Airaid, to replace or not to replace?
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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Airaid, to replace or not to replace?
So I was having a conversation with MonsterBaby the other day about my Airaid intake...
He mentioned several FTE guys had experienced problems with this particular brand of intake and filter and suggested I thoroughly examine my system so as not to shoot myself in the foot later on in life.
When I did my fluid changes this weekend I cleaned and recharged the filter. I took a brand new clean rag and wiped the inside of the intake piping that leads to the turbo, and it was spotless. The filter doesn't seem to be sucking any dust or dirt through the filter. I do keep it fairly clean though, it gets recharged every 3-5,000 miles.
I know you guys all have the Kwik filter and are fond of your results.
Anyone else have any negative words about the Airaid?
He mentioned several FTE guys had experienced problems with this particular brand of intake and filter and suggested I thoroughly examine my system so as not to shoot myself in the foot later on in life.
When I did my fluid changes this weekend I cleaned and recharged the filter. I took a brand new clean rag and wiped the inside of the intake piping that leads to the turbo, and it was spotless. The filter doesn't seem to be sucking any dust or dirt through the filter. I do keep it fairly clean though, it gets recharged every 3-5,000 miles.
I know you guys all have the Kwik filter and are fond of your results.
Anyone else have any negative words about the Airaid?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
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From: 21791
How much of a pain is it to recharge? Replacing the homemade tymar filter (kwik converted to AIS so i can't use that anymore, convert!) takes all of about 56 seconds including popping the hood. Changing it at 50K miles even, is still overkill, and the filter is only $20. 5ppm silicon on my last analysis which is excellent.
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
How much of a pain is it to recharge? Replacing the homemade tymar filter (kwik converted to AIS so i can't use that anymore, convert!) takes all of about 56 seconds including popping the hood. Changing it at 50K miles even, is still overkill, and the filter is only $20. 5ppm silicon on my last analysis which is excellent.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
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From: iowa
Well since I started this discussion, if your air intake is staying clean and you have it on there I would say go ahead and keep it, but just make sure everytime you change your oil to go ahead and check the air intake. I wonder if the problems with the K&N filter has to do with not keeping it cleaned often enough.
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby
Well since I started this discussion, if your air intake is staying clean and you have it on there I would say go ahead and keep it, but just make sure everytime you change your oil to go ahead and check the air intake. I wonder if the problems with the K&N filter has to do with not keeping it cleaned often enough.
Well hey there! Yes I checked it out solely on your advise and was pleased to see it so clean in there. Actually the next time you in an auto parts store take a look at one of the K&N filter packages. It says right on there that it's important to properly clean and maintain the filters for performance. I think the oil that is applied to the filter after cleaning plays an important part in keeping out foreign objects.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by monsterbaby
Yep your right, I use K&N on the race truck and have to clean it often.
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Smokin
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Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Yeah, a PITA. I know, I have used many and they must be air dried. Try something else if you want but that degrades the element. I like the K&N in the 150, but not in my PSD. I just put a stock filter on until the K&N is fully dry. A man can drink way too many beers waiting on the K&N to air dry.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
i personally don't like the idea of an oiled filter on a turbocharged engine, much less a 7.3L engine. Have you ever had the air filter off, and just have the intake piece coming off the turbo. If youre not careful it will suck your hand in faster than you can think how many times that compressor wheel will turn before it is at your third knuckle. Anyway it sucks in alot of air, about the equivalent of 20,000 gallons of air for one gallon of fuel. The oil on the filter traps dirt, and the oil could easily be pulled off of the filter if not done 100% correctly.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,965
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From: H-town, MN
Makes sense, but if it is working so far why replace it. I run the same, Airaid intake, and I have had no problems. Thought about something different, but I just can't see the paper filters letting a lot of air in, or maybe I am just naive.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
I was referring to K&Ns exclusively, myself. My experience with those tell me I don't want that for my PSD.
Smokin, I just know that those K&Ns take forever to air dry. Oiling them before 100% dry is a bad mistake as it will not saturate like it should. Not sure about your setup.
Smokin, I just know that those K&Ns take forever to air dry. Oiling them before 100% dry is a bad mistake as it will not saturate like it should. Not sure about your setup.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
I guess i have that wierd state of mind where i can act as if i am a piece of oil on the filter getting sucked off of the filter media and into the turbo. That wheel spins fast and it doesnt take much to destroy it. Personal preference i guess? 
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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Well I don't plan on doing any hard driving or towing until late spring/summer, so I'll look at changing the setup sometime around then. For the present moment? I need to figure out if I have a bad GP relay or bad GP's, it tops my list on most important things to worry about on the truck I guess.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
gp controller is an easy test (to eliminate it, then you can trace further as needed) using a test light, have someone turn on the ignition and for the time the wait to start light is on, you should have power to both of the large terminals, if yes then the controller is good, if no then doing the same test check for power on the small terminal if no then you need to trace that out and find out why if you have power to the small terminal but not to both large terminals the GP controller is bad.