I have a 95 F-150 with an E4OD. When I shift into R or 1 or 2, the engine loads up and the voltmeter drops by a couple volts. When I shift back into N, the load goes off and the engine revs up high until it "catches up" and then idles normal again. I have replaced the alternator, but that didn't help. Whenever the negative cable has been pulled and the codes reset, it'll shift fine for 20 miles or so, and then it goes back to the same old problem. Any ideas?

 

All autos should do that. When you put the tranny in any gear, the valves engage the various gears in the tranny--which are stopped because your foot is on the brake. The engine is spinning the flywheel, hooked to the torque converter. The disconnect occurs in the fluid--the T/C is spinning, but the vanes hooked to the gears in the tranny via the output shaft are not, so the friction in the tranny fluid between the two sets of vanes in the T/C is what is loading up the engine. When you take it out of gear (P or N), the vanes and output shaft are free to spin, so the load is minimal--only internal friction of the bearings.

Jason

 

OK, sound logic, but here's the deal. First, it is a significant load and it never used to do that and now it does. In fact, it even kills the engine when shifted into R on a somewhat regular basis. Second, it only does it in R and the low gears. Holding the brake and putting the tranny in D results in a normal shift. Third, it doesn't do it on a "fresh" computer (after the negative cable has been off), but only after it has run for a while. For these reasons I don't believe it can logically be "normal operation". Any other ideas?

 

Sounds like your transmission is putting a load on the engine. Has it been giving you trouble with OD lately? Banging into gears even slightly?

 

I agree that it seems like the transmission is putting a load on the engine, but I can't figure out why. I haven't had any problems with the overdrive shift. OD is the smoothest one. It does bang very hard when I shift from D to R, but I think they are related problems. Does anyone know what might be causing this?

 

I think I've seen this on my Oldsmobile wagon's transmission. The lock-up torque converter clutch may not be disengaging. Often this is because of a failed lock-up solenoid. On some cars it will stall the engine when you come to a stop from highway speeds, depending on how the hydraulic circuit is pressurized in the transmission. I don't have an E4OD transmission, so I haven't looked up the particulars of what happens on your transmission.

There is a simple test. The outside of the transmission will have an electrical plug to the lock-up solenoid. Disconnect it and drive it around. If the problem goes away, you know that you have to replace the solenoid.

Now imagine my embarrassment if this tranny doesn't have a lock-up torque converter....

Scott

 

The E4OD does have a lock up converter but the selenoid pack has only one connection that controls all the shifting in the transmission. You should pull the codes and see if the computer will tell you anything. You should also check the MLPS to make sure it has not fallen out of adjustment.

 

Thanks for all the input. I have had both the MLPS and the TPS tested (twice) and they both check out OK. I don't get any check engine lights and the mechanic told me there weren't any codes. I haven't yet done the self-test, but I am sure those were wiped out when the alternator was replaced.

skucera may have hit on something with the torque converter not totally disengaging because when I shift into R and let off the brake at idle speed the truck goes in reverse at a speed much faster than what is normal. It also doesn't want to stop when I apply the brake. But this only happens in R, not D, and I don't know if the T/C can actually effect R but not D. If the T/C was not completely disengaging, would that cause a load on the engine? Can the T/C even be partially engaged?

 

The E40D uses a solinoid "pack" (4 or 5 of those suckers?) for its internal operation. If they are all firing off at the same time due to some screwed strategy by the PCM, that would account for the voltage drop & erratic operation. The fact that it goes away after disconnecting the battery then re-learns its bad behavior points in that direction as well.

 

Hi Guys, I just joined this website. I just bought a 1997 Ford F450 with the E4OD transmission. I'm having the same problems with it when I shift into reverse. It only does it when it's warmed up to operating temperature. It will stall the engine when I shift into reverse unless I have my foot on the throttle a little bit. It will start to move at a fast pace pulling hard on the engine then you can feel something release somewhere and the engine will free up. I'm headed to a transmission shop this afternoon and I'll let you know what I find out. By the way, I was told this morning by a couple of transmission people that this transmission case will easily warp, messing up the housing, which will cost around $800.00 for a new housing that has been toughened up to prevent this from happening again. Plus the labor and whatever other parts it would need.

 

Okay this is a common problem. Check your IAC (Idle Air Control) it's bolted to the SIDE of the throttle body. You may need to take the air cleaner hoses off to get to it. Start the truck and pull the electrical connector off of it. IF it stalls or the idle drops then it's OK. Then have someone HOLD the brake and put the truck in gear, check now to see if it's open. If it's not open, you should be able to feel or even hear it click, then there is a problem in the comptuer that SHOULD be setting a code. Usually when an E4OD is having solenoid pack issues it throws a code. Is the OD light on the end of the shifter flashing?

 

My truck has the 7.3 Powerstroke so it doesn't have a throttle body. The light on the gear shift is not flashing. Went to a tranny shop and hooked it up to a computer and test drove it. No codes came up. Interesting though, I found out that manual 1st gear uses the same clutches as reverese. So, manual first was bogging the engine just like reverse was when it was warmed up. The torque converter clutch was engaging when shifting into reverse and when the gear shifter was pulled into manual 1st gear. Nothing unusual about the oil pressure in both cases which lead to the tranny guy to think it needs a selenoid pack. Cost around $250.00. If that doesn't fix it then we're looking at a new tranny housing. He said those housings do warp easily ruining them. He recommends using synthetic tranny fluid. This will help keep them from getting too hot and warping. It's the high heat that warps them. Fords new housings have been beefed up to prevent that from happening again. Too bad Ford didn't issue a recall on the old housings.