Heater core removal help?
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Heater core removal help?
Well on the account of it's rent day and I'm too broke to reinstate my supporter status 
I would like to do something that costs nothing I pray LMAO. The heater seems as though it could work a little better, wanting to pull the core, from the looks of it no one has ever done to date. Before I go and do more than is necessary or screw something up..... Can someone enlighten me as to the proper procedure.. TIA 
I would like to do something that costs nothing I pray LMAO. The heater seems as though it could work a little better, wanting to pull the core, from the looks of it no one has ever done to date. Before I go and do more than is necessary or screw something up..... Can someone enlighten me as to the proper procedure.. TIA
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From: nunya
If its any thing like the 67-72 bumpsides then all you have to do is remove the retaining nuts in the firewall area that hold the heater plenum to the firewall remove the heatear control cables from the plenum and the heater hoses and pull it out from the inside-thats IF they are the same as the bumpsides. Hope this helps
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From: Escondido, CA
The 64 is a little different. You will have to remove the heater hoses as expected. On the front panel of the heater you will see 10 or more 1/4" sheet metal screws around the edges. Remove all of these to pull the core out. You'll find you have to move the glove box insert to gain access to the upper screws. There is also 3 screws on the back side of the heater box that also hold the core in place. That is all that you need to do to remove it. I have had to pull mine out a few times recently during my engine rebuild. You know the whole beautification process and all that stuff.
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From: Mddl A MexCans
LMAO yeah the beauty thing is a pain aint it 
Well it eas just the source hoses, the def vent hoses, air duct hose, and three nuts on the firewall. It drops, then the housing screws as mentioned. Easier than I thought, but always good to have a heads up before hand. Thanks Gents..
She wasn't that dirty at all compared to the floor vent crud that was cleaned out after the engine install. All cleaned up back in and not much change in temp really, full of fluid. Maybe a warmer stat is in order, think it's a 160 now.. Oh well was good to have a look see. haha
Well it eas just the source hoses, the def vent hoses, air duct hose, and three nuts on the firewall. It drops, then the housing screws as mentioned. Easier than I thought, but always good to have a heads up before hand. Thanks Gents.. She wasn't that dirty at all compared to the floor vent crud that was cleaned out after the engine install. All cleaned up back in and not much change in temp really, full of fluid. Maybe a warmer stat is in order, think it's a 160 now.. Oh well was good to have a look see. haha
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
You could also have a build up of scale on the inside of the engine side heater hose fittings. I replaced mine 3 years ago and they were almost clogged again with all the rust scale that grew. It would explain why I had a core leak at the return line connection, very small flat spot on the return tube allowed the coolant to seep into the cab.
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Engines hose fitting is brand new with the build, new water pump, & both tubes on the core were clear and nice, new heater hose on the build. I put a water hose to the core tube and let it flush flowed really well. Its warm just not hot like I'd like...I'm a skinny **** so when it's chilly is Chilly!!! LOL
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From: Escondido, CA
I know the feeling I spent two summers in Iraq with temps in the 130 plus range. Not to mention wearing full body armour, flight helmets, long sleeve flight suit, gloves, and the rest of the flight gear. Two days ago you wouldn't catch me dead in the garage at night. I am still trying to get my winter coat back so to speak.
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From: Mddl A MexCans
My heart goes out to all you guys that take care of us. Darn shame it has to be that way, but life is such. I'm not into the whole thing but it has to be done I'm sure. There was a time in my own life when dissagreements were dealt with in the school yard (fist to fist), no weapons. The youth these days just shoot each other but these folks here... their on a whole nother level. It's not like they have a beef with any one of us. They hate us as a whole, and their GOD says we gotta go... Just something fundamentally wrong with that in my own opinion, but My God says I'm not to Judge.. Just the same the rifles always loaded and ready 
but these folks here... their on a whole nother level. It's not like they have a beef with any one of us. They hate us as a whole, and their GOD says we gotta go... Just something fundamentally wrong with that in my own opinion, but My God says I'm not to Judge.. Just the same the rifles always loaded and ready
Last edited by jowilker; Dec 2, 2006 at 06:50 PM.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
I bought 50/50 premix to cut down on the likelyhood of cruding up my system this time. The water where I am at out of the tap has all sorts of deposits. Don't even think about washing car without a Mr Clean washer attatched to the hose. Even then I still have very light water spots but no where near as bad as without.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Mark, I am too cheep to buy that stuff when you can get a gallon of distilled water for about $.75 at the grocery. You are paying about $5.00 or more a gallon for their stump water that you don't know where it came from. It is just pre mixed.
John
John
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From: Clarksville,Tn
Just add to the solution; sounds like everything is clean and flowing smoothly; I would as you mention in earlier post to run a 185 or 190 temp thermostat; I'm sure your engine factory options is one of them degree's.
I know of guys who run 195 during the winter and 160 in summer.
Mitch
I know of guys who run 195 during the winter and 160 in summer.
Mitch
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