Serious panic time
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: SE of Bennett Colorado
Serious panic time
89 F250, 460/7.5, C6 Auto
Okay, I'm freaking out here. I'm trying to get the rear seal out of the block.
I've loosened all the cap bolts. I've tried tapping the seal out-n-around with no luck; in fact I've schredded one end with so much 'tapping'.
Maybe the crankshaft hasn't fallen even though I've loosened all the cap bolts? The piston walls show some wear/rust since this beast has 155,000+ miles on it. Maybe those pistions won't 'slide' down to allow the crankshaft to fall? (The truck ran fine prior to this project)
God I hope this doesn't mean a tranny drop and the whole mess of basically rebuilding the thing. I don't think I have the experiance, patience or tools for that disaster.
Help! I'm about to slap the 'good' lower half up and leave the old seal in the block!
Okay, I'm freaking out here. I'm trying to get the rear seal out of the block.
I've loosened all the cap bolts. I've tried tapping the seal out-n-around with no luck; in fact I've schredded one end with so much 'tapping'.
Maybe the crankshaft hasn't fallen even though I've loosened all the cap bolts? The piston walls show some wear/rust since this beast has 155,000+ miles on it. Maybe those pistions won't 'slide' down to allow the crankshaft to fall? (The truck ran fine prior to this project)
God I hope this doesn't mean a tranny drop and the whole mess of basically rebuilding the thing. I don't think I have the experiance, patience or tools for that disaster.
Help! I'm about to slap the 'good' lower half up and leave the old seal in the block!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,734
Likes: 38
From: Sunny Florida
The two piece seals have a metal wire in them. Try to push on the metal part and it should come around the crank end and out of the block. Can you take a pic of what you're trying to do? It may help in guiding you along.
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From: SE of Bennett Colorado
Well I've tried tapping it out with a punch and no luck.
I still think the crankshaft hasn't fallen. Maybe that is what is 'holding on' to the seal?
Here is a pic of the upper seal (in the block around the crank) that I need to get out. By the way, the right side/end is now 'shredded' from me tapping on it so long and so hard.
I still think the crankshaft hasn't fallen. Maybe that is what is 'holding on' to the seal?
Here is a pic of the upper seal (in the block around the crank) that I need to get out. By the way, the right side/end is now 'shredded' from me tapping on it so long and so hard.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Fort Worth,Texas
Hi grizz3000,
You might try making a puntch from some hard aluminum or brass that fits pretty tightin the gasket grove. this will maximise your impact area on your seal. Whem you use a round punch it will fray and swell like the end you have ben hitting.
Have you gotten the half out of the cap? this would give you an easey place to meshure the grove to make your puntch.
Good luck
Bill
You might try making a puntch from some hard aluminum or brass that fits pretty tightin the gasket grove. this will maximise your impact area on your seal. Whem you use a round punch it will fray and swell like the end you have ben hitting.
Have you gotten the half out of the cap? this would give you an easey place to meshure the grove to make your puntch.
Good luck
Bill
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Virginia Beach
Yeah, I doubt that thats coming out like that 
Have you dropped your tranny yet? I saw in previous thread your tranny was still hooked up, and since that end of the crank is fastened to the TC, will it even drop???
When I disassemble my 460 block for rebuild, that seal was in there good and tight. Thick steel wire coated in rubber was a tight "press" fit into the block. Thats a LOT of friction to overcome driving it like that. If you can manage to drop that end of the crank an 1/8" or so, you can use a small (think Jewlers) flat head screw driver to pop one or both ends of the seal out of its bore. Then take some copper house wring, flatten one end of it and try and work it in between the seal and engine block to break it lose. You gotta think of peeling that thing out instead of driving it out.
Best of luck!
Have you dropped your tranny yet? I saw in previous thread your tranny was still hooked up, and since that end of the crank is fastened to the TC, will it even drop???When I disassemble my 460 block for rebuild, that seal was in there good and tight. Thick steel wire coated in rubber was a tight "press" fit into the block. Thats a LOT of friction to overcome driving it like that. If you can manage to drop that end of the crank an 1/8" or so, you can use a small (think Jewlers) flat head screw driver to pop one or both ends of the seal out of its bore. Then take some copper house wring, flatten one end of it and try and work it in between the seal and engine block to break it lose. You gotta think of peeling that thing out instead of driving it out.
Best of luck!
Last edited by Franken-Truck; Jan 2, 2007 at 08:41 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,734
Likes: 38
From: Sunny Florida
I did not realize the trans was still attached. You may be able to loosen the convertor bolts to get the crank to drop a bit. Can you even pry on the crank in a safe area to see if it will even move?
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From: SE of Bennett Colorado
SUCCESS!!
I devoted some more time of patient, concentrated tapping on the end of the seal and DOINK, it finally moved out. I grabbed the end that 'came out' with needle nose pliers and worked it out.
Thanks for all you suggestions guys, they weren't in vane.
Whew!
Now I just need to work the new seal in and put this hoss back together.
I devoted some more time of patient, concentrated tapping on the end of the seal and DOINK, it finally moved out. I grabbed the end that 'came out' with needle nose pliers and worked it out.
Thanks for all you suggestions guys, they weren't in vane.
Whew!
Now I just need to work the new seal in and put this hoss back together.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,587
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From: Virginia Beach
Originally Posted by grizz3000
SUCCESS!!
I devoted some more time of patient, concentrated tapping on the end of the seal and DOINK, it finally moved out. I grabbed the end that 'came out' with needle nose pliers and worked it out.
Thanks for all you suggestions guys, they weren't in vane.
Whew!
Now I just need to work the new seal in and put this hoss back together.
I devoted some more time of patient, concentrated tapping on the end of the seal and DOINK, it finally moved out. I grabbed the end that 'came out' with needle nose pliers and worked it out.
Thanks for all you suggestions guys, they weren't in vane.
Whew!
Now I just need to work the new seal in and put this hoss back together.
Let us know how the rest of it goes 
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: SE of Bennett Colorado
Got the new seals back in/on, cap back on, and torqued all the bearing caps down (95 ft lbs). Cleaned all the gasket areas (again).
Went to put the new oil pan in and discovered that I 'encouraged' the old oil pan out more than I thought. The new one ain't going in without more engine rise. Is there any rise left in it? Not quite sure. I May have to take the air intake off.
I discovered a bad power steering hose during this project so I guess added bonuses are nice.
Went to put the new oil pan in and discovered that I 'encouraged' the old oil pan out more than I thought. The new one ain't going in without more engine rise. Is there any rise left in it? Not quite sure. I May have to take the air intake off.
I discovered a bad power steering hose during this project so I guess added bonuses are nice.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,734
Likes: 38
From: Sunny Florida
If you have the motor lifeted in the air then to get a little more room I have loosened the trans mount and jacked the trans up as high as I could and that has helped but I have only done 300 6cyl oil pans.