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I recently replaced my 1999 f-350 7.3 diesel engine which was running only if I plugged in the block heater. The engine had been over loaded and burned one or two pistons creating a lot of blow by creating many other problems. I swapped out engines with a 2000 7.3 diesel. I installed new seals on the 8 injectors, new glow plugs, new relay, fliters, oil. I have been cranking on the engine for quiet some time and wants to start but wont. Sounds like its firing on maybe two or three cylinders. The check engine light is coming on and code readers from like auto zone dont retreave codes. I was thinking of investing in a programmer for preformance later and code retreaval. Do the programmers sold today retreave these codes I need to diagnose the problem with the engine. I figer the problem could be ether bad injectors, HP oil pump, or the lift pump.
If your new engine was torn completely down to the point where the high pressure oil system could be opened and air can enter, it can take a heck of a long time for oil to build back up and push enough oil to fire the injectors. On the top of the engine in the front there is a rectangular box, that is filled with oil, the reservoir for the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). Remove the plug in the top and see how far the oil is down. It should be within an inch from overflowing. Add oil until then, and note how much you added. With no oil in this reservoir it makes starting almost impossible as there is no oil pressure to fire off the injectors.
I had the same problem. One of my injector o-rings failed and it drew down the HPOP. I also had a bad injector that internally leaked that dropped it down. What a PIA to diagnose. If possible check to see that you have at least 500 PSI from HPOP. Check to make sure your HPOP resevoir is topped off. If you have gauge oil pressure your lift pump is fine. If HPOP is low, isolate which bank is bad.
No reason he would need to swap PCMs for that engine.
If it was an engine out of an older truck with single shot injectors, going into a split shot truck, then maybe, but it would still run.
Thanks for the complement. I have been helped by many members of the diesel stop and firmly believe we need to help each other out when we can.
On the right side you can see the "scales of justice". We can click in there to add positive or negative reputation points to your input here at FTE. Then you become a "supporter" and carry the good on to the next guy/gal in need.
And if you're from TDS I'm sure you'll find a very helpful non smack talking bunch of guys over here in comparison to what you are used to over there.
Make sure the fuel filter housing is bled of any air. Make sure you place a can under the drain hose, open the water drain valve on the bottom of it and cycle the key to get the pump going. Run the pump a few times and then close the valve. cycle the key a few more times, listening closely to the pump. It should wind down as pressure builds. once it sounds like it's got all the pressure it's going to get, start it up. It'll run bad... 2-3 cylinders. Then it'll die.
THEN Cycle the key just like you did before , several times again, and try her again. may run on its own this time, but rough. Do this a third time and you should be on your way but only after blowing the cornflakes out of it. May even lope for a spell, but it will clear up.
Thanks for the help guys. I live in Albuquerque and we just got 14" of snow which wont help trying to start the 7.3. I will try checking the fuel presure and check the HPOP presure and go from there. Thanks To all. SST
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