Inline 6 to Inline 6 advice
#1
Inline 6 to Inline 6 advice
Hey Guys,
Can you help me out here?
I have a '65 Ford F-100 with a 240 I6 1bbl. What I would like to do is replace it with a later model 300 I6.
Q: Is there a later model I6 that uses the same motor mount location as my original that I can just drop into my truck. I really don't want to have to redo motor mounts.
Q: Does that later model engine come with, or have the ability, to have an automatic tranny connected. I would really like to have an automatic that has OD for fuel mileage.
Thank You,
Max
Can you help me out here?
I have a '65 Ford F-100 with a 240 I6 1bbl. What I would like to do is replace it with a later model 300 I6.
Q: Is there a later model I6 that uses the same motor mount location as my original that I can just drop into my truck. I really don't want to have to redo motor mounts.
Q: Does that later model engine come with, or have the ability, to have an automatic tranny connected. I would really like to have an automatic that has OD for fuel mileage.
Thank You,
Max
#2
#3
A mechanic friend of mine said he could rebuild my 240 I6 to a 300 I6, but he said he thought there was no automatic that would mount up to it. Being a '65, it seems to be one of those inbetween (oddball) Fords.
Are you saying I can rebuild this original engine and then mount an AOD to it? Will the holes all be inline?
Max
Are you saying I can rebuild this original engine and then mount an AOD to it? Will the holes all be inline?
Max
#5
#7
The 240 & 300 block are almost identical & like 312 says, you can make a 240 into a 300 (or I suppose, a 300 into a 240). The main differences you'll find with a newer 300, is additional mounting bosses on the block & head. The 240/300 bellhousing is the same as the SBF, so any transmission that works with a 302/351 will bolt right up. However, the flexplate needs to be for a 300 as the V8s are externally ballanced while the 300 (all I6s actually) are internally ballanced. Should be able to pick one up fairly easy, if not, take a 302 flexplate to a machine shop & have them machine the weight off. You didn't say if you were planning on running a carb or EFI. You might was to consider running a carb & getting a '86 or earlier engine. The '87 & later 300s were EFI & have a different head design, if you run a carb on these engines you might need to re-curve the distributor. Additionally, or, adapting the EFI to an older vehicle can be more work that its worth. There are a few who have done it though, ask on the inline six sectionl. I've got some info about the 240/300 series engines on my site: http://www.geocities.com/edwins63/.
Hope all of this helps.
Edwin
Hope all of this helps.
Edwin
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#8
You will also need to make sure your radiator is setup for an automatic transmission and you will need cooling lines for it. Look along the bottom edge of your radiatior to make sure it has two currently plugged connectors for coolant lines. It you don not have them, you will also need to replace the radiator.
#9
Hey guys,
I appreciate the info very much. Keep it coming!
And to replace that radiator, what model car/truck should I get it from?
The reason I was thinking of a later 300 I6 is that I continually keep having oil leaks around the push rod cover on the drivers side of the engine. The thin metal cover just does'nt do the job and I have'nt found anyplace that makes a billet cover. I've seen pics of later model 300's that don't have the push rod/lifter access on the side of the engine.
If I'm wrong, can someone tell me where I can purchase matching billet covers?
Thanks Much,
Max
I appreciate the info very much. Keep it coming!
And to replace that radiator, what model car/truck should I get it from?
The reason I was thinking of a later 300 I6 is that I continually keep having oil leaks around the push rod cover on the drivers side of the engine. The thin metal cover just does'nt do the job and I have'nt found anyplace that makes a billet cover. I've seen pics of later model 300's that don't have the push rod/lifter access on the side of the engine.
If I'm wrong, can someone tell me where I can purchase matching billet covers?
Thanks Much,
Max
#11
You better take another look at a late model 300, because they all have pushrod/lifter side covers - necessary to get the lifters out. The key to the side covers not leaking is not to overtighten them; they want very little pressure or they will leak. I just redid mine with new gasket and they're dry. You may have other reasons to want a 300, but this isn't one of them.
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