restoration
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If there is no crossmember under the transmission you should be able to pull it as a unit if the truck is jacked up enough to tip the front of the engine up high enough without the tranny hitting the floor. If you have a good radiator in the truck I'd take it out first to give you more room and to protect it from accidental damage. If you have a major amont of work to do to and around the engine, you may want to remove the front sheet metal as well. Just unbolt it as a unit and slide it off.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs, FL
Ax,
That is a real good suggestion about removing the front sheet metal. It may sound like unnecessary work, but I know from working on my truck that it will save you time and effort in the long run.
Ron
That is a real good suggestion about removing the front sheet metal. It may sound like unnecessary work, but I know from working on my truck that it will save you time and effort in the long run.
Ron
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,975
Likes: 9,800
From: Rio Rancho, NM
It also a surprise to find out how many bolts hold the front clip together. Lets, see, maybe 6 to 8 bolts total to hold a front clip on, and approx 40 thousand holding one fender in place (maybe a small exaggeration, but only slightly)
Bobby
Bobby
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Wyoming
Thanks for all your guys help. I am sure i will be here asking more questions. I am ready now to pull the motor as soon as i can get a hoist. Then see where it goes from there. I am still tring to decide if i want to build the engine myself or take it to a machine/engine shop to have the go ahead and do it for me.
thanks
thanks
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Wyoming
I have the engine out and almost completly torn to the block but i am having problems getting the rear crankshaft bearing cap off it does not want to move at all. Could it be the seal that is somehow holding it in place keeping me from getting it off? Any one have any suggestions on getting it off?
Thanks guys
chris
Thanks guys
chris
Last edited by chriswy; Jan 29, 2007 at 12:53 PM.
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 334
Likes: 1
From: Airdrie Ab. Canada
Is it rusty? It should come apart. Is there any kind of lock tab that is holding it? You might just have to get a bigger breaker bar to get it off.
Don
Don
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 145
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From: Coral Springs, FL
Good sized rubber or plactic faced weighted hammer
Ax,
These same good sized rubber or plastic faced weighted hammer against the side of the head also persuade me to see reason, or so my wife thinks.
Ron
These same good sized rubber or plastic faced weighted hammer against the side of the head also persuade me to see reason, or so my wife thinks.
Ron
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: Fredericton N B Canada
You have a very good looking straight truck. From what I have read you are going at it the right way, asking lots of good questions and being very careful in what you are doing. I agree that keeping that engine is the best way to go. I keep telling people that are swapping out the original engine / transmission to keep it in the event they or a buyer of the vehicle may prefer the orininal drive train. Keep up the good work.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
It really should come right off. Better yet, a short 2x4 and a real bid GD hammer/hand mallet and give it a couple fo whacks. It won't hurt the bearing cap or the crank. Just make sure the 2x4 is hitting the part you want to come off. You will destroy the piece of 2x4 before you ever begin to hurt the steel.