Ignition Switch/Steering Column
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Ignition Switch/Steering Column
I just bought a 1989 F-150, Lariat, with tilt, and could not remove the key from the ignition. I could tell that the ignition was not coming completely back to the off position (and wouldn't even come close to coming back to the accessory position). I was in a pinch to get the key out (doors won't lock) and forced the lock cylinder back to the off position.
I'm new to working on the steering column of these trucks, so pardon my terminology (or lack of it).
Of course something broke, and with the key inserted, the cylinder will do a 360. I removed the cylinder and I can see that a rod coming out of the end of it is broken off in the steering column.
What will I need to do to fix the problem? Any hints you guys can give would be great.
Thanks in advance for the help!
I'm new to working on the steering column of these trucks, so pardon my terminology (or lack of it).
Of course something broke, and with the key inserted, the cylinder will do a 360. I removed the cylinder and I can see that a rod coming out of the end of it is broken off in the steering column.
What will I need to do to fix the problem? Any hints you guys can give would be great.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 545
Likes: 0
From: Lockport, NY
first does your steering column have a little switch near back and just below you ignition switch? This is to release the ignition from the actuator to get key out.
as for the broken actuator, on my 89 i broke mine, i had room for it to slide up a little to get it in positionto work, towards base of steering column a little ring with a very small hex screw, loosen the screw and slid acuator, if not the actuator will need replace.
worse case you will no long need key to start
as for the broken actuator, on my 89 i broke mine, i had room for it to slide up a little to get it in positionto work, towards base of steering column a little ring with a very small hex screw, loosen the screw and slid acuator, if not the actuator will need replace.
worse case you will no long need key to start
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 4
From: houston,tx
there is a snap-ring down inside where the cylinder housing, after that you should be able to fish out the brass gear with the broken pin inside. Usually there's an underlying problem that causes this like the actuator arm . Be sure to clean all the metal shavings and lubricate the slide and gear- i like to use a white lithium-based grease.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 190
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I removed the cylinder and the brass gear. If it's not an act of congress, I'm thinking about replacing the actuator arm - I'm guessing that's what the underlying problem is anyway.
What are the steps to do that?
What are the steps to do that?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
I found this set of steps in my search. If any need to be changed feel free to make a note.
go buy the actuator
get a steering wheel puller and pull the wheel after unscrewing the two screws at the back of wheel and disconnecting wires.(this is really easy. the puller i bought was $25 but there was a universal cheapy for $5.00 which, in hindsight would have worked too)
socket set, needle nose, fine pipck tool came in handy, bearing grease, philips and flat head screw drivers, a punch, snap-ring pliers recommended.
remove three screws from turn signal apparatus (2 are same, i different). careful of the little flat metal bars in there. mine were broken and fell out which is why my turn signal was sloppy. i cut up an old flat feeler guage and replaced. worked perfectly.
remove three screws holding column collar with ignition.
remove the thingy with the teeth (hope that is not too technical for ya) that the ignition gear from key turns at the same time.
remove the three allen screws that face away from you and you acess from behind. two are easy, one is a bugger.
remove two large bolts under dash that hold the column up. drop column.
remove two plastic column covers that hide column where it meets dash.
remove screw and clip that hold the plastic white cord thing that operates your gear shift indicator. this will need adjusting later.
remove the snap ring that holds the bearing onto the shaft. do yourself a favour and get snap-ring pliers. i did not have them and it took some extra time to get that off.
remove bearing.
remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it. if you miss it and it ends up mysteriously on the floor and you do not know where it came from, it'll take an extra 1/2 hour to figure it out. (don't ask how i know).
screw a screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together. you cannot get the actuator in without doing this. i could remove the broken one without of course.
remove the two nuts that hold the ignition switch to the base of the steering column by your feet and pull actuator rod out. you will need to adjust this later so the ignition/key position works at the right points. (no sweat)
pull the actuator and rod out. put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. PAY ATTENTION HERE TOO. do not drive it hard so it falls into the dirt at your feet and you almost lose it (don't ask how i know). you need this little pin to drive back into the rod and actuator.
put assembled actuator and rod back into column.
reassemble is reverse.
clean out all the muck in there while you are at it. grease up your bearings and moving parts too. clean up metal rings on wheel etcetera that operate your horn/cruise.
