bronco go boom.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
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From: Joppa, Maryland
bronco go boom.
I drove 2.5 hrs up to raush creek this morning to do some wheelin and about an hour into riding the trails (the sissy trails.. wheelin buddy has a stock explorer 
) the rear end let loose. I drove back to the trailer with fwd pretty easily. anyway.. it was clunking and binding up as i drove and eventually i lost the ability to move in 2wd. I can turn the driveshaft almost completly around before it will catch and turn the wheels.
So, I pulled the axle shafts out (i think thats what they're called?) and the splines look fine, but I think I can see chunks of metal in the diff. At this point I don't know what to do next, do you think I should pull the cover off and see whats going on in there or is this a job best left to the pros?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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The ring gear let go,,,,,,,then the pinion,,,,,,,then the spiders,,,,,,(if welded, then the welded spiders) then,,,,,,,,
Not necessarilly in that order. Just wait till you see the suprise inside the center section. It is hard to imagine so much carnage in there, until you actually see it for yourself.
Sorry one had to happen to you, but it happens to all of us, eventually.
If you have never broken anything, then you are just not trying hard enough.
BTW, 78 Bronco? What cover? Did you break a 60? Thought you hada 9".
Not necessarilly in that order. Just wait till you see the suprise inside the center section. It is hard to imagine so much carnage in there, until you actually see it for yourself.
Sorry one had to happen to you, but it happens to all of us, eventually.
If you have never broken anything, then you are just not trying hard enough.
BTW, 78 Bronco? What cover? Did you break a 60? Thought you hada 9".
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
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From: Joppa, Maryland
Yeah, its a 9"... I just called it a cover 'cause I don't know what to call it, the thing in the front that comes off.
I just wish I had a cool story to go with it exploding. but nope, it just let go when I put it in reverse and then started to go forward again.
But nope, it wasn't welded.
I just wish I had a cool story to go with it exploding. but nope, it just let go when I put it in reverse and then started to go forward again.
But nope, it wasn't welded.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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No worries man, thought you stuck a big rear end in without telling any of us.
Still a bummer any way you look at it. Any time that much metal floats around, (I said metal, and float huh?) means that it is gonna be a total rebuild. The axle bearings are the only questionable items there. Still would change em anyway.
Don't know if Santa has left yet, but maybe he has room for a "Detroit" and some gears in that sleigh of his. Have you been good this year, or are you expecting a lump of coal like most of us?
Still a bummer any way you look at it. Any time that much metal floats around, (I said metal, and float huh?) means that it is gonna be a total rebuild. The axle bearings are the only questionable items there. Still would change em anyway.
Don't know if Santa has left yet, but maybe he has room for a "Detroit" and some gears in that sleigh of his. Have you been good this year, or are you expecting a lump of coal like most of us?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
I think I'm getting a cam/manifold/4barrel actually.. 
is a rebuild something someone with no experience doing that type of work can do? I'd hate to buy all those parts and not set it up right just to have it 'go boom' again.
is a rebuild something someone with no experience doing that type of work can do? I'd hate to buy all those parts and not set it up right just to have it 'go boom' again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,948
Likes: 44
For the first time, it can be rough. I am sure nobody on this site would recommend it without much supervision, regardless of mechanical skills. (unless they have done it before)
That being said, for the money you are gonna dish out for all of the new stuff, could you find a 60 that you could put in, and build as you go along? This is the time to upgrade. I know you just got some new meats for your rig, (they look good), but how much can you salvage to upgrade to something that you know you are gonna do eventually?
What ratio are you running?
That being said, for the money you are gonna dish out for all of the new stuff, could you find a 60 that you could put in, and build as you go along? This is the time to upgrade. I know you just got some new meats for your rig, (they look good), but how much can you salvage to upgrade to something that you know you are gonna do eventually?
