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ip/injectors

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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 12:29 PM
  #1  
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lartross
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From: Cameron, Ok
ip/injectors

I just installed my new [rebuilt] ip and injectors in my truck and now I have that sick feeling in the pit of my stomach. The new one is leaking...don't know if it is the weep hole or one of the lines...when I removed to old injectors, #1 and 3 were wet on the ends...the rest were sooty,so I thought I was doing a good thing for sure. They had BB stamped on the side of them. It wouldn't start with the new stuff, so, I kept cranking for 20 sec and waiting 2 mins while I cracked the injector lines and let air bubble out with a charger on the bats. After awhile, it started cranking a lot slower...must have burned my starter windings...I hope I'm still having trouble getting all the air out of my lines...Well, back to the mill. Oh, my fast idle solenoid fell apart, tried to get another...no longer made, so, I fixed the one I have and the ip didn't mate up with the the sol. plunger, so, I tried to bend the tab and broke the damned thing off. Can I swap it out, easily? [pull the throttle rod out the ip and insert my old one?]
 
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 04:29 PM
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bilder12
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the "rebuilt" pump, is it one you bought new or someone else did ? You will have to make sure the lines are seated correctly on the pump outlets or they will leak. You should be able to install the lines while the pump is out of the truck and install the whole thing like a big butterfly and carefully move the lines around to fit. And hopefully, you did the R & R the easy way (not removing the tower cover) and dont have the timing way off.
Give us some more info and we can get you going. Did you install the system with new seals ? and return line system ? and proper torques for the injectors ?
Tell us what you did to complete the R&R.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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lartross
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From: Cameron, Ok
I bought the rebuilt pump from "diesel care", an Ebay retailer. I installed the lines while the pump was on the tailgate...swapped from the old to the new. I installed new copper seals, new return lines and new orings. I did not remove the tower cover. I set the timing mark spot on, pump to tower. I cracked the lines to the injectors till fuel came out. Then, after the starter burned up, I replaced the starter, all the while charging the batteries. I have an electric lift pump and I had good fuel flow at the schrader valve in the fuel filter assy. Since I need the truck and it's schedualed to rain a lot tommorrow and I'm working outside, I had it towed to a local diesel shop for analysis and possible repair. 'till it's back, I'll have to ride the bike to work...at least I don't have to worry about snow...I guess the only thing I need to know now is can I just pull the throttle rod out of the ip and exchange it with my old pumps?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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PLC7.3
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From: Manitoba
I guess the only thing I need to know now is can I just pull the throttle rod out of the ip and exchange it with my old pumps?
That is not advised, let the shop do the work or return the IP too Dcare for them to do it. Once you open the IP there will be no more warranty. Never try to bend anything....... the fast idle solenoid is adjusted by screwing in/out the brass plunger. They are still available..

http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm#solenoids

E5TZ12B526A $129.93... sell$ 97.45
Fuel system - Fuel induction - Diesel injection pump - Idle speed control
 
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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KJLYPW
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Its broke now so send it back to be fixed and let them know about the starting problem/ leak. It could be the fuel screw cover plate is not tight, Mine was loose when I got it as I think they probably set up the fuel screw last thing on rebuild. Also I filled up my injectors with diesel clean out of a small bottle before I attached the lines, and cranked it over about three 20 second cycles from the soliniod (so the glow plugs were not activated) before even hooking up the lines, with the throttle in the wide open position. Hooked up the lines and it fired right up. Good luck
 
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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From: Cameron, Ok
I got my truck back...it runs great! A lot quieter, nearly as much power and a practically no smoke. The shop said the pump wouldn't "Pop" the injectors and put in another rebuilt pump. So, now, I just have to deal with dcare about getting a warranty return. I'm still having an air leak problem in the fuel system. Hard to start after sitting awhile. Local mech said plug the schrader valve with a valve core cap and that my heater connection was leaking and that the oring was replaceable, but, seldom fixed it as it was usually a worn filter housing issue and that they were very hard to find. I wonder if something like a diesel chevy fuel filter set-up [the dual filter assy] would be a good fix? Would they have the same wiring connections? [water-in-fuel, heater, filter clogged?]
 
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