aerostar engine pull tips and tricks
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 209
From: SoCal
It's definitely easier to disconnect the transmission first; less stuff to deal with. Ford installed the engine and transmission into the van as a unit, but they did it from underneath.
Not having done this before, I'm sure about the steering rack. I would say that anything that looks like it will be in the way should be removed.
My Chilton's manual talks about removing the engine through the front. I don't think my Haynes manual said anything about it. I see there is about 8" of grill height that adds to the available openning. Does the engine have to be tilted backward to be pulled up and out? If that's case, maybe the steering rack should be removed first. On the other hand, my 4wd model has the rack enclosed in the front cross member, so removing it won't really help.
Not having done this before, I'm sure about the steering rack. I would say that anything that looks like it will be in the way should be removed.
My Chilton's manual talks about removing the engine through the front. I don't think my Haynes manual said anything about it. I see there is about 8" of grill height that adds to the available openning. Does the engine have to be tilted backward to be pulled up and out? If that's case, maybe the steering rack should be removed first. On the other hand, my 4wd model has the rack enclosed in the front cross member, so removing it won't really help.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
It's definitely easier to disconnect the transmission first; less stuff to deal with. Ford installed the engine and transmission into the van as a unit, but they did it from underneath.
Not having done this before, I'm sure about the steering rack. I would say that anything that looks like it will be in the way should be removed.
My Chilton's manual talks about removing the engine through the front. I don't think my Haynes manual said anything about it. I see there is about 8" of grill height that adds to the available openning. Does the engine have to be tilted backward to be pulled up and out? If that's case, maybe the steering rack should be removed first. On the other hand, my 4wd model has the rack enclosed in the front cross member, so removing it won't really help.
Not having done this before, I'm sure about the steering rack. I would say that anything that looks like it will be in the way should be removed.
My Chilton's manual talks about removing the engine through the front. I don't think my Haynes manual said anything about it. I see there is about 8" of grill height that adds to the available openning. Does the engine have to be tilted backward to be pulled up and out? If that's case, maybe the steering rack should be removed first. On the other hand, my 4wd model has the rack enclosed in the front cross member, so removing it won't really help.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Gentlemen,
If you remove the heads, the block comes out easily from the front. However, consider that you can replace all bearings and remove pistons while the block is still in the frame. This is what I did and had good results a year ago. The concept of an in-frame rebuild is completely valid. Consider this. Virtually all wearing parts can be replaced with the engine block in the frame. Once the front components, accessories, are removed, there is very good access to the engine. We did this many times in chevys with great success and economy. I am not sure I would spend 3,000.00 on a new engine but replacing bearings, rings and having the heads rebuilt can be done for less than a grand.
Ken
Ken
If you remove the heads, the block comes out easily from the front. However, consider that you can replace all bearings and remove pistons while the block is still in the frame. This is what I did and had good results a year ago. The concept of an in-frame rebuild is completely valid. Consider this. Virtually all wearing parts can be replaced with the engine block in the frame. Once the front components, accessories, are removed, there is very good access to the engine. We did this many times in chevys with great success and economy. I am not sure I would spend 3,000.00 on a new engine but replacing bearings, rings and having the heads rebuilt can be done for less than a grand.
Ken
Ken
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 1
From: Orland USA
Sicdefused:
Yes and No...........
Yes it is easier to pull the engine with the Transmossion loose.
No you don't take loose any steering, rack n Pinion, or brake lines.
You also can leave the A/C lines hooked up too.
Here is how I did it.
http://jthill.herringtontech.net/aerostar/index.html
Before I did my two engines I spent a few days at the wrecking yard taking apart the front of the Aeros there finding out how to do it from the front.
Good Luck,
JaY
Yes and No...........
Yes it is easier to pull the engine with the Transmossion loose.
No you don't take loose any steering, rack n Pinion, or brake lines.
You also can leave the A/C lines hooked up too.
Here is how I did it.
http://jthill.herringtontech.net/aerostar/index.html
Before I did my two engines I spent a few days at the wrecking yard taking apart the front of the Aeros there finding out how to do it from the front.
