Anyone used this stuff? They claim that you can apply it, bolt up whatever you are making a gasket for, and it will be instantly opperational. Worth the $$$?

 

Yuck, another way to gum up the inside of an engine with all sorts of goo squeezed out into it. I have seen an oil pump ruined by a speck of Permatex the size of a grain of salt.

 

I guess it just depends what your doing. I wouldn't trust it on a car, maybe on a lawnmower.

 

bye new gaskets and use rv red when needed

 

I don't care what they claim, I let it sit for a few hours at least. On engine rebuilds and intake gaskets I let it sit for 24 hours. Gasket maker or reg. RTV. About the only place I would use gasket maker and put the vehicle right back into service is a rear diff gasket on a plastic cover.

 

they had a guy from permatex come and talk to us at school and he said it would be perfectly fine but i wouldn't trust it.

 

i work on big diesel's. this engine was built in 1945 and ran all the way up to last august with no major problems. I have changed out heads(individual heads), liners and piston, before but thats not real major stuff. but some idiot used Permatex on the valve cover to hold the gaskit in place, and a piece about the size of a BB had fallen off and got stuck in the oil pump. starved the main bearings of oil and chewed the crankshaft up real bad. and since its soo old there isn't many spare parts around any more, a perfectly good tug boat is rusting away all because some one used that stuff.

like rebocardo said- only use it on diffs.

 

I won't attest to the Permatex, but I will certify GE Silicone. Clear or White. Walmart for $4 a tube. As in caulking. They are both similar. I have used permatex on water pumps. Apply and bolt on with no problems. Making a gasket would be somewhat different.

I have also used it to (Permatex Black) for Valve Cover gaskets letting it dry completely before installing. Also for (temp fix) freeze plugs. After time, oil will eat it and it will start leaking.

A few years ago, I converted an old coal stoker stove to a wood burner. I extended the fire box to 18 inches. I could put 9 pieces of Hickory in at a time. It would burn for most of 24 hours without adding wood.

I used old painted metal sign board for ductwork, bending and making it myself. I put the furnace outside In a privacy wall, and piped in the 20 inch duct to the garage. I used GE Silicone to seal the joints before bolting up, and then used furnace tape to wrap it.

I also used the GE Silicone to seal around the flu pipe (inside the air box, and out) to eliminate any possibility of smoke or cold air seeping into the air box to get into the garage. I let it set up completely before starting up the furnace.

Now heres the deal.....

Having 9 pieces of Hickory in the box, to initially warm up the garage I would burn it hot enough that I burnt the paint completely off the main duct to the garage in a couple start ups. Smoked it right off!!!

The GE Silicone?

Still just as tight and solid as initially set. No drips, no runs, no separation. Out of curiosity, I borrowed a temp gauge from a friend that does glass to see what kind of temps the air was running during the burn. His gauge only measured heat to 650 degrees.

The metal was getting pretty pliable a max temp, but it took 450 degrees to smoke the paint. No effect on the GE Silicone.

If I use anything now, it is GE Silicone.

My 2 $ worth

 

I wouldn't use it to make a gasket but have used thin coats to help seal. It also makes a good glue. I've used it to install mirrors and trim on cars before and nothing has fallen apart yet.

 

I have use it on several oil pans, transmission pans, valve covers, etc...does a fine job sealing, I have had not additional issues since the use--it works great, just be methodical when applying ---if you are sloppy I could see an issue...but if you are sloppy, you shouldn't be under the hood anyway---LOL!

I am talking about "the right stuff", not any of the other permatex "gorilla snot" products...

Land Rover recommends this on there high end Range Rover for Oil Pans as well...that says a lot considering those are $80k+ vehicles...

just my $.02.

 

There's "cake decorator" and there's "correct application"
The cake decorators are the one's that ruin the engines.
Let it sit for 24 hours with no fluids in the engine at all before pouring anything in.

 

I use "the right stuff" all of the time at work. Have had zero problems with it. works well for sealing intake manifolds to the block, absolutely no need to wait. It is an excellent gasket maker.

 

When possible, I install a real gasket dry, or with Hi-Tack to hold it in place. On my Subaru, I used only Hi-Tack between the case halves, and have used it on the stamped steel valley pan/intake gasket combos with no issues. Most gaskets are best installed dry, I have found that most, especially valve cover gaskets, leak the least when installed dry. The only gaskets I have really -made- were intake end seals, but I used Import Grey RTV on those, and let it cure 24hrs.

 

Well JMHO is if ya was to use sealer of some kind then it would come with the gasket. I use thread to hold gasket and install dry. I got no leaks.

 

Absolutely correct, Dan!

I would always let it cure, but the key point about it squeezing out and getting into everything: Don't OVERDO IT.

I've had a few Triumph TR7's, and like any British sportscar, it leaked oil no matter what.

The last two times I rebuilt a TR7 engine (one for a girly-friend of mine), I used red RTV on everything - sparingly. No more leaks.

And you couldn't even tell I used RTV on it...

Good stuff, but you don't need a lot.

AND - make sure all surfaces are completely clean and oil and grease-free - it won't stick and will leak like a sieve...