If you have the van raised by the tires, I would be carefule with anything that will allow them to move. They're not going to fold in, as the upper and lower control arms whould prevent that. But they wll wobble side-to-side if you remove the steering rack. So you are finding that absolutely necessary? The last couple of times I pulled engines, I found it easier to lift the engine to clear the car, then roll the car backward away from the engine. The wheels of the lift usually don't roll as easily. So if you had to lift the van up to get work underneath, I think it would be much better to set it down again before actually pulling the engine.

To separate the Y-pipe from the exhaust manifolds, I drenched the bolt threads with WD-40 and let them sit for a few hours. Then I used a 15mm (I think that was the size) 6 point 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar to break the bolts loose. The first budge sounded like metal cracking, and I thought I broke the socket. But with each additional budge, I sprayed more WD-40 into the area, and it made the bolts that much easier to turn.

 

If the exhaust bolts are badly rusted I usually tighten them till they break, shouldnt take more than half a turn till they snap. Once the engine is out, extracting the broken studs from the manifolds shouldnt be too difficult. Also, take a good look at the surface of the manifolds that mates up to the cylinder head to make sure theyre smooth and straight. I had to take mine back off and machine them after the engine was installed because I had an exhaust leak, one of those lessons learned the hard way.

 

It was a Beutifull sunny day!! the birds were chirping!! so i thought what a nice day to work on the van. ive made reasonable progress on the motor swap after numerous bloody nuckles and 4 broken 15 millimeter sockets, a broken ratchet I threw my hands up in total disgust!! i grabed my trusty air chisel and proceeded to jack hammer a BIG CHUNK out of the manifold and the exhaust bolt fell right out Then I thought oh boy now the motor will come right out.... but NO!!! nothing could be that easy... Or could it? i was pulling and pulling on the motor and noticed that I was lifting the right wheel off the blocks?? Then i heard a loud POP!! Hummmmmmmmmm?? what could this be??... ..lol.. A broken motor mount??? no because the van was still hanging in the air. LoL There was one hidden motor mount bolt behind the AC unit on the side of the block.. I tried to get the bolt all sorts of ways but there wasnt enouph clearence for the wrench nor the ratchet. so using every extension possible and a swivel to reach the bolt from outside the wheel well, I pluged in my brand new harbor freight ratchet. but the dang thing didnt work so after kicking my air compresser over i stomped out the door to exchange it for a new one. The new air ratchet worked like a charm it spun the bolt right off..... I also picked up a special tool for taking off the fuel injection line.. but i still cant disconect the fuel line!! the dang thing is stuck!! i want to just cut it.. but that wouldnt be to smart.. now would it .. the A/C line also looks as if it is pressed on!! do i need a special tool to remove the AC Line??..... PLEASE HELLLLLLLLLLLP.....

 

after looking at the aircondition unit i figured out how to remove the large AC lines... . it has a aluminium block that connects the 2 AC lines with a 10mm bolt... take out the bolt and the AC lines come right off... i think figured out what the loud POP was... i belive it may have been compresed gas excaping from the AC unit,, now the only thing that is preventing the motor from coming out is the FUEL INJECTION LINE... the plastic tool i bought for pulling the line doesnt seem to releass the round spring clamp ....... ... ... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. .. Does Anyone Know of a easy way to pull the FUEL Injection line without Damaging it........ PLEASE HELP!!

 

I used the same tool that I used to take apart the AC lines. They are the same types of slip-fit with spring lock connectors. You may have to twist the two lines, or push then together to force them to loosen up before applying the spring lock tool.

 

the fuel line connectors corrode together from water moisture in fuel....spray connection with PB penetrating break free...let set and soak....then tap with a rubber mallet to shock lose

 

i have tryed everything... when i removed the engine from the Ford Tourus i just cut the line because it was of no use on the van...... i read some ware that you need a special tool to remove the fuel line from the rail.. he said it sells for about 10 bucks so i bought what i thought was the tool... but it only sold for about 3 bucks and i was suprized to see it was only a package of 5 plastic rings that open up and fit around the line.... ..... did i buy only the fittings for the tool and not the tool itself??....... if anyone has a fuel line puller can you please describe what it looks like?? or post a link so i can see a picture of a fuel line puller........
THANK YOU
.................................................. .................................................. ................................... PLEASE HELP!! the motor is hanging in the van ready to come out and the stupid fuel line is the only thing left to

 

take a look at this link and see which one you bought
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?CategoryCode=2109&SearchFor=AC%20 %26%20Fuel%20Line%20Disconnect

probably the fuel line to fuel rail conn.?
spring lock coupling
Spring Lock Coupling

<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <caption>SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED </caption> <tbody> <tr> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Description </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Tool Number </th></tr> <tr> <td align="left" valign="top">Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool Set </td> <td align="left" valign="top">T84L-19623-B </td></tr></tbody></table>
The spring lock coupling is a fuel line coupling held together by a garter spring inside a circular cage. When the coupling is connected, the flared end of the female fitting slips behind the garter spring inside the cage of the male fitting. The garter spring and cage then prevent the flared end of the female fitting from pulling out of the cage. As a redundant locking feature, a horseshoe shaped retaining clip is incorporated to improve the retaining reliability of the spring lock coupling.



