It's Alive!!!!!!
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
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From: Escondido, CA
It's Alive!!!!!!
I finally installed the lifters today. It took 2 1/2 hours to set the valves, torque the intake , carb setup, fill the cooling system, install and roughly set the distributor, bolt on the valve covers, and start it up. I only had one set back, I didn't label the power and tach wire for my HEI so I put them in backwards. Good news is that I didn't blow the curcuit. Swapped the wires and it started after a couple of seconds. After 20 minutes I had to shut it down though. I forgot to put a fan in front of the radiator and started to boil over. I shut it down then waited until the system cooled off enough to pull the coolant back in. I also took my own advice and stuck a meat thermometer in the radiator fins to check my temp guage. I am running 20 degrees cooler on the guage then the thermometer, go figure. So now all I have to do is install the inner valve springs, change the oil, retorque the head and intake bolts, and bolt the hood on to drive it around. I will post pictures of the finished project tomorrow. I am still working on the fan shroud so that will come later. I need to take a 12 pack of Coors Light to work to pay the welder for his time to TIG pieces together. I love cheap labor.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,785
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From: Mddl A MexCans
So with the over heat you think all is ok ? Dose that setup have to mate like the basic FE flat tappet scenario ?
12pk ? I'll bring a few cases if he'll patch in the dings on my bed
I am thinking to rent a TIG but with 0 xprnce with one might be better to find someone I can afford LOL
12pk ? I'll bring a few cases if he'll patch in the dings on my bed
I am thinking to rent a TIG but with 0 xprnce with one might be better to find someone I can afford LOL
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Mark, You have a couple issues, a probe stuck between the fins of a radiator will not give the same reading as a probe in the stream. Second unless you have tested them, both could be reading off a few degrees. IMHO
John
John
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Heart of Ga.
Originally Posted by jowilker
Mark, You have a couple issues, a probe stuck between the fins of a radiator will not give the same reading as a probe in the stream. Second unless you have tested them, both could be reading off a few degrees. IMHO
John
John
Frank
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
I was looking for a mean average as to what the guage was showing and what was happening. The guage read 180 but I was boiling over into the reservior. I used the thermometer to see what was going on as a secondary. Remember the engine driven fan is pretty much useless beyond idling or stop and go traffic. I was running the engine at 1500-2000 rpm for a total of 30 minutes. That is why I needed the external fan blowing air over the fins to help cool it down. Around 195-200 degrees on the thermometer I was seeing the temps regulate with another fan blowing. At 20 miles an hour you are already pushing more air through then the fan can pull. Another reason to get the fan shroud built before the summer months to help increase the effectiveness of the engine driven fan. I have a new engine temp guage that has a wet bulb sender attatched to it. Before I install it in the engine I am going to put it in a pot and boil the water with a thermometer again to make sure it is reading correctly. I am just waiting to buy the speedometer and tach for fitting to install the new guage cluster/dash panel.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Well I tried to set the rough timing at 12 degrees but managed to actaully set it to 10. I was also thinking I had an air pocket since it pulled a 1/2 gallon more from the over flow tank. I know it is normal for the engine to run hotter on the inital run. I was trying to keep that from happening as much as possible and find out how far off the temp guage was. You know that perfectionist mentality always getting in the way.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Heart of Ga.
Hey airharley I may not have been paying alot of attention lately, but what are you building? I've got to rebuild my 352 pretty soon and I am looking for ideas.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
I had to rebuild the 460 I installed 3 years ago after the cam gear bolt backed off 1/2" and the cam walked chewing up lifters and lobes. The metal shavings got into everything so I had a lot of cleaning to do. Not to mention turn the crank .010 on the main and rod journals.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
It may have been an expensive bolt but on the bright side I was able to do all of this while waiting.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=135405&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=135404&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=135403&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=135405&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=135404&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=135403&.jpg
Last edited by jowilker; Dec 4, 2006 at 05:52 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
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From: East Central Florida
Sweet Mark !
Those "460 BAD BOYZ" never look as big or "BAD" as they are, even that bright. No Kiddin' Man It Looks Great.
How did ya cam it this go-round? And FWIW I usually put cardboard over my Rad to get it to +215F to +220F(under PSI of course) for initial run in period then I re-check critical bolts while engine is still on the warm-ish side B4 it actually fully cools all the way down. Call me "****" but I'm convinced I get a better seating & fitting of everything by doing that heat up bit . . . .
I know for a fact "CI" rings seat better at Higher op temps, and most oils allow closer run in tolerances over +200F. I also drop my engine Oil & swap the Filter after the 1st hour of run time. Picky Picky Pete huh?
Also that's what my "Altered" OEM Air Filter looks like exactly, except blue I even have the Tall element just like that. Nice Job it looks like it's OEM.
FBp
Those "460 BAD BOYZ" never look as big or "BAD" as they are, even that bright. No Kiddin' Man It Looks Great.
How did ya cam it this go-round? And FWIW I usually put cardboard over my Rad to get it to +215F to +220F(under PSI of course) for initial run in period then I re-check critical bolts while engine is still on the warm-ish side B4 it actually fully cools all the way down. Call me "****" but I'm convinced I get a better seating & fitting of everything by doing that heat up bit . . . .
I know for a fact "CI" rings seat better at Higher op temps, and most oils allow closer run in tolerances over +200F. I also drop my engine Oil & swap the Filter after the 1st hour of run time. Picky Picky Pete huh?
Also that's what my "Altered" OEM Air Filter looks like exactly, except blue I even have the Tall element just like that. Nice Job it looks like it's OEM.
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Dec 3, 2006 at 08:48 PM.