Stalling at idle
Anyways, cold start- cold weather, it was idling high (as per normal) but stumbling and stalling. I replaced air filter, distributor and rotor, and plug wires. The problem got better but didn't go away. Reading recent posts here about the IAC I removed and cleaned it (it was filthy). I soaked it in cleaner overnight and used about fifty Q-tips to get it clean. That made the cold idle smooth, but now after the engine warms and the idle steps down, it stumbles for 45-60 seconds, sometimes stalling, before evening out again to a normal warm idle. During driving (at stoplights) it will periodically enter that stumbling phase and maybe stall. No vaccuum leaks (18" @ idle). Any ideas on what to look at next?
Thanks guys.
I believe it "learns" to compensate for a sticky IAC and if you clean it without resetting the computer you'll have trouble. I'm not sure if that would be true on an older truck, but it's easy enough that it would be the first thing I'd try.
john112deere, yes I did, but only for about five minutes. Others here have said 20 minutes or 30 minutes when recommending resetting the comp so it can learn. How long do you think I should leave it disconnected? I did an ohm check across the IAC terminals and read 10.8 on the 200 range, so I think it's good.
Thanks for your responses!
I believe it "learns" to compensate for a sticky IAC and if you clean it without resetting the computer you'll have trouble. I'm not sure if that would be true on an older truck, but it's easy enough that it would be the first thing I'd try.
I'm no EFI guru, but I've never heard anyone claim that resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery after altering one of the components would cause problems. It won't solve any problems as a stand-alone repair, either, though.
Alto, I tend to disconnect mine for at least 15-30 minutes; usually just disconnect it as the first thing I do, and reconnect it as the last step of the job. I'm not sure what length is the minimum to reset it, though.


