Gauge Installation
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Gauge Installation
I just got my gauges and am going to be hooking them up this weekend. Any tips on installation? The trans temp seems pretty straight forward. I also have boost and EGT. EGT seems like the hardest one.
Thanks, Dan
Thanks, Dan
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From: Littleton, CO
When I did mine aI had some ?'s too, and someone on this site did a whole install guide with pics and everything that helped a lot. I can't remember his handle name, but it was something like, chixdigit. be sure to put your boost fitting (reccomended install choice) in the correct tube, I put mine in the wrong place and had to move it. After the intercooler, not directly out of the turbo (you want to read the boost right before it enter the engine). Be sure that you use the correct drill bit for the EGT probe and boost fitting: letter R, or .339. I used a 5/16 bit from the kit I had at home and had a hell of a time tapping the intercooler tube, but I figured it out before doing the EGT probe.
When you do the EGT probe, drill the manifold until your almost through it and put a clob of wheel bearing grease on the tip if the bit to keep the shavings out of the inside of the manifold. I let my truck idle for about 15 minutes just to be sure that there wasn't any in the manifold before I opened her up. Good luck
When you do the EGT probe, drill the manifold until your almost through it and put a clob of wheel bearing grease on the tip if the bit to keep the shavings out of the inside of the manifold. I let my truck idle for about 15 minutes just to be sure that there wasn't any in the manifold before I opened her up. Good luck
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Triple Guage Setup "A" Piller
Originally Posted by F350SD
I just got my gauges and am going to be hooking them up this weekend. Any tips on installation? The trans temp seems pretty straight forward. I also have boost and EGT. EGT seems like the hardest one.
Thanks, Dan
Thanks, Dan
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From: All Over
Originally Posted by 2006PSDSD
Be sure that you use the correct drill bit for the EGT probe and boost fitting: letter R, or .339. I used a 5/16 bit from the kit I had at home and had a hell of a time tapping the intercooler tube, but I figured it out before doing the EGT probe.
When you do the EGT probe, drill the manifold until your almost through it and put a clob of wheel bearing grease on the tip if the bit to keep the shavings out of the inside of the manifold. I let my truck idle for about 15 minutes just to be sure that there wasn't any in the manifold before I opened her up. Good luck
When you do the EGT probe, drill the manifold until your almost through it and put a clob of wheel bearing grease on the tip if the bit to keep the shavings out of the inside of the manifold. I let my truck idle for about 15 minutes just to be sure that there wasn't any in the manifold before I opened her up. Good luck
I would not recommend using grease while drilling. With the engine running at idle...Drill dry...and start with a small pilot hole. This keep the shavings small and allow it to be blown out. Move up one drill bit size at a time until you reach 21/64 or the Type R (.339). As you are moving from drill bit to drill bit...make sure you do not try and go through in one motion...back it in and out gently until you are through. This will allow the small shavings to blow back out towards you....plus it will prevent the bit from binding. Make sure on each pass that you use the same angle of approach so you do not bind the bit. If you feel the bit seizing...simply back it out and start again.
If you are careful and deliberate there is not way to break a bit off inside the manifold.
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11/32 = .343
Using grease can make the shavings stick inside the manifold just like it makes it stick to the bit. Using the method I described it would not be beneficial to have anything preventing the shavings from blowing back out with the engine at idle.
Just to be clear...The engine is at idle when you are drilling
Using grease can make the shavings stick inside the manifold just like it makes it stick to the bit. Using the method I described it would not be beneficial to have anything preventing the shavings from blowing back out with the engine at idle.
Just to be clear...The engine is at idle when you are drilling
Last edited by Bear Hunter; Dec 1, 2006 at 01:06 PM.
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From: Fairfax, VA
I found this it helped my install a lot even though i had AutoMeter gauges.
http://dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/PSD3gauge-p1.htm
I also started with a small drill bit and worked the way up to the correct size. Between each drill bit i also held a vacum with a hose up to the hole sucking and small shavings out. Engine was off.
http://dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/PSD3gauge-p1.htm
I also started with a small drill bit and worked the way up to the correct size. Between each drill bit i also held a vacum with a hose up to the hole sucking and small shavings out. Engine was off.
