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Well I changed the TPS today, reset the computer sart it up and now the engine light is on. Pulled codes on it and TPS is bad (yes the new one). It appears that the stumbling is gone but a new slew of issues. They are oedering me another one at there cost and I will replace it tommorow. I am also replacing the muffler and am curious if there is something othere then stock that you would sugest. It is just an aerostar so nothing to fancy.
stock cheap Walker is best...replacements never last as long as original....have welded in if possible....last longer with good welder....
put back all original rubber shock hangers....they are critical to carry the vibration load and not break off the exhaust manifolds...
waste of money to put high performance mufflers on a low performance V6....the large original design passes lots of gas...more than the restrictive 2 into 1 crossover and small cat. converter
also check and replace flex pipe at same time....they are usually shot when muffler goes....get a quality stainless flex inside of stainless mesh...more expensive than the muffer both worth the long life....
check tailpipe also, probably thin and holed at rear end hump or bend
Yep, cheap old Walker Manufacturing cylindrical muffler. $19.99 last time I replaced it....about 70,000 miles ago.... still holding up. Short trips are murder on the exhaust system. No time to warm up and dry out the insides, therefore lots of rust damage.
Ok, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I have one more question for now, where can I get one of these cheap walker mufflers? Autoparts store, internet, muffler shop. I also think that you guys are right, I need to get a new flex pipe at the same time. Could you also possably tell me what the inlet and outlet diameters are as well as the lenght is on a stock muffler. I hope that these questions are not getting to stupid, just trying to keep the old girl running for as long as I can. Thanks guys for all your help.
Last edited by Luddachris; Dec 7, 2006 at 11:16 AM.
shop around....lots of free shipping offers now....try your local discount parts store also....many will match internet pricing and no shipping, may have to wait for part from warehouse
flex unit bolts to back of cat & welds or bell adapter's w. clamps to front of muffler....get new gasket and new bolts....i like stainless steel....can remove or retighten needed
Well I got the TPS installed, the check engine light went out but the stumbling it still there. Sometimes it is better and other times it is worse. is there anything else that you guys can think of as why my van would keep doing this. Checked it again for any codes and nothing. Someone told me that there might be 2 O2 sensors on this van but have looked and found nothing. The higher the RPM's the less that it stumbles, however that could just be that I am not feeling it at speed, only on exceleration. Thank you guys for your help, my wife is getting to the point that she thinks that we should just get a new conversion van, but I just can not like the old girl go ( had her to long)
is it a stubble/hesitation where engine cuts back?
a miss that cuts in and out?
a surge ahead then cut back?
or continious rough running while accel?
i would run a fuel pressure test while it's stubbling
does it have to be in gear under load on road? or will it accel stubble in park?
marginal fuel pressure from weak pump, plugged pump sock filter or a fuel pressure regulator that has a weakened spring can cause accel. stumble and fuel starvation
will need a long hose commercial fuel pressure gauge that you can monitor in cab
there is a large section in Ford Service cd related to stumble on accel. way too much to cover here
here are the OASIS numbers covered in manual
Hesitation/Stumble 611000
—Acceleration 611500
all OBDI ECU/PCM system Aeros have 1 O2 sensor only, general dividing age is pre '96...a few '95 Aeros are OBDII
one other remote possibility is an excessively worn cam chain/gear set...usually shows up as power loss under load on hills and accel.....
difficult to test for with common DIY test equip....
I would say that it is a miss that comes and goes, when the engine is cold the miss is very light as the engine warms up it gets worse. On top of that every day is differant, some days it is fine around town you can only notice the miss when getting on the freeway, Some days the miss is so bad that it misses everytime that you touch the gas. It is never the same day to day.
the mechanic that came out here said that he ran a vacume test, so I am assuming that it was done. He said that all was good with vacume.
I am not sure how to run a fuel preasure test.
You asked = does it have to be in gear under load on road? or will it accel stubble in park?
Yes it has to be in gear under a load, I can get it to miss in the drive way if it is in gear and I have the brakes on.
Where can I get a fuel preasure guage to run this test?
You also mentioned a Ford Service cd, where can i get one of those
You might do your own test with a simple vacuum guage, and attach it to one of the intake manifold nipples. It should read at least 18" Hg, but higher the better.
I got my fuel pressure guage from BBK (now Brother's Performance) in Corona, CA. You should be able to find one from other sources. You screw it onto the Schrader valve on the fuel rail to read, and remove when done. The fuel pressure should be around mid to high 30's PSI at idle, and low to mid 40's with the vacuum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator (and plugged so it doesn't upset the engine too much).
You can get images of the Ford service CD's from www.fordcds.com . I had no luck with the 1992 ISO file; I ended up downloading the .NRG file and using Nero to burn it to a CD. It turned out that none of my CD burning software were able to read the 1992 .ISO file, butthey all were able to read the .NRG file.
the vacuum LEAK test we have been talking about looks for vacuum leaks in the throttle body , plenum and intake manifold gaskets from lose bolts or gasket blowout usually caused by backfires
use a spray can of TB, carb, fuel injection cleaner with spray tube...with engine running spray along gasket areas moving very slowly...engine speed up and smooth out=gasket leak
we alway start with bolt torquing to specs and if still leaks=gasket replacement.....common problem on Aero's especially the 4L
the miss/stumble you describe can also be caused by the EGR valve...i show conflicting info that Aero 4.0Ls from '91 on were equiped with EGR...my '96 4L has EGR with DPFE....EGR systems can be difficult to troubleshoot especially an intermittent problem
there is an extensive section on EGR in the Ford Service cd...troubleshooting and repair