GPs Test
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2005
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At the UVC connectors. You need an ohm meter. I do not remember what the reading of the ohm metering were but i think it was between .1 and 2 ohms. The glow plugs are the 2 pins to the very right and the 2 pins very left of the connector. I belive you get a ground from the block but im not sure.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
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Here is a link to a picture of the drivers side uvc harness. positive probe from multimeter on the electrical pin in the uvc harness and the negative on the block or negative battery terminal. .1 to 2 ohms is the range for good plugs. It's not the best picture but it's the harness under the green hose with two yellow wires on the outside of it and five other wires in the middle. Unhook this plug and you will see the pins inside the connecter this plug was plugged into. the pins where the yellow wires would hook up to are the ones for your gps. They are the two farthest out in the connector. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2617...99870441rkwcyE
You can also test your glow plug relay by jumping the two large terminals with a screw driver to eliminate it as the problem. Jump it for about 20 seconds when it's cold and if it starts better than it's the gpr and not the gps.
You can also test your glow plug relay by jumping the two large terminals with a screw driver to eliminate it as the problem. Jump it for about 20 seconds when it's cold and if it starts better than it's the gpr and not the gps.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 442
From: Eastern Washington
or, if you've got a multimeter or a test light just look for battery voltage on both sides of the GPR when you turn the key on when the engines cold. That'll test the relay, it's a much more common problem with cold starts.
Yes, test the glow plugs for resistance to ground.
Yes, test the glow plugs for resistance to ground.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by kbeefy
or, if you've got a multimeter or a test light just look for battery voltage on both sides of the GPR when you turn the key on when the engines cold. That'll test the relay, it's a much more common problem with cold starts.
Edit: OK folks. I've been posting about this from what I know about electronics and got tired of it. I went out and put my multimeter on both large posts of the GPR, engine off, key not in, cold as a... well you know. Hey, 12.94 volts. What do ya know? An excellent multimeter test but no test of the GPR. Everyone with me?
The GPR MUST be tested with the key on (in the WTS cycle) from the large post leading to the GPs to ground. It doesn't get any simpler than that. If there is not appropriate voltage, the GPR is suspect, or the wires leading to it, or the batteries. Again, testing between the large terminals of the GPR simply tests the multimeter and the batteries as it completes the circuit. That goes for a test light too.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Dec 18, 2006 at 12:13 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 442
From: Eastern Washington
yeah.... hmmm....
not sure what other test people have been doing, everyting I've mentioned was referenced to ground.
You could test across the gpr terminals (large) but it may confuse you if your not sure what to look for. I'd suggest against it. If you must then key on engine cold MM should read 0v between large GPR terminals, test light should go out when key is turned on until gpr de-energizes. Key off should read battery voltage, test light should light. If your not a little DC savy then ignore the last couple sentences.
Best test of GPR should be done between normally off (0v) terminal of GPR and negitive post of battery (or nearest convenient ground source).
Test your equipment before replacing any parts. PM me if you wanna know how.
not sure what other test people have been doing, everyting I've mentioned was referenced to ground.
You could test across the gpr terminals (large) but it may confuse you if your not sure what to look for. I'd suggest against it. If you must then key on engine cold MM should read 0v between large GPR terminals, test light should go out when key is turned on until gpr de-energizes. Key off should read battery voltage, test light should light. If your not a little DC savy then ignore the last couple sentences.
Best test of GPR should be done between normally off (0v) terminal of GPR and negitive post of battery (or nearest convenient ground source).
Test your equipment before replacing any parts. PM me if you wanna know how.
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