What is a heated intake, and what good does it do, and if i do need one were can i get one.

Thanks

Daniel

 

Im guessing you want an aftermarket intake that is heated. The offenhauser dual port and c series both have a spot on the bottom to accept the stock exhaust manifold for heat it you want that. The newer clifford intakes have a heated passage that uses coolant to heat the intake. I used a heated carb spacer from a mid 1960's t-bird that I got off of ebay for heat. It too uses coolant for heat. Check my gallery under 300 rebuild for pictures of the setup. The whole point of heating the intake is to help fuel vaporization, keep carb ice from forming if you live in colder climates, and to help the engine warm up a bit faster. Any of these intakes can be bought new or on ebay.

 

Seems to me the coolant would be very slow to warm. I would think getting quickly heated air from around the exhaust manifold via the large flexible tube to the air cleaner is much more efficient. JMO.

 

won't the heat of the motor keep the carb for icing

 

Probably not...I've read where some had problems with icing when outside temps get below 40 degrees so they had to use water or exhaust heat to prevent this. Also, one article I read by a gentleman that ran a 4v carb on a slant six had a problem with bog when he switched from a Carter AFB to a Rochester QuadraJet carb and that problem was solved with water heat to create a hot spot under the carb and intake manifold. Also, with the water heat one has a more stable temperature situation for cold climates as well as cooling in hot climates over a strictly exhaust heat set up or no heat at all.

 

Are there any #'s on that Heated Carb Spacer?
I've yet to have luck in locating one that actually fits.

Thank'ee

 

Colonel: Check out the pics here http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39761. With your Offy you can make a plate to bolt to the bottom of the Intake for water heat. I would have done two things different on mine...probably a thicker plate and brass fittings rather than steel but it works.

 

Colonel: With your Offy manifold you can make a plate or block with heater hose fittings that bolts to the bottom of the manifold. (See my pics recently posted on FSP Forum) The only thing I would do different would be to use thicker 3/8" or 1/2" plate and brass fittings rather than the steel plumbing...but it works the way I did it.

 

I don't think that i what to go throw all the hassel of the extra hoses. Plus I am putting in a Headmen Header from LMC Trucks and there is no place to put a hose to heat it. But do they sell a acctuall part for the offy C series for liquid heat in the intake.

Thanks

 

Heres one just like the one I have on mine. I would have to take mine off to get the casting numbers if you would like. I also got mine on Ebay. Here is one that is on ebay right now item number: 130064816859

 

ford-man:
No extra hoses required...just a slight detour in the routing of a heater hose. A gentleman in Canada makes a water heated manifold kit to sell that fits the Offy manifold but it runs about $113.00 mol USD. Much less expensive to make one yourself.

 

I have put much thought into this subject. I was always under the impression that colder intake air meant more power.

Last winter I suffered from 4v carb freeze syndrome. Never had that happen before. Runs like crap with a frozen carb.

I have been trying to divise a design that would be durable and transfer heat to the intake by rerouting the heater hoses and plumbing into some contraption bolted to the bottom of the intake. Being a snowmobiler, I have visions of something similar to the liquid cooled caliper from the mid '90s Polaris sleds. It was basically an aluminum casting that ran water through it in an "S" shaped tube, and it bolted on top of the caliper. Sure would make it drive nicer. If I don't plug the block heater in, it takes forever to heat the manifold so that it runs correctly.

 

The cold intake situation may be desireable for race applications but not worth a darn for street driving.

 

Heated intake air (stovepipe from exhaust) helps prevent carb icing by keeping the venturi temperature above freezing. Most carb icing (at least in aircraft) happens around 40-60F ambient temperature when you actually have humidity in the air. The venturi effect drops the temperature by around 30F to create ice. Hence the stovepipe and thermostatic diverter valve in the air cleaner housing. Cold air in takes are useful for EFI motors and for maximum power. You get much better atomization/efficiency at higher intake temperatures. The same Google searches that turned up the great AFB/Quadrajet slant six article will turn up articles on carb icing as well. I think someone was questioning whether they needed a water-heated intake for racing, and the answer was resoundingly YES.

The manifold heat helps fuel atomization, just like someone said. It's absolutely neccesary. Exhaust heat comes on faster, I think, and the exhaust diverter valve in your stock manifold tries to regulate it. Coolant heat is just as good, if not better during driving due to the strict regulation. Suffer a little first thing on a cold morning to have much more consistent carburetion. You're letting your engine warm up a little anyways, right?

I found a forum posting a year or two ago (not FTE) about someone with a Dodge pickup and a 360 getting 20mpg in town by permanently forcing his engine to use the exhaust stovepipe, increasing atomization. True or not, experiments will tell, but it's worth consideration, I think.

I plan on running a stovepipe and a heated manifold with my soon-to-be electric choke carb and Offy intake.

 

So I am thinking about building a contraption to bolt to the bottom of my Offy d-port to run coolant through. I keep my block heater plugged in at night to make the cold start wear and tear a bit easier. the intake would be warmer and it would run like a champ right off the bat.

I think I have mounted my Holley-junk backwards on this manifold. The primaries are facing the the fender well. I need to find a much longer throttle cable.