hi all, i guess i`m a little confused. [natural state] i`m installing a toyota box in my `56 and keeping the original column. the confusion comes when hooking the two togeather. seems there are three or four ways. with all the expertise here maybe someone could unconfuse me and tell me the best way to hook em up. thanks in advance gusso

 

gusso what year / model was the toyo box you have used and is it power steer box

 

hi alieneffie, its a power steering box and kit from CPP probably 80 to 84 i just picked up a steering shaft [56]w/o a worm gear. i`m aware of u-joints, rag joints, and other connecters. just wondering the best way to hook up or even easest way to hook up thanks. any info greatly welcome gusso

 

Glad you asked Gusso. I need that info as well. It is confusing looking at the offerings in catalogs as they offer more than one method without describing the difference. Universal or some type of coupling?? If universal, what type? One says weld on, one says double D. How about the method of stabilizing the steering shaft in the tube after you cut it? You can spend $70 or $20 but what is realy needed? Is support needed for the tube at the fire wall/floor boards? I see a bracket available at mid fifty. I'll hang up and listen. Thanks all.

 

I have a Toyota box on my panel, and very briefly had it hooked up to my stock column with the U joint made for that purpose from Mid50s.
Well, wouldn't you know it....2 weeks later, before the panel ever left the garage, I was given a new Ididit column, so I switched the columns.
If you are interested in the U joint, I have it for sale in the classifieds; I could cut off the last slice of the column to get it to you, since it's welded to the column, or you could get the whole column.

 

theGman-I looked at your gallery thats a great looking panel I really like the sunscreen. No pictures of the inside and that ididit column ? Bet it looks great. Anyway I appreciate the the offer on the u-joint but I would rather attach the stock column without having to weld it. To all-- still looking for attachment info--THANKS

 

The problem is that, to use the stock column, you need a Ujoint. They are, if I recall, at least 3-4 inches long.
The bottom end of the stock column is part of the box gearing. Even if you could get it out without the common way of cutting it off, it would be way longer than what you would want. It would put the wheel somewhere around your chest.

That's why people cut them off... and, by measuring and allowing for the Ujoint length mentioned above, you can make the column look like it is in the stock locaton. Except the center hole won't be available anymore for the horn wire, so something else has to be done here.

 

Easiest way: buy a borgeson U joint: double D to Toy spline, buy or make a delrin lower column bushing, buy or make a lower column to floor mount (all available from Mid Fifty). Add the U joint to the box in the frame. Measure the length of the column you want from the wheel mount to the inside bottom of the U joint. subtract 1/4" for "wiggle" room. (note if not sure exactly how long you want your column to be, cut it a little long, you can always cut more off) Now measure up the column ~ 2", This is where you'll cut the outer jacket, just be sure it will extend past the firewall into the engine compartment. To cut a straight cut across a tube: cut a 2" wide strip of stiff paper like file folder or poster board at least 4" longer than the distance around the tube, be sure one long edge is perfectly straight. Wrap the strip tightly around the tube adjust the strip so the straight edge lines up with itself where it overlaps and with you cut mark. Holding it tight, mark the tube all the way around along the edge of the strip. You now have a straight and square line around the tube. Use your favorite cutting tool: cutoff wheel, hacksaw and begin cutting the column. cut only until you break thru, then rotate the tube away from you a small amount and continue the cut on the side closest to you until you again break thru. continue the rotating and cutting process until you have severed the tube. DO NOT attempt to cut the tube all the way across like sawing a log, you will make a crooked cut guaranteed! If you happen to have a large pipecutter or chop saw, just go for it. With a hacksaw or cutoff wheel you will not need to remove the steering shaft. Add the lower centering bushing to hold the shaft centered in the tube. Pin or add a screw to hold it in place.
Now remeasure the shaft length and cut it off. Using a hand or bench grinder grind two flats on the shaft to match the U joint, drill a depression into the shaft where the set screw(s) land to lock the shaft into the U joint. Now reinstall the column into the truck adding a column to floor mount of your choice. It can be as simple as 3 hardware store L brackets screwed to the floor and attached to the column with a hose clamp, or as fancy as a billet swivel mount. Mount a new momentary contact pushbutton in a handy location and wire up to the horn relay. Mid Fifty now has an converter that allows the use of the steering wheel horn button, but they are a bit pricey. Enjoy your new power steering!

 

AXRACER, Your fantastic! Just the info I was looking for. One last question, If you grind a double d on the shaft is it possible to weaken the original shaft? I`m asking because of the hole in the middle. THANKS AGAIN and Merry Christmas.

 

The hole is pretty small so it will not be a problem. There are no bending forces involved to strain the shaft.

 

Thanks again AXracer. I really envy your knowledge on all things f-100. Again Happy Holidays.

 

I have a 56 that I am in process of installing the Toyota box described above but with a shortened chevy van column with shift. Has anyone done this? It looks like the shift lever on the bottom of the column will hit the outside floorboard with a U=joint AND it looks like the brake pedal (stock location) is going to hit the shift lever.

Has anyone used this exact combo adn how did you hook it up and make it work?

Thanks/Jeff