What ratio are you running?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
i dunno why ppl are so quick to suggest a D60 for the rear but they SUCK, i guess prolly bc the D60 fronts are so highly sought after. if you are going to take the time to do a swap go 1 ton with a sterling or D70. just my opinion
i would definitely just yank the rear 9 in lieu of a 1 ton. you should be able to find 8 lug wheels easy and if this is your wheelin play truck it shouldnt be a big deal.
that sucks man, glad you got to go ride SOME at least, lol. thats more than i can say. i also take it that your trailer experience was uneventful, i hope?
-cutts-
i would definitely just yank the rear 9 in lieu of a 1 ton. you should be able to find 8 lug wheels easy and if this is your wheelin play truck it shouldnt be a big deal.
that sucks man, glad you got to go ride SOME at least, lol. thats more than i can say. i also take it that your trailer experience was uneventful, i hope?
-cutts-
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
I'm actually not sure of the ratio, I would guess its a 3.55 or so.
I don't know if I'm quite ready for a dana60(or a 1ton) yet, I honestly don't plan on going to tires much bigger than these, remember my wheelin buddy is in a stock explorer.. 36's are overkill for what I see.
I'd like to learn how to do it, but that'd be an expensive experiment if it went wrong.
edit: yeah, the dually towed it great. I don't know if I said this in the other thread but the trailer brakes started working again after a little cleaning on the connector. balance was perfect, no swaying and the steering felt good.
I don't know if I'm quite ready for a dana60(or a 1ton) yet, I honestly don't plan on going to tires much bigger than these, remember my wheelin buddy is in a stock explorer.. 36's are overkill for what I see.
I'd like to learn how to do it, but that'd be an expensive experiment if it went wrong.
edit: yeah, the dually towed it great. I don't know if I said this in the other thread but the trailer brakes started working again after a little cleaning on the connector. balance was perfect, no swaying and the steering felt good.
Last edited by captain p4; Dec 23, 2006 at 11:01 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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Fish:
most of us are quick to consider the 60 because they are cheap, and strong, not just the front ones.
They may as you say, "suck", but that would be compared to anything larger. For that matter, nobody mentions the 14 bolt. That is a very good rear end, and can be found at salvage yards with Detroits for pretty cheap. I would put that in before a Sterling. That diff. (not ring gear) has much to sacrifice. It is too big around, and finds many rocks. This is one of the reasons that we use 60's. They are not as bad as you say, and any way you look at it, they are still stronger than a 9", even without all of those bearings on the pinion.
Although, even the Sterling could be a reasonable option, compared to the rebuild of the 9".
most of us are quick to consider the 60 because they are cheap, and strong, not just the front ones.
They may as you say, "suck", but that would be compared to anything larger. For that matter, nobody mentions the 14 bolt. That is a very good rear end, and can be found at salvage yards with Detroits for pretty cheap. I would put that in before a Sterling. That diff. (not ring gear) has much to sacrifice. It is too big around, and finds many rocks. This is one of the reasons that we use 60's. They are not as bad as you say, and any way you look at it, they are still stronger than a 9", even without all of those bearings on the pinion.
Although, even the Sterling could be a reasonable option, compared to the rebuild of the 9".
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 688
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From: right here in michigan
i've blown up my 9" a couple times.pushed the side diff bearings through the caps.the bolts were still tight.i'm not going to tell you what to do but after i put a strange center section in mine i had no more problems.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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andym:
a factory 14 bolt will have 8 lugs, and will not be the same pattern as the d44 on the front of the broncos. One of two things has to happen to fix the two spare tires thing.
The front could be changed to 8 lug instaed od 5 lug, or, the rear could be changed to accomodate disc brakes, and 5 lug wheels.
Do not get me wrong, I am a fan of the 9". I am just throwing out a few options, that are quite cost effective.
Btw, 15" wheels will fit on 1 ton running gear, without cutting or grinding calipers. So they are a viable option for 1/2 to upgrades without having to go to 16", or 16.5" wheels.
a factory 14 bolt will have 8 lugs, and will not be the same pattern as the d44 on the front of the broncos. One of two things has to happen to fix the two spare tires thing.
