Electrical system drops dead - '98 Ranger
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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Electrical system drops dead - '98 Ranger
Good, strong battery, clean and tight connections, but: occasionally (more often than acceptable, and always at the wrong time and place) I will turn the key to start, there's a click, and the entire electrical system goes dead. No lights, no radio pre-sets, no clock, NO START. I had this happen once before and a guy told me to tap the starter solenoid with a metal bar, and sure enough, the truck started. Rather than carry a metal bar around, I replaced the starter and had no more problems - for a while.
This time I pulled the starter and had it tested. It was fine, so I put it back in and the problem was gone - again, for a while. When it happens now, I can jump the battery and the trucks starts fine. But I don't want to have to carry a jumper battery everywhere, either.
Anyone have any ideas?
This time I pulled the starter and had it tested. It was fine, so I put it back in and the problem was gone - again, for a while. When it happens now, I can jump the battery and the trucks starts fine. But I don't want to have to carry a jumper battery everywhere, either.
Anyone have any ideas?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 253
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From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
OK here are a few other things to check
1. Both Battery connections ( clean )
2. Positive connection at the selinoid ( Clean & tight )
3. Positive & negative cables for cracks & corrosion
4. Negative ground at engine block
Those should be the only places where you would lose all voltage.
1. Both Battery connections ( clean )
2. Positive connection at the selinoid ( Clean & tight )
3. Positive & negative cables for cracks & corrosion
4. Negative ground at engine block
Those should be the only places where you would lose all voltage.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
It sounds like it's time to pull the starter and CLEAN the block where it mounts. Then re-install. I'd also replace the battery cables and don't forget to ground the body as well as the engine block and frame.
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Thanks, I've got a couple things to try.
OK, Rags and pfogle, you've given me some stuff to chase down. The starter-to-block site is clean, and the battery connections are clean and tight. I haven't traced the cables for cracks or corrosion, but will replace them for replacement's sake - the truck is a '98 and has 177+k miles. And when I replace the cables, I'll replace the ground as well, although it looks fine at first glance.
But given that any of these conditions exist, why would a battery jump work?
Thanks for the input so far - you guys are great. Does anyone else have any other ideas? I don't want to leave anything out.
But given that any of these conditions exist, why would a battery jump work?
Thanks for the input so far - you guys are great. Does anyone else have any other ideas? I don't want to leave anything out.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
Being that a jump start gets it going I would suspect problems at the battery terminals!
Possibaly an internal battery problem such as a broken post inside or an intermitent short in the battery. See if you have any movement at the posts and check where the wires connect to the post.
Possibaly an internal battery problem such as a broken post inside or an intermitent short in the battery. See if you have any movement at the posts and check where the wires connect to the post.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 970
Likes: 3
Get some internal/ external lock washers and install them between each battery
cable connection, (at the solenoid terminals, starter terminals on one of the starter bolts, all of the ground connectors and between the starter solenoid
mounting bracket and the fender panel). It just seems like to flat pieces will
corrode and give a problem, I started to do this a long time ago and I found
it stops the repeat problems later on. By the way a lot of people don't know
that solenoid must have a good ground thru it's mounting. My 2 cents worth.
cable connection, (at the solenoid terminals, starter terminals on one of the starter bolts, all of the ground connectors and between the starter solenoid
mounting bracket and the fender panel). It just seems like to flat pieces will
corrode and give a problem, I started to do this a long time ago and I found
it stops the repeat problems later on. By the way a lot of people don't know
that solenoid must have a good ground thru it's mounting. My 2 cents worth.
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