How do I get the injctor pump out? I took all lines off and undid those three nuts that seem to hold the IP in but it is still hooked up somehow. I was wondering what it will take to get another injector pump put in the motor and running right also. Any help please, I did do a search but did not really find what I was after.

 

Did you remove the 3 ..5/16 12 point bolts from under the small cover in the center/front of the oil filler housing.

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Use SUBJECT: IP removal info

 

No I did not get to those!

 

you will need the 12 point socket. those 3 bolts are in with lock tite so they will give some resistance. when you get them out, the whole thing with fuel lines still hooked to the pump should come out looking like a butterfly.
when the pump comes out you will notice a groove in the drive, that will go back into the drive gear only one way ... thus not messing up the timing too much.

 

Im about to do the same thing in my 94 7.3 IDI is it a direct bolt in deal or do you need to change the timing at all?

 

Just by the nature of replacing it you will totally disturb the timing, and there's really no way to avoid it.

The pumps have a mark on their mounting flange that aligns with a mark on the gear housing. Unfortunately the mark isn't in the same location on every pump. Apparently they set the timing at the factory, and THEN make the marks, so the marks for every pump and gear housing set are uinique. Unless you have your own pump rebuilt and reinstall it with the timing marks aligned exactly as they were before you removed the pump, the timing is going to be "off".

The good news is that although the marks are unique to each pump, they are reasonably close to being in the same location for most of the pumps. Close enough that if you align the marks after changing the pump the timing will be close enough to correct for it to run.

Setting the timing takes one of two things.
1) Special equipment - a $200-$400 timing pulse-adapter to sense the pressure pulse in #1 injector line and convert that to an electrical signal that will cause your standard inductive timing light to "fire", or
2) a practiced ear to be able to hear the "powerstroke rattle". Timing one by ear means you adjust the timing until it makes the "powerstroke rattle" sound when it is cold with the timing advance on, and just barely DOESN'T rattle (or looking at it another way it just ALMOST rattles) once it is warmed up and the cold start advance kicks off.

The easiest solution? Go to a good diesel shop that has the right tools after you replace the pump and pay them their half-hour or one-hour minimum charge to have them set it for you. Unless you happen to have a friend nearby who already has a pulse adapter. Believe it or not a few of us are lucky enough to have a friend like that - my friend's name is Malcom...

 

I had to time mine by ear.... did a darn good job if you ask me

Would 100% recomend having it done properly ( with a timing light ) for those who are not 100% confident....

 

Well, the first time I tried to set mine I got it 2 degrees ATDC - basically 10 degrees retarded. First time I'd ever worked on a diesel and I'd never even heard an IDI that was running right before though.

I ended up replacing the pump shortly thereafter. My second try at setting the timing I had a board member send me a couple of sound clips of his - one recorded with the cold advance on and one recorded after the cold advance shut off. With that as my guide I was able to set it at 10 degrees BTDC - basically 1 - 2 degrees fast.

Not too bad for a half deaf rookie.....

 

Ah, shucks!

 

Good to see you're still around friend! Haven't seen too many posts by you lately. But then I've been around a little less than normal lately myself....