OK, your EEC-IV computer is not easily reprogrammed via flash programmers. However, you can get replacement chips that go inside the ECU that will do the same thing. You need to contact the guys over at ford fuel injection, Pable placed a link in a previous post. If you have a 1996 or newer, contact the guys at diablosport. You can also get a controller from simple digital systems.

 

no more going up hill with PING! PING! PING! BANG! BLOWEN HEAD GASKET! ... stop over heating and preignition and tranny sliping up hills...i think this is the answer to MPG POWER! and LONG LIFE!!
PS. I AM STILL LOOKING FOR A HIGH STALL TORK CONVERTER...... PLEASE HELP!!!!

Hypertech Power Products: tsetruckstuff.com
http://tsetruckstuff.com/page/tsetru...FSNQYwod5hZN2A

 

THANK YOU 96 : ) I orderd the shift kit....i can`t wait to try it out... the weather is realy cold and i am working lots of overtime.... i am in the middle of the engine swap on my aero.... things are going slow and the fun is turning into work..... i hope to get it togather next week (WEATHER PROVIDING) but things are going really slow.... my fingers are frozen!!!........... thank you ALL for your support.............. i will get this thing finished and itwill be AUSUME!!!!................. PS I still need a high stall TORK CONVERTER to put it all togather............................. THANKs AGAIN : )

 

hey 96 thank you for the info........... i orderd the shift kit... comming soon : ) ...... the weather is really cold and i have been working lots of overtime........ i hope to get the engine swap over soon.... but it is a pain in the *** my fingers is frezzzzzing!!!!! and my knuckles is bleading..lol... i truly appreciate EVERY ONE`S help.... this thing will be AWSUME!!! i will keep you all informed as things come togather............ PS... I STILL NEED A HIGH STALL TORK CONVERTER..............PLEASE HELP!!!

 

MPGVAN, I found this information on a high stall torque converter for your application.

As with the E4OD and A4LD transmissions, few vendors have yet to produce higher stall-speed torque converters for the AOD-E/4R70W transmission. However, Baumann Engineering can provide a custom-built torque converter for these and most other applications. In the case of converter clutch style transmissions, such as the AOD-E/4R70W, E4OD and A4LD, we rarely advocate removing the lockup clutch assembly from the torque converter. Therefore, we provide our converters with new heavy-duty lockup clutch assemblies. This allows you to selectively control converter lockup with the Baumannator TCS™ or even external switches if desired, thereby providing maximum efficiency and versatility with no adverse effect on vehicle performance.

I don't think you need the high stall torque converter, but that clutch lockup assembly sure sounds nice. It sure wouldn't hurt to have a high stall know that I know they are available. Just do a google search for these guys and see if they can help you.

 

What's the benefit of a high stall converter on a van? I know they are used in drag racing. Surely not.....

 

high stall=high fuel wastage

works behind a 7000 rpm Chebby SB in a light body straight ahead vehicle

worthless in a 75 shp low rpm van

 

Tell us what you really think 96

 

It was a Beutifull sunny day!! the birds were chirping!! so i thought what a nice day to work on the van. ive made progress but nothing to even break the ice on the motor swap after numerous bloody nuckles and 4 broken 15 millimeter sockets, a broken ratchet I threw my hands up in total disgust!! i grabed my trusty air chisel and proceeded to jack hammer a BIG CHUNK out of the manifold and the exhaust bolt fell right out Then I thought oh boy now the motor will come right out.... but NO!!! nothing could be that easy... Or could it? i was pulling and pulling on the motor and noticed that I was lifting the right wheel off the blocks?? Then i heard a loud POP!! Hummmmmmmmmm?? what could this be??... ..lol.. A broken motor mount??? no because the van was still hanging in the air. LoL There was one hidden motor mount bolt behind the AC unit on the side of the block.. I tried to get the bolt all sorts of ways but there wasnt enouph clearence for the wrench nor the ratchet. so using every extension possible and a swivel to reach the bolt from outside the wheel well, I pluged in my brand new harbor freight ratchet. but the dang thing didnt work so after kicking my air compresser over i stomped out the door to exchange it for a new one. The new air ratchet worked like a charm it spun the bolt right off..... I also picked up a special tool for taking off the fuel injection line.. but i still cant disconect the fuel line!! the dang thing is stuck!! i want to just cut it.. but that wouldnt be to smart.. now would it .. the A/C line also looks as if it is pressed on!! do i need a special tool to remove the AC Line??..... PLEASE HELLLLLLLLLLLP..... THIS THING IS DRIVING ME CRAZZZZZY

 

I have flash programer, but I can not find perfomance programs for aero!

 

Just do the programs for a 4.0L Ranger or Explorer. A flash programmer will not be very useful on an EEC-IV vehicle, but for the late 95, and 96 and newer OBD-II systems, you can change the settings with a flash programmer.

 

I am not familiar with your scenario. I have a 4.0L and it barely even gets hot on the hills. The trick is to keep the TC locked up when you are going up those hills, if it unlocks, promptly take the transmission out of overdrive. A high stall torque converter is not the solution. The solution is a better tranny cooler, and learning how to use the standard TC lockup system to its full potential. The hills I pull up are very hard on vehicles. I'm talking about 5 and 6% grades at over 5000 ft. elevations. As altitude increases, the engines work harder and get hotter. Mine do not get hot, and if it is, it is probably because the tranny is overheating the engine. I recommend getting a tachometer or rigging up some status lights to monitor tc lockup.

 

Sicdefused:

The A/C lines and the fuel lines require the same tools to pull apart. You can get a set of those for about $10 from a local auto part store.

Sorry to hear about all the troubles.

I'm surprised you had so much trouble with the engine mounts. They can be reached from under the van with an extension. Just unscrew one single nut that secures the mount to the frame, and you are ready to go. Once the engine is out, you can separate the mounts from the engine.

As for the exhaust bolts, if they had been put on with sufficient antiseize they will come right off.