1992 E150 302 ci. I usually just do a search through the posts to see if there is anyone with a simular problem that I'm having to get a solution for mine. This time I figured I'd do a post because I keep getting messages here that I haven't posted in x amount of time. I was wondering what the symptoms of a fuel pressure regulator going bad is. It started out where if the van sat for a while like overnight it wouldn't start the next day unless I sprayed starter fluid in the breather. Then it got to where if it sat for shorter times it wouldn't start. Now when I driving it, it keeps wanting to stall out like it's running out of gas and I have to dance with the gas pedal to keep it going. The fuel pump died last year so I pulled the tank, cleaned it out and put a new fuel pump in and a new fuel filter so I don't think it's that. I thought maybe I had some water in the tank so I put in some of that dry gas stuff but it didn't help. The thing about it not starting after sitting for a while makes me think it's losing pressure in the fuel lines, but would the regulator cause the stalling while I'm driving and acting like it's out of gas problem. Whats confusing is that it will do that stalling thing for a while and then run ok for a little while, then start the stalling thing again, mostly the stalling thing.

 

It sounds like you have a bad check valve or shuttle valve inside the DM. Do you have two tanks if so does it do it on both tanks?
The fuel pressure regulator when it goes bad you can pull the vacuum hose off with the engine running and it will have gas coming out of the nipple.
Do this with a cold engine and have a rag to catch to gas if it comes.

DM - Fuel Delivery Module
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...yAssembly2.gif

 

One big tank, I think it's 35 gal. Where would the Fuel Delivery Module be located ? I never heard of it. I am going to check pulling off the vacuum line tomorrow. I wish I had access to a fuel pressure gauge without having to buy one that I may only use once or twice, cause they ain't cheap.

 

The Fuel Delivery Module is inside your fuel tank and the Fuel pump is inside of it.Most of the time you can get away with buying a small tire dial gauge from an Auto Parts Store for about $1.50 and they will work just fine. I say most because some have said that they have bought them and they did not work but I have no problem with them.

With that all said with one tank you should not have a problem if the shuttle valve or the hi-pressure check valve is bad once the engine is running.

The shuttle valve has no use on a one-tank system as it just lets gas back into the tank from the Fuel Pressure Regulator of the selected fuel tank and could be open all the time with no problem.

The Hi Pressure check valve is open all the time the engine is running and if it is struck open you would have a longer cranking time but it should run OK once started on a one tank system.

The fuel pressure should be about 35 PSI idling and go to about 42 PSI when you rev it, when you shut off the engine the fuel pressure should hold about 35 PSI and drop very little but would go to zero overnight. The one-second that the fuel pump runs when you turn on the key in the morning should bring it back up to 45 PSI before starting.
If it does this then the check valve and fuel pressure regulator is good unless fuel comes out of the regulator nipple when you take off the hose.
The engine will not have to be running to check for fuel out of the nipple if you just turn the key on a few times with hose off.

You could very well may have a bad fuel pressure regulator but the above tests should tell you if it is a fuel problem or not.
I would say your problem is more than likely a vacuum leak but you need to pull the codes on your PCM to see what they say.
If you do not know how to pull them then go to the URL below:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

 

How about fuel filter?? u didn't mention that u've replaced it!! usually when the fuel pump dies the filter is at the main cause!! that's what I read and heard from various people!!

 

It's been raining here for the last few days. I'll check this stuff out when it stops and dries up out here. Thanks.

 

Nightowl, the FPR is REALLY easy to check. Pull the engine cover off inside the van, you'll see it behind the upper plenum, pull the vacuum line off and smell it. If it smells like gas then the diaphram has ruptured and it's causing a rich condition. If it's not full of gas then start the engine and see if you have vacuum in the line. It's a hard plastic line and they are prone to breakage over time.

 

The weathers cleared up nicely, I found my analog VOM and I have a little time to spend on it. I did pull the dog house and pulled the vacuum line off the FPR and there is vacuum and no gas. While I was checking vacuum lines I did find out why I'm not getting hot air out of my rear heater, (it's a conversion van) I have no vacuum at the hose that opens the valve to let the water run to the rear heater core. Not that importent in this part of Texas. I'm going to do a code test using my VOM this week and hopefully it will give me codes to the problem. I brought the van to AutoZone a long time ago to have them do a code test about something else and the guy that does their code testing at that store didn't even know how to hook up the Actron scanner to the code plugs, and when he figured it out he didn't know how to read the codes. Oh well, I'll let you know if I get codes, and if they tell me what the problem is. Thanks guys.

 

You have it backwards.
No vacuum lets the water flow to the rear, you get vacuum on this line (Blue Hose) when you move your controls to the Max AC, NORM AC and VENT positions.
Somebody may have put the wrong valve on it if it needs vacuum to open.


Do not let AutoZone put the Actron scanner on your truck, the last member that did that it took out the EEC Computer.
Use your meter or MIL (CEL) lamp on your dash and go to http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
for more information.