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stuck spool valve

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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 03:18 PM
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stuck spool valve

I think thats the prob, how do I isolate which one? I have the Helm manual with instructions to change them but no scanner. Is it a bad idea to simply unplug one at a time? Im sure its going to throw a bunch of codes. Can a shop other than the stealership clear them? Is it a bad idea to try to do it myself, seems pretty straightforward. Any comments apreciated.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 03:30 PM
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I dont think the "stealership" will do anything for you, you might try a dealership.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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Sorry no offence intended. I was hoping to be able to fix it myself. Any help humbly appreciated.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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Parts houses (napa, autozone, etc.) will generally scan for codes hopefully selling you their scan tool. You might try that. With a code (or dtc) you will have a place to start. The dealership will charge you a minimum fee (usually their flat rate, or a diagnostic fee). But the information they'll supply is more accurate.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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If theres no CEL is there a code?. Have you seen many stuck spool valves? The truck sure seems like it is dead in one cyl. Engine build date Oct 03. Not sure exactly what injectors. I have heard others say they still have all original c-94s is that bad? I dont think they have ever been worked on before. If I understand correctly the dealership will only replace the faulty injector, is that the case? Sorry for all the questions, thank you for the help so far.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 04:32 PM
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OCT 03 are c95 injectors. A stuck spool valve would involve changing a complete injector which can be quite a chore depending on which side it's on (passenger). If you have no experience then it might be advisable to take it to a dealership (check for QUALIFIED 6.0 tech).

Just because you don't have a CEL doesn't mean there isn't a code. I don't think you get a CEL with a cylinder contribution code (which means one cylinder isn't "right").
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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The early 6.0 was prone to injector issues. I replaced hundreds of them. The dealership is limited to the replacement of only the defective ones under warranty. If you want to bear the expense yourself, I'm sure they'll do it. The stuck injectors usually show up more on first start, then get better after it warms up. The latest flash deals primarily with "stiction". If you havent got it yet, that might be a good start. To accurately diagnose which one is bad, the dealership needs to check with the IDS/WDS power balance function at first start. The non contributing injector(s) will show up there.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 05:06 PM
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It always runs like it is missing now. I had hoped it would clear up after warm up but no such luck. I worked as a mechanic for a while and have done a few things. Is there a home mechanic priced scanner that is adequit for these types of jobs and is it worth the dough? I dont have the latest flash just o5e15. I have an appt. monday morning at 9am to have the dealer look at it. I am guessing they will reflash to start then go from there.Are the c-95s good or bad?
 

Last edited by bendog; Dec 10, 2006 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 05:21 PM
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My recomendation would be going to the dealership and asking the tech if he would mind if you watched, so you will be able to do it in the future. Its not a real difficult job, but there is several ways to foul up (like using the proper tool to torque down the hold-down). And no, you dont have the latest flash.The scanners have to deal with "CAN module" compatibility.
 
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