Not starting-weird problems..
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
The only thing I can think of that might cause any of this is where I tapped into the ignition power, which was a 4 wire plug under the steering column-this is where the directions
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Spooner
The only thing I can think of that might cause any of this is where I tapped into the ignition power, which was a 4 wire plug under the steering column-this is where the directions said to do it from Ken's Performance. I have checked it over though and all looks fine. I did undo the connection and wired it back to stock with no help.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
It was fuse 19 under the dash-I am not at my shop now and my directions were emailed to me at my shop email that I can't access at home. He didn't say exactly what that went to, but I do know when I accidentally left it unplugged from the harness it triggered the security system and was flashing the 'security' light and wouldn't let me start it, but worked fine when I snapped it back in. Its a 4 wire plug I believe under the steering column-there are three connectors there-this is the right most one. IIRC it was a red with yellow tracer wire.
They are ISSPRO gauges.
They are ISSPRO gauges.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
I had just found it and was fixin to post, FWIW whenever installing electronics on these trucks I never "tap" into power that is associated with and engine function (PCM,IDM)
Here is Fuse 19 under the dash
Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idle Validation Switch, Passive Anti-Theft Module
BTW: that red wire is circuit 361 and is tied to all of the expensive control modules for the engine.
Here is Fuse 19 under the dash
Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idle Validation Switch, Passive Anti-Theft Module
BTW: that red wire is circuit 361 and is tied to all of the expensive control modules for the engine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Spooner
I am finding this out the hard way! Like I said, I just followed directions from Ken's Performance who I bought all the stuff from.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
http://www.kensps.citymaker.com/home.html
I did tap into the dimmer for the lights, but for the boxes for the EGT and Trans Temp I had to get power when the ignition turned on...
I did tap into the dimmer for the lights, but for the boxes for the EGT and Trans Temp I had to get power when the ignition turned on...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Also, the truck DID run when I had all the gauges hooked up. I started it several times as I popped panels back in place making sure a connection didn't get snagged in the A-pillar as everything went back together. Literally 10 minutes later after I cleaned up was when it blew the #19 fuse etc..
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
Something shorted or back fed voltage somewhere, Now to find it. Can you recieve emails now at the address you PM'me. I can send you the CJB abd BJB juse panel printouts
For starters under the hood swap the PCM Diode and the A/C Clutch Diode as well as the PCM Power Relay and the Blower Motor Relay
For starters under the hood swap the PCM Diode and the A/C Clutch Diode as well as the PCM Power Relay and the Blower Motor Relay