Frame Mounted Receiver Hitch
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Frame Mounted Receiver Hitch
I recently acquired a Draw Tite frame mounted receiver hitch for my truck. It came off the same year truck, so I'm sure it will work. Does anyone have any tips on installing this? What are the bolts supposed to be torqued to? I have no instructions. It is also missing 2 of the mounting bolts. I'm not sure what all is supposed to be with each bolt. For each bolt it has a square metal washer and a nut. I'm not sure how it is supposed to go, so any help would be appreciated. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
I would throw out all of the bolts, and go to your local hardware store and replace them with grade 8 bolts. The reason for this suggestion is you said "acquired" and "missing bolts" which led me to believe this is a used item, which is fine. I don't like used bolts for hitches (or cylinder heads).
The mounting bolts go through the hitch, then the bottom of the "C" of the frame, and the square washers go on top, then the nut. You can use normal washers if you flatten one side with a grinder, sander, or file if you like self-inflicted torture.
Make sure the receiver part is "square" to the frame. If it's cockeyed it will load your truck's frame differently from side to side.
The mounting bolts go through the hitch, then the bottom of the "C" of the frame, and the square washers go on top, then the nut. You can use normal washers if you flatten one side with a grinder, sander, or file if you like self-inflicted torture.
Make sure the receiver part is "square" to the frame. If it's cockeyed it will load your truck's frame differently from side to side.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Corn country
Often removing your spare tires is necessary to get access to frame rails, plus it makes life easier. The hitch itself should just bolt through the bottom flange of the frame rail, I know on my F150 that's the way it did.
The hitch flange should have a little notched out section to go around a rivet or bolt in the frame, this also shows you have it mounted in the right position too. I think the first brand of hitch I had to drills holes, then the second hitch I put on there I only had to drill 2 new holes.
Either way I just used my 1/2" impact and let'er eat for tightness. This is a work/company truck that was severly over used for it's weight and pulled obnoxiously heavy stuff almost weekly for 8 years, never had a hitch problem.
The hitch flange should have a little notched out section to go around a rivet or bolt in the frame, this also shows you have it mounted in the right position too. I think the first brand of hitch I had to drills holes, then the second hitch I put on there I only had to drill 2 new holes.
Either way I just used my 1/2" impact and let'er eat for tightness. This is a work/company truck that was severly over used for it's weight and pulled obnoxiously heavy stuff almost weekly for 8 years, never had a hitch problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,558
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
The instructions with my Draw Tite hitch said torque the bolts (1/2" bolts) to 75 ft-lbs. You can re-use the blocks with new bolts to spread the load on the frame a little better than just a washer.
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