tires-dually
#4
Best size for what? What is it you're looking for? More height, width, off-road tread, quiet, etc. . .
If you want taller and wider, you can fit up to a 255/85/16 on the stock rims and suspension. Other than that a 245/75/16 would be about 2" shorter, but slightly wider than stock and a 255/70/16 would be 2" shorter and an 1" wider than stock.
If you want taller and wider, you can fit up to a 255/85/16 on the stock rims and suspension. Other than that a 245/75/16 would be about 2" shorter, but slightly wider than stock and a 255/70/16 would be 2" shorter and an 1" wider than stock.
#7
No. You'll lose less than 1/2" between the tires, and you'd have to be aired down really, really low w/a really heavy load (overweight) to get them to rub and even then, rubbing is unlikely. One is 9.3" and the other 10" wide.
When I see them, they're usually BFG MT's. According to Tirerack there's also a Dunlop Radial Rover AT in that size.
When I see them, they're usually BFG MT's. According to Tirerack there's also a Dunlop Radial Rover AT in that size.
Last edited by EnviroCon; 12-14-2006 at 12:10 AM.
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#8
I got 285, as listed below, but am 2wd so I had to install a leveling kit on the front suspen. to accomodate the taller and wider tires. If your going that route I'd recommend Intalling the Pro Comp 2wd Front lift kit instead. After 2 alignemts, installing adjustable cams, ball joints, tie rods (needed these anyways before all this) and some back yard grinding on the knuckles (not mine) for better turning clearance, I feel it would have been cheaper to install the lift kit. As for the rear they barely rub, I installed 2 -1/4" on each side to give me a good gap, I keep alot of tool in the back of the truck all the time, the bed is full. You prob. could get away with one set of spacers if you don't tow of haul alot of stuff, the spacers typicaly run $5 each.
#10
#11
There's, give or take, 1.5" difference in height (according to Ford Specs.) between a 4x2 and a 4x4, so having a 4x4 will help a little. However, with a 33"x11.3" (285/75/16) tires you're going to have some clearance issues up front with the springs (w/steering at full-lock), bumper valance, and maybe the back portion of the wheel well liner. The valance can be trimmed or the bumper shimmed-out. And the wheel well liner can be re-formed with a little heat to accommodate the tire. But the springs are bit of a problem. Keep in mind you'd also be running a 11+" wide tire on a 6" wide rim so tire wear will be strange and you probably won't get the same mileage out of them as someone running them on an 8" wide rim.
As for the rear, I really don't recommend running "slip-on" type spacers with hubcentric wheels for two main reasons:
1. With slip-on type spacers, the spacer prevents the outer wheel from being able to mount on the hub (the same reason that Ford uses one steel and one alloy wheel and not two alloys). This means that the lugs are now forced to carry weight they weren't designed to carry and over time this will cause problems, possibly even leading to the failure of the lugs.
2. Leverage! With the slip-on spacer there, you're not only putting weight on the lugs (which, with hubcentrics, the lugs are meant to hold the wheel to the hub, not transfer weight) the spacer is pushing the wheel further out on the lug causing more leverage, increasing the bending load. Same possible result as above.
As for the rear, I really don't recommend running "slip-on" type spacers with hubcentric wheels for two main reasons:
1. With slip-on type spacers, the spacer prevents the outer wheel from being able to mount on the hub (the same reason that Ford uses one steel and one alloy wheel and not two alloys). This means that the lugs are now forced to carry weight they weren't designed to carry and over time this will cause problems, possibly even leading to the failure of the lugs.
2. Leverage! With the slip-on spacer there, you're not only putting weight on the lugs (which, with hubcentrics, the lugs are meant to hold the wheel to the hub, not transfer weight) the spacer is pushing the wheel further out on the lug causing more leverage, increasing the bending load. Same possible result as above.
#12
My truck as it sits right now has no clearance issues hard over either way, also was parked next to a King Ranch 4x4 today and the height of bumpers and hood, tow hooks are nearly the same, less than 1/4" diff. As for the outer alloy rim sitting on the hub, no way, my alloy doesn't touch the hud even without the spacer on. The steel rim does however and when the truck was new had to hit the tire with a small sledge to get it off. There are several other duallies in my area running larger fatter tires than me most are 4x4 and most are lifted on the stock rims with rear spacers. Not dissagreeing with the added stress that is caused by the wheels being offset, but if you do not tow heavy, or haul heavy you shouldn't have any problems. I would not have choosen the set up I have if I haul or tow alot.
#14
I don't blame you for sticking with the stock size. I bought my truck for towing my toys, and got the dually for that little bit of extra stability while towing. Little did I know how big of a PITA it would be to fit a 35" tire to give me the clearance I needed, to go to the places I like, and still keep the truck safe for everyday driving and towing. I'm not so sure I'd do it again.
#15
Originally Posted by EnviroCon
I don't blame you for sticking with the stock size. I bought my truck for towing my toys, and got the dually for that little bit of extra stability while towing. Little did I know how big of a PITA it would be to fit a 35" tire to give me the clearance I needed, to go to the places I like, and still keep the truck safe for everyday driving and towing. I'm not so sure I'd do it again.