Removal

1. Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Section 10-01 for fuel system pressure relief procedures. A fuel pressure relief valve (9H321) on the fuel injection supply manifold (9D280) is provided for this procedure.

1. Remove retaining clip from spring lock coupling by hand only. Do not use any sharp tool or screwdriver as it may damage the spring lock coupling.

1. Twist fitting to free it from any adhesion at the O-ring seals.

1. Using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool T81P-19623-G1 (3/8 Inch) or T81P-19623-G2 (1/2 Inch) (part of Spring Lock Disconnect Tool Set T84L-19623-B), disconnect fuel hoses at the fuel rail supply tube and fuel rail return tube.
   1. Fit tool to coupling so tool can enter cage to release garter spring.
   1. Push the tool into the cage opening to release female fitting from garter spring.
   1. Pull the coupling male and female fittings apart.
   1. Remove the tool from the disconnected coupling.

Installation

1. Make sure the garter spring is in cage of male fitting. If garter spring is missing, install a new spring by pushing it into cage opening. If garter spring is damaged, remove it from cage with a small wire hook (do not use a screwdriver) and install a new spring.

1. Clean all dirt or foreign material from both pieces of coupling.

1. WARNING: USE ONLY THE SPECIFIED O-RINGS AS THEY ARE MADE OF A SPECIAL MATERIAL. THE USE OF ANY O-RING OTHER THAN THE SPECIFIED O-RING MAY ALLOW THE CONNECTION TO LEAK INTERMITTENTLY DURING VEHICLE OPERATION.
   
   
   
   Replace missing or damaged O-rings. Use only O-rings specified for spring lock couplings.

1. Lubricate male fitting and O-rings and inside of female fitting with clean engine oil XO-10W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E.

1. Fit female fitting to male fitting and push until garter spring snaps over flared end of female fitting.

1. Check coupling engagement by pulling on fitting and visually checking to make sure garter spring is over flared end of female fitting.

1. NOTE: All vehicles require the large black clip to be installed on the supply side fuel line and the small gray clip to be installed on the return side fuel line.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Position retaining clip over metal portion of spring lock coupling. Firmly push retaining clip onto spring lock coupling. Make sure horseshoe portion of clip is over the coupling. Do not install retaining clip over rubber fuel line.

 

What you bought was correct. When you slide these plastic rings in, remember that the lip on the plastic thingy has to go into the joint so that it spread the spring lock inside the joint. Then you can twist the joint a little while pulling on it and it will pop right out.

If you are in doubt, ask the parts guy for the Ford AC/Fuel Line disconnect tool. A fancy set sells for 12.99 at Kragen, but they don't work as well as the cheap $4 set you have.

 

YES IT IS POSSIBLE TO REMOVE A 3.0 WITH EVERYTHING INTACT... the only thing i had to remove was the starter .. . i didnt evan have to remove the oil filter..... be sure to use a top of the line engine puller with good extention and two foor jacks... place one jack under the oil pan and th other under the tranny.. i raised the front wheels and plased them on 2 railroad ties... about 1 foot off the ground.. it was kinda tight but just high enough to do the job..... i had to unbolt the passanger side motor mount from the block leaving the mount in the van.. the AC caused alot of problems.. .... ...next time i will un-bolt the AC unit and get i out of the way.....i used a air chisel and a sawzall to cut the passenger side exaust manifold to remove the exhaust stud.. after laying on my back in freezing weather and braking 3 or 4 sockets the air chisel was my last resort..lol
some times you just got to do what you got to do to get the job done...lol ... ... ... ... i also had a lot of problems with the electrical conections in the cold weather...they were a pain to unplug..... is there a tool that can help separate the electric conectors?? a good electricel conection puller would have saved me a lot of time

 

Yes, that's where most of my blood was spilled

Ford sure made these things as counter-intuitive as possible.

 

spray silicone spray into the electrical connectors and let set for several hours....loosens the corrosion/dirt grip