When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am hoping to gain some help in installing my 406 mated to a C6 into my stock framed 56.
I have a stock type drop axle installed and will be using a reconditioned stock radiator. The engine is a 63 406 block with a cobra jet type oil pan installed.
I thought this would be a very easy install and ordered the tubular engine crossmember and motor mounts from CPP. The mounts fit nicely and the the crossmember is designed to sit on top of the top frame rail and bolted in.
I have included some pictures in my gallery of where I am at to depict what I am going to try and describe.
When I sat the crossmember and engine down on the frame, the bottom edge of the fan fins extend below the radiator cooling fins about 1-3/4 inches. The only way I can get the fan ( 18 inch fan) at least even with the cooling fins is to block the bottom of the crossmember. (I just put wood there for illustration, I would never use wood
I have spoken to CPP and they firmly believe the crossmember is the one made for the 56 and FE installation.
What am I doing wrong? Has anyone else run into this issue? What can I do to not have to mickey mouse this by putting blocks under the crossmember at the frame?
Happy New Year everyone!When I sat the crossmember and engine down on the frame, the bottom edge of the fan fins extend below the radiator cooling fins about 1-3/4 inches.Jeff
Actually this was quite common in Ford trucks, my 76 F150 with a 360 has a shroud that drops down about 2" below the radiator core to make up for the diameter of the fan.
Jeff
I have to say that is normal as far as I remember, but my rememberer isn't what it used to be :-)
I have had several FE's over the years and I seem to recall the same as mechmagcn that the blades stuck out below the bottom of the rad and were covered with the shroud.
The fan on my 55 w/302CID sets the same way about 2 1/2-3 ince
hes below the radiator, I just modified a a shroud from an F150 and have never had any problems its been in there for over 17 years.
Jaye
When I sat the crossmember and engine down on the frame, the bottom edge of the fan fins extend below the radiator cooling fins about 1-3/4 inches. The only way I can get the fan ( 18 inch fan) at least even with the cooling fins is to block the bottom of the crossmember. Jeff
It won't hurt anything if the fan dips an inch or two below the radiator fins as long as it doesn't interfere with the lower hose. You could always go with a smaller diameter fan if it really bothers you, but I'd keep the 18 incher and leave it as is.
electric fans are getting quite common in the salvage yards and on ebay, and are actually more efficient and reliable than the mechanical ones. They pull the same amount of air at any engine speed wheras a mechanical fan may not have enough draw at idle when you need the most cooling and/or work too hard at higher speeds overcooling and creating drag. Hook it up with a thermostatically controlled relay and the engine will warm up quicker especially in colder climates, and will continue running to cool the radiator after the engine is shut off to reduce the risk of boilover.
It sounds like you're committed to using this crossmember and your C6 in the frame, so I won't try to discourage your efforts. Good luck.
But I wanted to point out that there are other methods for doing this. Ford made bellhousings to mount the FE in F-100. If I were trying to mount a sweet 406 in a 56, I wouldn't even think of trying to use frame mounts. The frame of an F-100 looks like it was made to twist just like the Model A and other early Fords. The frame design was part of the suspension.
That's why they designed it with bellhousing mounts; it puts the torque of the engine on the frame where it's braced by the firewall. The front of the engine is mounted (in an F-100) on a single mount in the centerline of the engine in a way that allows the frame to twist without effecting the engine.
The torque of a big 406 would twist that bendy frame every time the throttle was jazzed. I've got at least one of the FE standard shift bellhousings, but it's for a HD trans like the T98. I'm certain that there must be a CruisoMatic type bellhousing that can be converted to an FMX.
I think I will drop the crossmember off the blocks and maybe go with an inch less diameter on the fan, find a shroud to modify, and see what happens. I thought long and hard about the frame flex issues mentioned and the final decision came from my dad's experience. He put a 390 in with boxing plates both front and rear in his 56 and has not had any issues. We'll keep a very close eye on this if I ever get in on the road
I trust you inted to box the frame then?? If so good move.
If you are really worried about whether for fan dropping a couple inches belwo the radiator is a problem, ask the folks on the FE engine forum or on the Slick 60's forum (61-66 model years) to confirm this set-up is correct (and I suspect it is). Like other has stated above, I think you are fine with the arrangement as it is now as long as it doesn't smack a hose.
Another vote for boxing the frame at least back to the tranny crossmember, all the way if planning on dropping the hammer regularly. If racing is in your plans I'd also look at extra stiffening/bracing. Look in the magazines for pics of Heidts or Art Morrison frames for the bracing style I'd recommend. Ford used that same type bracing on the frames they built for their anniversary trucks buildup.
This is just a thought and it might interest you. Why not rebend the outer ends of the tubular crossmember and reweld the mounts to fit the angle. Another option is have a muffler shop bend you one up and cut and reweld the motor mounts on the newly bent X-member. After all, these aftermarket X-members are steel tubing like exhaust systems.
This is just a thought and it might interest you. Why not rebend the outer ends of the tubular crossmember and reweld the mounts to fit the angle. Another option is have a muffler shop bend you one up and cut and reweld the motor mounts on the newly bent X-member. After all, these aftermarket X-members are steel tubing like exhaust systems.
I'd expect, much like the one in mine, the tubing on most is a bit heavier than exhaust tubing and might tax a muffler shop's bender. However a shop that builds roll cages would have a bender that could handle the job as well as a supply of the tubing and the welding expertise to put it all together.
I have the boxing plates on the way from Mid-fiftys. I am going to set it down on the rails after boxing and run a 16 or 17 inch fan with a shroud and see what happens. If it gets too hot then I'll consider another mount or electric fans. If like some say that this set up should be fine for cooling, then it should be fine without all the hassle and expense.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.