenger kick panel.
PIAA makes exceptionally good quality lights, and these made all the difference in the world.Again, I wired mine with a relay so they only work when the parking lights are on. They also are a help at night if you are hooking up a trailer as you can turn them on with the three way switch even if the truck is not in reverse. (Okay..one more warped note...at night the three way switch also allows you to display them to tailgaters at night.)
http://www.whitenight.com/
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They didn't have the plug and go adaptor when I bought mine, but it wired up VERY easily splicing into the factory trailer wire harness (keep in mind my wiring skills are remedial, at best). The adaptor looks easier but I think it would be an eye-sore sticking out of the plug all the time.
For the factory 7 pin plug on the Exc, I did have to move it (rotate actually) on my 2000 Limited. The lights mount on the reciever without moving the 7 pin, but I couldn't plug in trailer light into the 7 pin because there wasn't enough clearance.
So, instead of buying a relocator bracket, I got up under the truck, loosened the bolt holding the wiring bracket on, then bent the back corner of the bracket edge so I could rotate the bracket clockwise to gain clearance to plug in the trailer lights. <- that sentence made sense in my head and hopefully when you look under the truck it'll make sense to you too! If it's not clear I could take a pic of it.
Another thing, I don't ever remove my receiver tongue on my truck, I have it locked on there. But if you do remove your receiver tongue when not in use it could be a bit of a pain. Everything is very tight back there and you can't see what your doing behind the back-up lights when you put the pin in. Safety chain eye-lets are similar, you are hooking them up by feel since you can't see the holes anymore but it's not a big deal.
Hope that helps
BTW, do you have it configured with a separate on/off switch, i presume so .. and does it work when in reverse regardess of the position of the on/off switch (seems like that would be tougher to accomplish)
Off - completely
On - when truck is in reverse
Other On - light's always on when truck is running
I keep it the position that turns on when the truck is in reverse. But when I'm unloading the trailer or need light, just flip the switch to the 'other' on position. I kinda wish I could switch it on while driving for tailgaters, but I'd just get in trouble with the local revenuers so it's probably best that I can't!
As for the hassle of hitch pins and safety chains, it's not a big deal once you know where everything is by 'feel', but the first couple of times you may need to get down there to see what you're doing.



