Hey guys...

still researching swapping out the volare clip for the mustang II. One of my obstacles is the hole in the frame that the volare subframe will leave.. I need a way to reinforce the frame and replace the missing pieces of the frame rail for cosmetics.. I considered having a "C" shaped section formed to match the shape of the frame rail, but this area slopes from back to front and I don't think normal equipment can handle this type bend..

Next option is building (from plate) a "c" section to fit the profile of the frame.. grind the radius to match the frame rail corners...weld it in... then patch the exterior of the frame with light gauge (1/8" metal) for cosmetics... this would probably be the cheapest and easy way...

option #3... anyone have a front half of the frame that could be scavengered for the two sections of rail that I need... anyone done a Camaro clip and have the old frame sitting around ???

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any other suggestions for fixing/replacing the notches cut in the frame rail for the Volare sub frame ???

tia

john

 

Your best option would be to sell the frame with the volare clip on it. Or better yet trade your frame for an original frame. I am sure someone would be willing to trade their frame for one that all that work has been already done to. Then you an start over with a fresh untouched frame.

 

Sounds to me like Franklin2 has the right idea concerning selling or trading for an untouched frame. If you still really want to fix your current frame you might consider a different way of replacing the removed material.

If I understand the Volare clip mods correctly, only the lower leg of the frame rail and part of the web were cut out. I found that 3/16" x 3/16" x 2-1/4" structural steel angle fits the leg and about half the web almost perfectly. I just cut the rail leg and web so there was a hole the size of the angle and welded the angle in. You could also cut one leg of the angle shorter if you don't want to cut out more of the frame web. Grind the outer corner of the angle to match the original frame rail radius and grind down the welds - a fairly easy job. The inner radius of the structural steel angle is pretty darn close to the original frame rail inner radius. I think this method might be a lot easier than making up a whole C section.

A couple of other notes - before welding, I clamped the frame rail to a real beefy I-beam and was careful not to put too much heat to it all at once. Since I kept half the frame rail intact I didn't have to worry about lining up multiple pieces and I ended up with a very straight section when I was all done. I also was concerned about strength so I posted a question a few days ago concerning how folks do reinforcement after this sort of repair. Got lots of good replies. I don't recall the post title but it's still on the board and fairly recent so it shouldn't be too hard to search for.

Good luck with whatever you try.

George

 

John

If you insist on working with what you got, I would do option three. It will look nice with a little MIG and grind. My frame was pretty hacked from a previous Volare install so I had to do a little strengthening myself. After you replace the frame rail you can beef it back up with some 3/16th in a variety of ways. Then box it and your in business. One other issue, I attached my Volare to the front crossmember very thoroughly. What do you have to contend with on that end of the project?

Dewayne
53 F100

 

We welded it in every place we could, both inside and out. A plasma cutter will take care of than and then a lot of grinding to dress it back up for filling. I like the idea of the 3/16" angle.. and there is plenty of meat in the radius to match the frame rail radius.. But I still like the idea of a nice thick plate running down the web of the rail...

I really don't want to start over.. my rear suspension is complete with ladder bars and coil/overs and I'd hate to replicate that on another frame.....

my expert helper/fabricator is coming over next week and we'll get up under it for more study... should be meat for another article here !!!

the story continues.... news at 11

thanks all for the help

john (never satisfied...light the torch !!!)

 

John

I put 2 pieces of angle in per side in an upside down V pattern before I boxed. I forgot you put all the work and money in the rearend. I think making the front crossmember pretty again will be the challenge but it can be done. Get her done and I'll swing by for best two out of three handling and ride competition with my Volare. I finally found the torsion bar mount bushings for my Volare. Cost of the Volare route isn't really all that cheap if you make it all new again.

Dewayne

 

John, have you priced what custom frames go for? I would sell your volare'd frame and get paid for my labor. This would help pay for the Mustang II stuff. I'd bet you could get enough to buy the tubular a-frames and a new 4-link. There are a lot of guys that don't have your experience and love to have a finished frame to start a project or kickstart a stalled project. Our club have given away 2 custom frames and both were bought by someone to decrease their build time.

 

Dewayne,

In case I decide to stay with the V-clip... where did you find the suspension parts, bushings and such... I'll probably need everything you did !!!

john


I love this hobby !!!!!

 

John

Kanter sells a fairly complete kit (kanter.com) for free catalog. I suspect it is off brand stuff though. MOOG also makes the stuff too but not in a kit and at higher cost from a regular parts store. The hardest (and most expensive) part to find is the torsion bar bushing at the lower control arm part # K7289. I paid $68 each side. I am hesitant to run the stuff from Kanter unless they tell me it is name brand. An F100 is heavier than a Volare. Especially if you are running a pig motor like yours. I would guess it will cost a minimum of $350 to freshen up the front end but it will be worth it. Take a look at your torsion bar bushings. I bet they are mush like mine were. I do have the part numbers fairly handy. If you decide to stay Volare, give me the diameter of your sway bar and whether or not your balljoints are press in or screw in type. I can give you the MOOG #s.

Dewayne

 

thanks DeWayne I'll keep that in mind...

I might put a message on the board looking for a fresh frame and see what turns up.... wonder what you'd sell a frame like mine for ??? volare clip and shortened 9" w/ disc ???

john

 

John

Figure out what you got in it and go from there. Greg suggests you could get paid for your labor. Perhaps he is right if you don't have too much wrapped up in parts. I don't think you will have a bit of trouble finding a fresh frame. There will probably be a not so fresh truck bolted to it but thats not all bad.

Dewayne

 

john

i have a frame striped in the front with the rearend still in here in ca and would be willing to trade.
DAVE