Good Luck,
JaY
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
From: charlotte nc
Since the subject is engine removal. I replaced a 1.8 mazda engine in a 97 KIA last year and it really wasnt that hard, I left the auto tranny in the car. Many people think ricers are hard to work on,they really arent
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: ALCONA ONTARIO
Originally Posted by sicdefused
is it easier to pull the engine with the transmission or without, and should one unbolt the rack and pinion steering?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
just thinking out loud.... somone mentioned placing a rubber mat to protect the bumper... well that got me thinking.. why not place a board from the crossmember to the bumper to bridge the gap... now placing the puller in frount of the van atach the puller leaving some slack in the chain..... now go under the van with a good floorjack and place it under the oil pan and slowly lift and slide the motor over the crossmember wile taking up the slack with the puller sliding the motor on to the board and now fully suported by the engine puller you can finish the pull ......i feel this will alow enough room to pull the motor with the manafold and heads all intact........ just a tought
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 201
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From: ALCONA ONTARIO
Originally Posted by JTHill24
Aerocook:
Did you take off the Intake Manifold before you pulled the engine?
If not it is tight taking out but if you remove the IM it slides out with plunty of room to spare.
JaY
Did you take off the Intake Manifold before you pulled the engine?
If not it is tight taking out but if you remove the IM it slides out with plunty of room to spare.
JaY
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: ALCONA ONTARIO
Originally Posted by mpgvan
just thinking out loud.... somone mentioned placing a rubber mat to protect the bumper... well that got me thinking.. why not place a board from the crossmember to the bumper to bridge the gap... now placing the puller in frount of the van atach the puller leaving some slack in the chain..... now go under the van with a good floorjack and place it under the oil pan and slowly lift and slide the motor over the crossmember wile taking up the slack with the puller sliding the motor on to the board and now fully suported by the engine puller you can finish the pull ......i feel this will alow enough room to pull the motor with the manafold and heads all intact........ just a tought
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Hey thanks everyone im definately going out the front of the van to pull the motor, thanks for the sheet metal tip i think i will tack weld it to the crossmember so it wont slide around. But i still have one more question my van is a 1986 aerostar 3.0 litre and the motor I just pulled from my 1991 ford tarus 3.0 with coil packs to go into the aerostar and the aerostar has a old school distributor will the aerostar wiring harness hook up to the coil packs? Will the computer on the aerostar plug in and run the coil packs without any problems? Or am i going to run into some computer errors and wiring plugin problems on the coil pack.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA, area
Hey, MPV, I suggested the sheet metal but don't know if it will work. Maybe better to try it out using clamps or other temporary method first!
I've counted 5 Aeros in my town, just in the course of normal driving around, that are non-op for one reason or another, without making any effort to look for more. Easier ways to do swaps would sure be good to know. Some of these might have potential.
Ray Mac
I've counted 5 Aeros in my town, just in the course of normal driving around, that are non-op for one reason or another, without making any effort to look for more. Easier ways to do swaps would sure be good to know. Some of these might have potential.
Ray Mac
Last edited by fud24682000; Nov 30, 2006 at 11:12 AM. Reason: duplication of name
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
mpg,
new coil pack engine and old ECU computer will not work together...old ECU is designed for TFI dist. ignition....
may work by installing old dist. in new engine and using old ECU and all sensors off old engine on new
mate Aero tranny to new 3L before install to make sure they fit...check TC shaft fit to crank bushing
old ECU is needed for proper 3>OD and TC lockup shifts
new coil pack engine and old ECU computer will not work together...old ECU is designed for TFI dist. ignition....
may work by installing old dist. in new engine and using old ECU and all sensors off old engine on new
mate Aero tranny to new 3L before install to make sure they fit...check TC shaft fit to crank bushing
old ECU is needed for proper 3>OD and TC lockup shifts
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
The weather has been very cold lately so ive had limited time to pull the motor but ive made much progress with the aerostar motor and taurus motor. Thanks for the tip with the air conditioning unit ive put it off to the left side and as of now im working around it. I tried to get the exhaust donuts loose without much success, can i just drop it from the cat convertor? I think i may havto drop the steering rack the front tires are up on blocks if i dropped it would there be a safety problem with my wheels folding in?