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Will a block heated cause overheating?

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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Will a block heater cause overheating?

I have an 86 F250 with the original 6.9 - I purchased it a little over a year ago. When the weather dips into the 20's, it is a little hard to start, so I decided to start plugging in the block heater when I wake up in the morning. I leave it on for about an hour while I shower and get the kids up and ready.

It helped me get going on my way. Today, though, I had an interesting problem. I got about 3 miles from the house and the temperature guage started creeping up. By the time I got halfway up the mountain, I had to pull over and shut it off while I watched steam rolling out from under the hood. I opened the hood and let it cool down for a few minutes, then decided to turn around and limp back home before I caused serious damage. On the way back, it actually started cooling down and the temp gauge was only sitting at 1/3 by the time I got back.

I have never had an issue with overheating since I owned the truck. In fact I thought it ran too cool (perhaps a missing thermostat?).

I thought you could run a block heater for 3-4 hours before starting, or am I mistaken? Could a block heater cause the over heating?
 

Last edited by briansrapier; Dec 6, 2006 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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Sounds to me like you've got a sticking thermostat. Only way a block heater could cause overheating problems is if it boiled the water and the check ball in the thermostat housing was stopped up and not letting the air out from behind the thermostat.

Jeff
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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Not likely to be the block heater. Can't imagine how it could cause overheating.

Based on your statements that it ususally runs cool, suddenly ran hot, then started cooling down, I'd about bet you have a sticking thermostat. It has been sticking open most of the time, but for whatever reason it broke loose and stuck closed this morning.

Anyway, that would be my best guess - it certainly would fit the symptoms...

EDIT: beat me to it by one minute mechmgcn....
 

Last edited by CheaperJeeper; Dec 6, 2006 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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Well, after looking at the condition of the coolant this morning, I know for a fact that the system is in need of flushing. I wish I would have thought to check it out before it started getting cold. I really need to set up a wood stove in my barn.

I'll probably just go ahead and pull it. Better a few bucks and busted knuckles now than a cracked block.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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It would be a good time to replace thermostat and antifreeze. Do a radiator flush to any crud out of radiator. Replace with antifreeze that is designed for diesels.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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What was the coolant freeze protection level, it will freeze rad ASAP if it is below required FZ Point level. You would then have a restricted rad and the engine temp would go up.........since no coolant is circulating.

Remember to put 8 ozs of DCA4 or Ford VC8 in the coolant........ then test it after 5 days of running with SCA test strips......maintain SCAs in the coolant or nasty things can happen..............Cavitation.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:40 AM
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Ok, here's a weird one: Last night I did a quick flush and refill, then fired it up and repeated the same route just to see if the over heating issue reoccurred. It didn't. But, right from the time I turned the key, the engine temp idiot light started flickering. When accelerating or driving at a constant speed (level road), it goes out. If I slow down, it flickers. If I let off the accelerator completely, it comes on solid.

Air bubble?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Sounds like a wiring problem. When the engine flexes/twists on the motor mounts a wire somewhere is either not making connection or is grounding out. Depending on how the circuit is designed. Don't have my books here at work. Maybe someone with diagram can help.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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Try removing and reinstalling the connector for the light switch.
This picture is the front of the drivers side head.

The AC compressor normally blocks the view of both sending units at the same time unless you are on top of the engine.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 07:53 AM
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Thanks, Dave. Helpful as always.
 
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