wiring problems :(
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wiring problems :(
hey can anyone help me .... i have an 1981 ford f100 2x4 302 v8 and i have a little wiring problem...... ok here it goes.. my truck will not keep a charge a have replace ( alternator <5times>, battery, cables, volteage regulator, condencers, ignition, ignition switch, and starter ) i have also checked all the wiring in the engine compartment and everything looks fine but my truck will not charge the battery and all it does is run off of the battery and then wont start agian after draining it. i just need to know if anyone has a copy of a wiring diagram for this truck and if they did if they could send it to me. i would really appreciate it. this is my only vehicle and i have no others so i need it asap. thank you...
spoter142002@yahoo.com
Jon Porter
spoter142002@yahoo.com
Jon Porter
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this may sound odd, however, here goes. my truck was doing this and it turned out to be the headlight switch. It wasn't turning off completly somehow, and the running lights were staying on real dim. the battery would be dead as a rock in a few days.
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From: Stafford Springs,Ct
Do you have power 12v going to the alt. A alternator must have power going in to to work. check to see if you have 12v to the bat. stud on the back of the alt. That is where I would start if your battery is good.
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That alternator should be putting out a minimum of 40 amps at about 14.2 volts.
Does this alternator have an integral Voltage regulator or is the VR mounted on the fender ?
Also, don't count on the alternator to charge the battery.
It is only to be used top up the battery charge.
The battery should be fully charged with a battery charger.
Old & New Batteries can be faulty because they sulfate and develop shorts inside themselves.
The Battery is the HEART of any truck,. it has to be in tip top shape for everything to go right.
Does this alternator have an integral Voltage regulator or is the VR mounted on the fender ?
Also, don't count on the alternator to charge the battery.
It is only to be used top up the battery charge.
The battery should be fully charged with a battery charger.
Old & New Batteries can be faulty because they sulfate and develop shorts inside themselves.
The Battery is the HEART of any truck,. it has to be in tip top shape for everything to go right.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Dec 22, 2006 at 12:56 AM.
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Turn it off, close the door, disconnect the negative battery terminal, put a test light between the negative battery post and the dangling terminal. If any glow, you have a short draining the battery.
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That test light method won't work, it hasn't since the advent of the car clock back in the 50's. There is always a drain for the radio memory, clock, etc. On newer trucks the computer systems also draw a little current at all times.
It usually takes less than an hour for a good electrical system mechanic to track down a battery drain. Many times far less time. It is a hell of a lot cheaper to take it to a good mechanic than to shotgun the system with parts aimlessly.
It is even quicker and less costly to take the vehicle to an Auto Parts store and get the charging system checked out. The machines are really good.
While at the auto parts store pick up a service manual that has wiring diagrams and all the other goodies. A service manual is the FIRST thing to buy for your truck!
It usually takes less than an hour for a good electrical system mechanic to track down a battery drain. Many times far less time. It is a hell of a lot cheaper to take it to a good mechanic than to shotgun the system with parts aimlessly.
It is even quicker and less costly to take the vehicle to an Auto Parts store and get the charging system checked out. The machines are really good.
While at the auto parts store pick up a service manual that has wiring diagrams and all the other goodies. A service manual is the FIRST thing to buy for your truck!
Last edited by Torque1st; Dec 22, 2006 at 06:00 AM.
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I am ahving the same type of problem with my 1983 F150 4x4. I have checked the altenator with a gauge and it reads 2 amps, what should it be putting out? I replaced belts because the belt was slipping this fixed it for a awhile but it was dead yesterday. Started right up when jumped. What about a battery switch I put one in a Volvo I had and it worked fine. Beats trying to chase a short.
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From: Red Deer,AB,Canada
*Alternator* as in Alternating current.
What are you using to measure the amperage output of the alternator ?
Most testors require a shunt device.
Srer is talking about this test which doesn't apply to these year trucks as Torque1st states.
http://www.inliners.org/tech/tech6.html
What are you using to measure the amperage output of the alternator ?
Most testors require a shunt device.
Srer is talking about this test which doesn't apply to these year trucks as Torque1st states.
http://www.inliners.org/tech/tech6.html
Last edited by OldThumper; Dec 22, 2006 at 05:13 PM.
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ok first your alternator should be putting out 14.5 amps and 40.2volts ok u should check the wires coming off of the alternator then check all your electrical compnits and then check all the wiring and the fusable links in the wires they are genrally located on the passanger side firewall in the wiring.. so u need check all of that get testers test ur alternator i am almost positive that it is bad and when u go to buy your alternator new or remanufactures u need to have them test it. thats all i can think of right at the moment.............................as for the taking it to the machanic i would but it actually around where i live is cheaper to shotgun it because i live in a little farm comunnity and most of the maechanics dont get a lot of buisness so they charge u a lot soo sometimes it is cheaper but i have had it at every mecanic shop in town and either they cant find the problem or they dont look at it and it just sits soo i am fed up with the mechanic thing i know how to do most of the stuff its just this thing is just pissing me off
Last edited by spoter142002; Dec 22, 2006 at 08:32 PM.
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yes i know this now i think i am just gonna go get a new wiring harness and rewire the mother it is pissing me off i am about ready to pull the motor anf junk the truck u know
Last edited by fordborn; Feb 11, 2007 at 11:11 PM. Reason: remove profanity
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From: REDSKIN COUNTRY
On my 84 300, granny gear longbed, I most recently could say I'v had a similar problem to the one you mention with a slow "overnight" drain (a jump will restart) usually dead in morning. I also noticed sometimes after driving around for like 20 minutes at night, the headlights would suddenly go on and off and continue flickering. So I replaced the headlight switch and it no longer flickers. So I'm wondering if like Auburnfan's advice (I never noticed dim lights he mentioned), maybe your prob is the headlight switch. I too shotgunned by buying lots of new parts: bought a new battery, volt reg, bat cables before this. I'v been using a battery switch for eons at night (to keep system from killing my battery or any long down periods) now i'm eager to see if I can trust it overnight without turning the battery switch off. I'll hopefully post in the next few days to advise of my luck.