go buy the actuator
get a steering wheel puller and pull the wheel after unscrewing the two screws at the back of wheel and disconnecting wires.(this is really easy. the puller i bought was $25 but there was a universal cheapy for $5.00 which, in hindsight would have worked too)
socket set, needle nose, fine pipck tool came in handy, bearing grease, philips and flat head screw drivers, a punch, snap-ring pliers recommended.
remove three screws from turn signal apparatus (2 are same, i different). careful of the little flat metal bars in there. mine were broken and fell out which is why my turn signal was sloppy. i cut up an old flat feeler guage and replaced. worked perfectly.
remove three screws holding column collar with ignition.
remove the thingy with the teeth (hope that is not too technical for ya) that the ignition gear from key turns at the same time.
remove the three allen screws that face away from you and you acess from behind. two are easy, one is a bugger.
remove two large bolts under dash that hold the column up. drop column.
remove two plastic column covers that hide column where it meets dash.
remove screw and clip that hold the plastic white cord thing that operates your gear shift indicator. this will need adjusting later.
remove the snap ring that holds the bearing onto the shaft. do yourself a favour and get snap-ring pliers. i did not have them and it took some extra time to get that off.
remove bearing.
remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it. if you miss it and it ends up mysteriously on the floor and you do not know where it came from, it'll take an extra 1/2 hour to figure it out. (don't ask how i know).
screw a screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together. you cannot get the actuator in without doing this. i could remove the broken one without of course.
remove the two nuts that hold the ignition switch to the base of the steering column by your feet and pull actuator rod out. you will need to adjust this later so the ignition/key position works at the right points. (no sweat)
pull the actuator and rod out. put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. PAY ATTENTION HERE TOO. do not drive it hard so it falls into the dirt at your feet and you almost lose it (don't ask how i know). you need this little pin to drive back into the rod and actuator.
put assembled actuator and rod back into column.
reassemble is reverse.
clean out all the muck in there while you are at it. grease up your bearings and moving parts too. clean up metal rings on wheel etcetera that operate your horn/cruise.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,960
Likes: 594
From: Greater Austin, Texas
How I can tell my actuator is going is when the key won't work right (kind of binds up in it's travel) with the tilt wheel all the way up. I usually limp along by straightening the column before I turn the key (doing that right now on my current '91 F150) for a while till I can get around to the task. It's kind of a bugger, not real hard, but a lot to do, kind of like a timing chain. I bought my actuator yesterday, I'll be doing this job (for the 3rd time in my life) next weekend probably.
Good write-up, jwdenny. I haven't done one in several years, but your account matches my recollection.
Good write-up, jwdenny. I haven't done one in several years, but your account matches my recollection.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 4
From: houston,tx
Forget that! after you get the sig. switch out remove the ignition switch on the bottom, that frees up the rod going to the actuator; you don't drop the culumn or pull the shaft. I have the same truck same year, tilt column and all. takes 30 min tops
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 4
From: houston,tx
maybe i didn't state everything exactly, but once you pull loose the ignition switch it it makes it easier to pull the actuator out with the rod still attatched so you don't have to drop the column or anything. still about 30 min.so don't be upset if i can cheat the clock
So you don't think i'm talking aimlessly my there are two of these trucks in the family-fixed em both the same way.
morgan fairchild-..........in your dreams!
eva longoria-..in mine!!
So you don't think i'm talking aimlessly my there are two of these trucks in the family-fixed em both the same way.
morgan fairchild-..........in your dreams!
eva longoria-..in mine!!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Since I have the ignition key cylinder removed, is there a trick I could use to get the truck cranked? I haven't decided yet if I'm going to replace the actuator rod right now or not. This truck is a rebuilder and all I basically need to do is get it cranked to drive up on a trailer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,960
Likes: 594
From: Greater Austin, Texas
Ben, you must be too young to get the "My girlfriend is Morgan Fairchild" reference.
jwdenny, you can unbolt the ignition switch from the column and let it hang down. Stick a small screwdriver in the slot where the rod goes and slide it to make it start.
Ben, I am in Austin, if you get up that way, I would LOVE for you to show me your trick that turns that job into a 30 minute affair.
jwdenny, you can unbolt the ignition switch from the column and let it hang down. Stick a small screwdriver in the slot where the rod goes and slide it to make it start.
Ben, I am in Austin, if you get up that way, I would LOVE for you to show me your trick that turns that job into a 30 minute affair.
Last edited by jas88; Dec 31, 2006 at 10:01 AM.