I'm restoring a 50 F-100 and considering the options with ifs without having to pull out a 2nd mortgage. I had someone tell me he used the frame of a 78 T-bird for a 49 F-100 and was done in half a day without any fabrication. I just happen to have a 78 bird and was wondering if anyone has done this or seen it done???. Are wheelbase specs the same?? Thanks in advance

 

I don't know how the wheelbase compares,you may want to consider a complete body transfer of truck to t-b frame. There seem's to be more of this typestuff being done. I realize it would take some planing and thought ,most of all a lot of work. That would give you a nice modern undercarriage and driveline. Eng,tran,diff,hiwy axle ratio.steering, etc.
This may not be practical. My x-brotherinlaw is talking putting his 53 f100 on a lincoln. A friend put a 53 panel w/ a lot of customizing on a chevy malibu. Good luck
chuck

 

This definately isn't the first time I have heard someone speak of the T-Bird conversion. The easiest ay to decide is to take the usual measurements: wheelbase, frame width at the required mounts, axle width and go for it if it looks do-able.

Mine is on an '83 Ranger. I recommend a full frame swap all the way.

Good luck, and let us know how it works out!

/Kris
Winnipeg, Canada

1950 F-47
1977 XS650
1997 F150XL

 

>Mine is on an '83 Ranger. I recommend a full frame swap all
>the way.

>/Kris

Kris, How did the Ranger frame turn out, was it a short or long wheelbase Ranger. I know where I can get a short wheelbase cheap. I have a 460 w/ c6 auto i plan on running in her.

460 w/30 over flattop TRWs, polished weiand stealth cj intake, 500 lift crower cam and solid lifters, 429 cj heads w/ screw in studs, stainless valves w/ 4 angle job, Fred Jones crank, unilite distributor, 750 holley double pumper, adj. roller rockers, hooker headers, polished aluminum SVO valve covers. c6 auto w/ Fairbanks shift kit ,extra clutches and cobra jet servo. SWEEET!!!

Can't wait to hear it run.

Thanks, Scott

 

Ranger frame is from a 1983 Regular cab longbox.

Frame is 1/2" narrower, resolved by welding 1/4" plate to each side at the rear cab mounts and running board mounts. Frame horns at front cut off and new x-member made for rad cradle.

Steering is way easier than a fullsize due to the angle of the shaft (no u-joints!)

I used a rear fuel tank from a Bronco II (or Ranger Diesel). I don't remember why I did that though, as the saddle tank would have been just fine.

The truck sits about 1" lower than stock. I was aiming for something that looked stock but was easy to maintain.

I have a 302 and power steering in mine. A 460 in a Ranger may cause serious weight issues. For a 460, I would look around for a heavier donor.

/Kris

 

I bought a 79 cougar just for the engine. Never had one of these cars, and I'm sure they had a nice ride and everything, but while I was underneath taking the motor loose, I looked around at the frame and was totally disgusted at the workmanship and they way it was designed. Get under there and you will see what I mean. The frame must be in at least three maybe more, pieces, all spliced together down each side. It goes from an open channel, to a SMALL boxed section and then has another piece welded in the back. And the welds looked terrible. Look at your original ONE PIECE truck frame and there is no question I would never swap something like that under my old truck.

 

I had a 78 Cougar XR7 and a 79 Bird coupe, 77-9 share the same basic body shells. I believe the frame was designed to be used across several body styles, there was a 4dr with a longer WB, not sure about a wagon. Then there were also several engine and tranny choices.
I junked the 79 after about 250K and serious body rot but the frame was still solid.....all its life in the rust belt.
Those werent Fomoco's best years and wouldnt be suprised if the frame and its sections cover across other models.
Dont know about the 460, that thing is wide. I believe the 302, 351M and 400 were the options those years. Bought the XR7 new with the 351M

 

I've got a friend with a '78 Tbird frame under his 48 F1 Panel Truck. It's an awesome truck with airbag suspension, custom grill, dash, etc. To hear him describe it, it wasn't a hard installation, but he has a full motorhome repair facility at his disposal!

Tim in Burien

 

I don't know how this applys to the discusion, but here goes. I bought a 90 Lincoln Town Car for a donor. At $800, it was a good deal. I originally wanted the engine, transmission, steering, and seats. When I got the body off of the frame, I saw the same thing. For one, the majority of the frame was way too wide to use on my 57 F100. Plus the wheelbase was about 6" longer than the truck (can you believe a car longer than a truck). Plus the rear mount, while having a state of the art (for 1990) air bag suspension, it would have meant serious cutting inside my bed. I decided to cut off the front clip (only held on with a very few ugly stitch welds) and welded it to my front on the truck. Bad choice. I did mount the 8.8 axle reversed on the original truck springs. I now have a truck that is so low I can't get under it; a hole in the firewall so the back of the motor can clear; a steering wheel that is almost into my chest; and a mess of wires from trying to get the EFI to work!

Moral of this long story (IMHBAO): stay original until you can either afford a 1.) aftermarket mustang II, 2.) buy a newly built frame, or 3.) something breaks!

Glenn in TN waiting for Pigeon Forge!

 

Glenn,

It sounds like your project was poorly planned from the very beginning.

My '50 on a Ranger frame with 302/C4 is the first truck I ever tried this level of customization on, and it has been a joy start to finish. It required hours of careful measuring, fabrication of custom mounts, a few new crossmembers, some research at the library about automobile wiring systems, and hours more laying under the frame planning where cables and lines would run. All of the parts I have used came from local scrapyards and the entire truck is Ford (83 Ranger Frame, 75 F100 engine/tranny/wiring/fuel delivery/pedals). The finished product looks stock, rides nice, and I can shop at PartSource for anything that may fail. Total investment before bodywork and paint, about $1500.

Anything is possible if you are willing to take your time and plan ahead. Hopefully no newcomers are discouraged by your less than enthusiastic description of your ride.

Just my $.02
/Kris:-X12

 

Glenn

Keep your chin up. Most everyone has gotten in a little over their head in something or other at some point in their life. Unfortunately the route you took would have been very difficult to pull off for anyone less than a very skilled fabricator. A Mustang II is certainly an easier route. A Volare IFS is also a good route for the moderately experienced if your budget is modest. You know this never would have happened if you had just stayed in the house and watched TV every weekend. Your truck isn't ruined. You just need a different frame! By the way, if you click on my gallery or FTE member website, you will see my 53. When I bought it, it had a botched Volare install.

Merry Christmas,
Dewayne