Brake lights
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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From: Boise, Idaho
Brake lights
Someone informed me my brake lights were inoperative on my 65 F250. I noticed there is a switch on the brake cylinder with 2 connections, however only one wire is connected to that switch. Another wire close to that one looks like it may have been cut. My taillights work but no brake lights. Bulbs are ok. How likely is it that the switch is bad?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 223
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From: Rexburg,Id
You should have two wires on the brake-light switch; one is power coming in--the other feeds power to the brake lights when pressure is created in the brake line (when you push on the brake).
I have had a switch fail on my 66. It feels like a brake hose must have broken--you push on the brake, it kind of goes soft for a second, and then it gets firm again. When this happens, you will have a small fluid leak at the switch.
You could have a bad switch, but there MUST be two wires hooked to the switch.
Good luck!
I have had a switch fail on my 66. It feels like a brake hose must have broken--you push on the brake, it kind of goes soft for a second, and then it gets firm again. When this happens, you will have a small fluid leak at the switch.
You could have a bad switch, but there MUST be two wires hooked to the switch.
Good luck!
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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From: Boise, Idaho
The master cylinder was just replaced, and the brakes checked out fine. They mentioned the wires to me but didn't really say anything. I will try splicing that other wire and adding a connector and see what happens. I don't know why someone would have cut it. Thanks for your reply and input.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 130
Likes: 3
From: Egypt, AR
If it was cut on purpose I would say you may have a short, and someone cut it so it would not short out. Just be careful when you hook it up. If you smell melting plastic get off the pedal. I had a truck that the power was cut to the switch. Come to find out the tail light housings were grounding itself out.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
That wire that's disconnected, check it and the other wire for power. One should have power at all times. One comes from the signal light switch in the column which is hot all the time. THe other wire should not be hot. It gets power when you step on the brake pedal. Just use a test light and ground the test light and test. If you don't get power, your problem is before the brake switch. Trace the wire back thru into the cab. Check the fuse box for a blown or missing fuse. You could have a shorted wire that's bare or pinched somewhere, or a bad signal switch in the column. Be careful if you hook it up, don't want to start a fire. if you find a blown fuse, it blew for a reason. If you find power there at one of the wires, make a short jumper and connect it to the other wire. The tail lamps should light up like you're pushing on the brakes. If this happens, then most likely the switch is bad. You can get them thru NAPA, CarQuest or any good auto parts store. You'll have to bleed the brake master cyl at the line going into the M/C to remove any air in the line. Pretty easy fix.
Barry
Barry
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Clarksville,Tn
As always I'm late into the ball game; but here's my $.02 worth.
Does sound like your problem it the 2nd wire not attach and activating the system, additionally I would remove your tailights and reclean a good ground surface where the attaching screws install into the metal housing of the metal lips in the bed body mounting brackets.
But it sounds your lose wire is not completing the circuit.
Mitch
Does sound like your problem it the 2nd wire not attach and activating the system, additionally I would remove your tailights and reclean a good ground surface where the attaching screws install into the metal housing of the metal lips in the bed body mounting brackets.
But it sounds your lose wire is not completing the circuit.
Mitch