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egt sensor
i wouldnt put that after the turbo.. i put mine in the exhaust manifold because i think its a little more accurate and when its there you dont want to get it past 1250 to 1325 degrees very long or else you will melt the turbo blades... if you put it after then your temp is going to be about 300 degrees off... on the boost if you have one in the dash its not as good as one on the pillar, there is a boost line that goes from the manifold to the map sensor.. just t-tap into that and you'll be fine.. that way you dont have to tap into the boost tubes..
Josh
second 06 f-350 6.0 ccb long bed
banks exhaust, intercoolers and tuner with pda
20" wheels and towing a 40' fifth wheel toybox
banks installer!!
Josh
second 06 f-350 6.0 ccb long bed
banks exhaust, intercoolers and tuner with pda
20" wheels and towing a 40' fifth wheel toybox
banks installer!!
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egt sensor
and when you deside to tap into the manifold.. i used a 1/4" npt pipe tap.. didnt even take the manifold off.. just drill it carefully and tap it and then use a small magnet and get "ALL" of the chips out... or else you will destroy a 50,000 dollar truck..
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Your not going to destroy your truck doing it at idle if your careful and follow the procedure correctly
For the boost tube...tap the intake elbow. Tapping into the MAP line will cause you to have boost gauge flutter at higher psi's. Tapping the intake elbow will give you smooth readings throughout the range.
before you start tapping and drilling with a 1/4" NPT...make sure your fittings are 1/4" and not 1/8" NPT.
The type R (.339) drill bit or the 21/64" bit is for 1/8" NPT not 1/4"
I'll have a full tech. article hosted soon, with pictures of each step that will take you through prepping and painting the Pod to hardware installation and wiring.
For the boost tube...tap the intake elbow. Tapping into the MAP line will cause you to have boost gauge flutter at higher psi's. Tapping the intake elbow will give you smooth readings throughout the range.
before you start tapping and drilling with a 1/4" NPT...make sure your fittings are 1/4" and not 1/8" NPT.
The type R (.339) drill bit or the 21/64" bit is for 1/8" NPT not 1/4"
I'll have a full tech. article hosted soon, with pictures of each step that will take you through prepping and painting the Pod to hardware installation and wiring.
Last edited by Bear Hunter; Dec 1, 2006 at 01:56 PM.
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Thanks everyone for all the great info. I will be tackling this tomorrow.
03KingRanchF250 - That website is great, thanks for the link.
Bear Hunter - Did you remove the intake elbow in order to tap for the boost gauge? Is there a gasket on the manifold side? If so, is it reusable?
Also, is it worth the extra effort to put the EGT sending unit on the passenger side, or should I go with the drivers side?
03KingRanchF250 - That website is great, thanks for the link.
Bear Hunter - Did you remove the intake elbow in order to tap for the boost gauge? Is there a gasket on the manifold side? If so, is it reusable?
Also, is it worth the extra effort to put the EGT sending unit on the passenger side, or should I go with the drivers side?
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I had Autometer Ultra-Lites in my old truck and am now running the Ultra-Lite II's
Here is where the boost line is routed to. Shown below is the Accufabracing Power Air Inlet which replaces the stock intake elbow. The Accufab Inlet comes pre-drilled and tapped. Using a stock intake, you would just remove it and drill with Type R .339 or 21/64" and tap with a 1/8 NPT tap
Here is where the boost line is routed to. Shown below is the Accufabracing Power Air Inlet which replaces the stock intake elbow. The Accufab Inlet comes pre-drilled and tapped. Using a stock intake, you would just remove it and drill with Type R .339 or 21/64" and tap with a 1/8 NPT tap
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From: All Over
Originally Posted by F350SD
Bear Hunter - Did you remove the intake elbow in order to tap for the boost gauge? Is there a gasket on the manifold side? If so, is it reusable?
Decide where you want to drill the hole...centered at the bend of the intake should allow you to use a straight fitting and not have the boost tube get in the way of the fuel and oil filter caps.