drive axle
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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drive axle
how do you know if you have front or rear locking differential? i own a 1998 explorer E.B. and am looking to add friction modifier #M2C118-A, or is it safe just to add in both front and rear. also is it possible to repack wheel bearings? thanks in advance.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
you dont have a limit slip in the front, no friction modifier is needed. you can add a 7 ounce tube from Auto Zone to the rear, it cant hurt. The front axle bearings are sealed, can not be lubed. your rear axle is lubed by the alxe oil.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 2
From: UT
Calling the stock Trac lock a locker is a bit of misnomer. It's a basic clutch type LS.
Identification can be done by looking at the "axle" identifier on the door jamb sticker. I don't know all the codes, but they are posted on the internet. It seems like the stock LS codes all start with D.
Alternatively, there should be a little metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts. On the second row of that tag will be a number that represents your gear ratio (3 73 for example). If the decimal is blank, then you have an open carrier. If there is an L there (3L73), then you have an trac-lock.
If you do have a trac-lock, recognize that those clutches don't last forever. Mine were gone before 130K miles. After the clutches are worn out, it really doesn't matter if you add the FM or not. Also, if the clutches are worn out, then it might be worth the effort to rebuild the trac-lock while you have the diff opened up. Standard test is to jack up one wheel, transmission in neutral, and measure the torque needed to spin the raised wheel with the other on the ground. If the clutches are still good, it should take at least 20 ft-lbs of torque to spin the wheel. If it takes less, then your clutches aren't upt to par.
Identification can be done by looking at the "axle" identifier on the door jamb sticker. I don't know all the codes, but they are posted on the internet. It seems like the stock LS codes all start with D.
Alternatively, there should be a little metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts. On the second row of that tag will be a number that represents your gear ratio (3 73 for example). If the decimal is blank, then you have an open carrier. If there is an L there (3L73), then you have an trac-lock.
If you do have a trac-lock, recognize that those clutches don't last forever. Mine were gone before 130K miles. After the clutches are worn out, it really doesn't matter if you add the FM or not. Also, if the clutches are worn out, then it might be worth the effort to rebuild the trac-lock while you have the diff opened up. Standard test is to jack up one wheel, transmission in neutral, and measure the torque needed to spin the raised wheel with the other on the ground. If the clutches are still good, it should take at least 20 ft-lbs of torque to spin the wheel. If it takes less, then your clutches aren't upt to par.
