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1994 Explorer Transmission Lines

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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 10:20 PM
  #1  
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1994 Explorer Transmission Lines

Hi guys,

On my 1994 Explorer, I just replaced the rubber auto tranny cooler lines and changed the oil and filter. I was leaking transmission fluid, and it appears to be coming only from the area around those lines (transmission itself is dry).

After I finished, I noticed it is still leaking fluid a few days later. I got back under and noticed that the metal lines are very rusty (just above a crossmember and I didn't notice this before). I'd like to replace them, but have an important question.

Since I don't want a surprise shower while I'm under there, do I need to drain the pan again before I pull the metal cooler lines out of the tranny to replace them? Or, do they enter high enough on the tranny so they are out of most of the fluid?

Also, at the local parts stores, they only have "bulk" lines, I would have to bend them myself to match the originals. Does Ford sell them pre-bent? If not, are there plugs that I can place into the tranny while I'm bending the new lines so I don't lose too much fluid?

Mike
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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Your going to want to drain the transmission first before you go replacing lines.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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You will have to bend the lines yourself. Ford dealers will tell that they only sell 'bulk lines' which means you have to bend them yourself. Much cheaper at any auto store. Pretty easy job. Make sure you soak the fittings with PBlaster or WD40 first.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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if it has not run for a day nt too much will drain out.

lay down some plastic and rags and an oil drain pan or two.


i just did a sable's trans line and a water pump on my f150 with radiator out and only a little trans fluid poured out.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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Thanks guys, Happy New Year!

Before I read these replies, I did check with the Ford dealer, they also confirmed the bulk line issue.

My bigger problem is that I'm losing more fluid than is showing up in the driveway, which makes me think the vaccuum modulator could be toast. I've also had lines blow off the vaccuum tree on occasion, though not recently.

I've posted a few questions about this, have any of you replaced this part, and do you have tips on how to best access the modulator part? The dealer said they would remove the exhaust pipes, etc.

Removing the exhaust sounds like overkill to me, especially since the pipes are original and we're over 260,000 miles (we all know that's a recipe for disaster, at work we call this SCOPE CREEP!).

Any suggestions from you here would be greatly appreciated!

Mike
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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chiltons does not say to drop exhaust.

only A4LD trans. use vacuum diaphram (modulator)

disconnect battery

raise vehicle and safely support it

disconnect hose from vacuum diaphram

remove bolt and clamp, do not pry on it

pull v.d. from case and remove the v.d. control rod from trans. case

install is reverse

80 to 106 inch pound on bolt
 
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:15 AM
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the ford repair cd does not say drop the exhaust either.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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If yours is a 94, it IS an A4LD...
 
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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that is why i put the instructions for how to do it on an A4LD.

i am sorry if i was not clear.
 
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