wiring problems :(
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Sir, one thing more you may wish to check out is the grounds on your vehicle. The reason I post this is on account of after a most aggravating time trying to track down electrical gremlins (and $700.00 worth of un-needed repairs) it turned out that corrosion had rendered many of the grounds worthless. Remove the battery ground where it connects to the frame..clean it well and clean the terminal as well, then re-attach tightly and spray with whatever corrosion-proof material you choose. (WD 40/grease/paint/Vasoline/etc.) Do the same for the ground on the alternator...and the same for the headlights. Check back near the bell-housing/transmission for a webbed ground strap that connects the bellhousing/transmission to the frame. Is it intact, clean and securely fastened? What I found out in my trials is that if the battery is not securely grounded to the vehicle...and the vehicle is not securely grounded throughout...the battery will not charge. Period. Even if the alternator is working perfectly! Now..a few simple tests. Once the vehicle is started does it stutter/stall or croak when you flip on the headlight switch or raise/dim the headlights? How about when you turn on the heater/defrost fan switch? The more information we have the better we are able to advise you. Mind you, I am not a mechanic...but I have been frustrated and pissed. YMHS...Audie..the oldfart...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 0
From: Niceville, FL.
Please be aware that the Starter Solenoid coils are not really suitable for continuous duty. They get quite hot after just a few minutes. Just get some good 10 A. contact rated 12Volt DC Relays from Radio Shack, Newark Electronics, etc. Somebody, possibly J.C. Whitney, used to sell a kit. But the stock headlights are plenty bright on my '83 F350 after cleaning all the grounds and dimmer switch connections.
