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Trouble started yesterday when my passanger tried to put down his window.
It was frozen with ice. Truch is a 2001 F-150 XLT with the 4.2
I then noticed the radio didnt work and the truck starting to miss and chug.
We got back to the jobsite and the batt light was on. I shut her off and click click wouldnt start. I boosted it and started right up all was good again. Drove home no prob. This morning I started it and Batt light came on and wipers slow and I shut her off and click click. I took my 94 F-150 for the day and when I got home I tried her and she started but the Batterie light is on.
Question I have is the batterie at fault or the Alternator is going on the fritz
Where do I start
Michael in Ontario Canada
Brrrrr its gettin cold out
Last edited by ford-m; Dec 8, 2006 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: add stuff
Get a volt-meter and measure the voltage across the battery - any reading less than 12V may indicate a weak battery.
If you can jump and get the engine started, measure the voltage across the battery with the engine running, it should read between 13.5 to 14.5 Volts, indicating the charging system is functioning.
I wish they never put a battery on the instrument cluster warning guages. They should have put an alternator. But most women dont know what an alternator is so I guess the battery light is what it is.
If your charging system light comes on, also known as the battery light, you have a charging system fault. A low battery will never cause the battery light to come on, but a faulted charging system can and will cause the battery to drain and thus the failure to start.
It is a common failure on the F150 to have water in the fusebox and gem module after a storm which can cause charging system failure, but is usually accompanied by a number of other faults including a heater fan that stays running after the engine is shut down, air bag faults, abs system faults, power windows, power door locks etc.
At this time you need to get a charging system test if the charging system is the only fault at this time. Best not to drive it or you may become stranded. If you fully charge the battery before leaving for the shop you should be able to make it there if it isnt over 5 miles or so.
Thanks fellas. III do the voltage checkin tommorow. Is the altenator a trade in deal or can the brushes be changed. I have a Haynes manual to help me with a swap if that ls the problem
Cheers
Michael in Ontario Canada
Probably a diode pack and brushes would fix it, but I havent seen people do that for ages. Just get a decent reman from a reputable parts supplier in your area with a decent warranty. If you want to pay Ford to install it they provide a one year parts and labor warranty.
Thank you again for your quick reply
Im very hands on so III tackle this one tommorow. I restor Model A's so how hard could this be LOL
I hate when I have to go to the dealer for it costs a kings ransom.
I have to say I dont gen many problems with my fords just stupid things like coils going or a leaky sun roof shorting out the fuse panel.
On the topic of coils I have had 3 now go in my 2001 F-150, 2 in our Navigatior
Whats with these going??
Some of them fail due to antifreeze contamination from a leaking heater hose. Some just have the boots fail on them, usually due to oil contamination or antifreeze contamination. You can buy the boots separately but most places just stock the entire coil. Otherwise it is due to global market build quality and engineering. We technicians have enought to worry about just to keep them running, and we just dont have time to get into the engineering aspects or queries.
All done
It was the alt. $185.00 and I got the 130amp alt
Thank you all for the info provided.
Now to tackle the ball joints on my 94 F150 Looks like its going to be fun
Michael