The front could be changed to 8 lug instaed od 5 lug, or, the rear could be changed to accomodate disc brakes, and 5 lug wheels.
Do not get me wrong, I am a fan of the 9". I am just throwing out a few options, that are quite cost effective.
Btw, 15" wheels will fit on 1 ton running gear, without cutting or grinding calipers. So they are a viable option for 1/2 to upgrades without having to go to 16", or 16.5" wheels.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
i have seen way too many 60's fail time and time again. there is no way i would take the time to swap in a 60 rear when i can get a 14bolt, D70, or 10.25 for the same price and it swaps in. i wouldnt care which of the 3 I used as they are al about the same strength wise, i just know i would not waste my time on a 60 rear. sorry, its just my personal experience.
its not the rear axle that you have to worry about rims fitting, they all use the same exact wheel pattern and will all accept 15's. its the D44HD and D60 fronts that prevent you from running 15's on the front.
yes i agree that the 60 is better than a 9" but the small amount of extra clearance you gain with a 9 versus a 60 very much outweighs the strength differences. i have never seen a sterling bust an axleshaft, even after beating the SHNOT out of it.
however with all that said, it is all personal opinion and if all you are gonna run is 35/36's then a ford 9 will do just fine given the right upgrades plus you will have the advantage of extra clearance, about the same as a 1ton axle and 39" tires
-cutts-
its not the rear axle that you have to worry about rims fitting, they all use the same exact wheel pattern and will all accept 15's. its the D44HD and D60 fronts that prevent you from running 15's on the front.
yes i agree that the 60 is better than a 9" but the small amount of extra clearance you gain with a 9 versus a 60 very much outweighs the strength differences. i have never seen a sterling bust an axleshaft, even after beating the SHNOT out of it.
however with all that said, it is all personal opinion and if all you are gonna run is 35/36's then a ford 9 will do just fine given the right upgrades plus you will have the advantage of extra clearance, about the same as a 1ton axle and 39" tires
-cutts-
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
ok, I uploaded some pictures of the carnage in the album 'ford 9inch' in my gallery.
I took it apart today and the ring and pinion gears look to be in good shape.. but the gears inside the ring gear (spider gears i think they're called?) came out in chunks. Take a look and tell me what you think..
Also, on the passenger side where the bearing rides looks to be worn down pretty badly, how big of an issue is this? There is a picture of that also. Where the axle shaft slides into seems to be floating around freely on this side, while the driver's side has remained in the same place.
thanks guys
edit: also, what gear ratio would you recommend with the 36's? I think it's going to see a lot more time on the trailer, it was sooo much easier to ride in the big cushy superduty than to drive that bronco all the way up there, so I don't think it's going to see THAT much highway time anymore, but I'd still like to be able to hit 65 without redlining.. I turned the pinion gear about 3.5 times, maybe a little less to get one rotation out of the ring gear, so i'm guessing around a 3.55 it has right now.
edit again: and while its apart I guess its time for posi - what would you recommend for my setup, some type of spool?
I took it apart today and the ring and pinion gears look to be in good shape.. but the gears inside the ring gear (spider gears i think they're called?) came out in chunks. Take a look and tell me what you think..
Also, on the passenger side where the bearing rides looks to be worn down pretty badly, how big of an issue is this? There is a picture of that also. Where the axle shaft slides into seems to be floating around freely on this side, while the driver's side has remained in the same place.
thanks guys
edit: also, what gear ratio would you recommend with the 36's? I think it's going to see a lot more time on the trailer, it was sooo much easier to ride in the big cushy superduty than to drive that bronco all the way up there, so I don't think it's going to see THAT much highway time anymore, but I'd still like to be able to hit 65 without redlining.. I turned the pinion gear about 3.5 times, maybe a little less to get one rotation out of the ring gear, so i'm guessing around a 3.55 it has right now.
edit again: and while its apart I guess its time for posi - what would you recommend for my setup, some type of spool?
Last edited by captain p4; Dec 24, 2006 at 08:29 PM.
