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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Z4RACINGJZ
i wouldnt put that after the turbo.. i put mine in the exhaust manifold because i think its a little more accurate and when its there you dont want to get it past 1250 to 1325 degrees very long or else you will melt the turbo blades... if you put it after then your temp is going to be about 300 degrees off... on the boost if you have one in the dash its not as good as one on the pillar, there is a boost line that goes from the manifold to the map sensor.. just t-tap into that and you'll be fine.. that way you dont have to tap into the boost tubes..
Josh
second 06 f-350 6.0 ccb long bed
banks exhaust, intercoolers and tuner with pda
20" wheels and towing a 40' fifth wheel toybox
banks installer!!
Dude, you are not going to melt your turbo blades if the EGT pre turbo exceeds 1325 F.

As for post turbo EGT, yes it is not as accurate as Pre turbo, and that is because the After turbo EGT can vary from 200-600 degrees lower than Pre turbo EGT and the temp difference is not linear or fixed. Many factor effect the After turbo EGT.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:24 PM
  #17  
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did you go with intercoolers too... i like the way thats done.. looks clean.. ill get a picture on here of my guages..
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:26 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by F350SD
Also, is it worth the extra effort to put the EGT sending unit on the passenger side, or should I go with the drivers side?
Maybe, there is no hard evidence of this yet. It is still a theory that the right side EGT is higher than the left side, due to the fact that the right side pistons always seem to be the ones that melt first (main reason for right side pistons being hotter is due to the fact that there is less oil flow on the right side of the engine).

Install the EGT probe in either manifold, your choice, as both will do a good job.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:31 PM
  #19  
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dude, iv seen it happen.. people loose boost and they want to know why, ill do a tare down on turbos and people that hope there trucks up without putting gauges in, melt the turbo impeller blades mostly at the tips because they dont know what the egt's are doing... im not saying its not bad to get the egt's there.. ill get mine to 1400 but i dont hold it there all day long..
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:36 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Z4RACINGJZ
dude, iv seen it happen.. people loose boost and they want to know why, ill do a tare down on turbos and people that hope there trucks up without putting gauges in, melt the turbo impeller blades mostly at the tips because they dont know what the egt's are doing... im not saying its not bad to get the egt's there.. ill get mine to 1400 but i dont hold it there all day long..
A No!!! Your going to need temps well above this before you melt the turbo blades on the 6.0

You may want to do a little research and homework on the 6.0 with VV turbo before you start posting all this mis-information.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:55 PM
  #21  
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Which parts will fail first is a matter of the design and materials used in the various parts of the turbo-diesel, but usually it starts with the turbocharger. Under sustained excessive EGT, the square corners at the outer ends of the vanes, where the material is thinnest on the turbine wheel, can become incandescent and then melt, resulting in a rounding off of the square corners. If you or your mechanic finds this indication before anything more serious happens, consider yourself very lucky, because shortly after the tips melt, the turbine wheel goes out of balance and wipes out the turbocharger bearings, which may or may not result in shaft failure and destruction of the turbine and compressor wheels. Excessive EGT can also erode or crack the turbine housing. In extreme cases, high EGT can drive the turbocharger into an overspeed condition that exceeds the designed operating speed due to the additional heat energy. When this happens, either the turbine wheel or the compressor wheel may burst. If the turbo doesn’t go first, excessive EGT, if sustained, will damage the pistons. Such damage can include piston deformation, melting, burning, holes, cracking, etc. This damage is cumulative, so if you slightly burn a piston top, the engine may continue to run without problems, but the next time you run excessive EGT more damage may be done, and so on, until failure occurs. Piston failure can be catastrophic –- that means very expensive. At a minimum, an engine overhaul will be required, and that too is expensive. Excessive EGT can also cause exhaust manifold and cylinder head cracking. Exhaust valves can fail from high EGT as well. Among the first engine parts to suffer damage will be those made of aluminum since aluminum has a lower softening and melting temperature than steel or cast iron. Diesel pistons are aluminum, and a growing number of diesels also use aluminum cylinder heads. quoted by "Gale Banks"
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 03:16 PM
  #22  
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Nice cut and paste from the Gale Banks website. Now if you only understood how to apply it. You are at the 6.0 PSD forum, you have been here for a little over an hour, and posted more mis-information than correct.

All those turbo's you tear apart, are they on the Aluminum Head 6.0 PSD you talked about in this other thread, your post #41? (Also the Magneson Moss Act partial quote was nice.)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/55...gaskets-3.html

Guess which parts are Aluminum in the 6.0 PSD. And it takes more than 1400 EGT to melt these parts. Once you start racing and rebuilding the 6.0 comeback and let us know your results. Most of us would like to now since it is rare that FTE members race or modify there 6.0's

It sounds more and more like you are some type of a Gale Banks parts salesman and/or installer.

So again, do your homework on the 6.0 PSD before posting the mis-information.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 04:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Z4RACINGJZ
i wouldnt put that after the turbo.. i put mine in the exhaust manifold because i think its a little more accurate and when its there you dont want to get it past 1250 to 1325 degrees very long or else you will melt the turbo blades...
I have both pre & post temp readings...1500 degrees is not uncommon, you have to know your limit on how long you sustain the higher temps. The file I use right now settles in at 1250 WOT on a 10 mile run. We see more failures with the higher dollar kits by some companies that are suppose to be safe.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 04:57 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
We see more failures with the higher dollar kits by some companies that are suppose to be safe.
John,

Now there you go being politically correct again

 
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 08:27 PM
  #25  
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Based on my experience with turbo gas motors, (which may or may not translate) 1500 doesn't seem unreasonable pre-turbo. I know I ran my old turbo gas racecar at 1650 regularly, for 20-30 minutes of road racing at a time and never had a melted blade.

1325 melting a blade on the exhaust wheel?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 09:28 PM
  #26  
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Getting back to the install, anyone have a suggestion of where to get a 1/4" npt pipe tap? I tried Sears but they didn't have one.

Thanks, Dan
 
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 11:04 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by F350SD
Getting back to the install, anyone have a suggestion of where to get a 1/4" npt pipe tap? I tried Sears but they didn't have one.

Thanks, Dan
Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware. Double check and make sure it is 1/4" sending unit as most of the gauges use an 1/8" sender.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #28  
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Sorry I'm new to this.

I just want to know where I should mount my EGT Probe, pre-turbo or post-turbo? Which way is better?

2002 F-350 7.3L.
 

Last edited by 007sniper; Dec 24, 2006 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 07:48 PM
  #29  
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From: HAMPTON, GA ... AN HOUR S
I have seen most being mounted in the left side manifold.

Just a questions fpr bearhunter...why would you have an intake temp probe?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 08:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 007sniper
Sorry I'm new to this.
I just want to know where I should mount my EGT Probe, pre-turbo or post-turbo? Which way is better?
2002 F-350 7.3L.
Pre-turbo is much more accurate and is the place to mount your probe. As tjheavychevy said, mount it on the bottom at the rear of the drivers side exhaust manifold. There is a flat section there that is easy to drill and tap.

Hope this helps
 
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