Oil Change
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Oil Change
I had a question regarding oil changes on a '48 F-1. After all the oil is drained out, I open the oil filter cannister to remove the filter and there is still considerable oil in there. I have to use a little suction pump to draw it all out. Is this normal?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
The flow of oil thru the canister is from outside of the element to the inside, thru holes in the center tube, down and out the bottom. The holes in the center tube aren't all the way at the bottom, so you will have an inch or so (as I recall) when you open it. Some Merc filters and aftermarket filters had a drain valve on the side to completely drain them.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 272
Likes: 37
From: Chicago
on my 48 with 226 six
there is a drain plug on the bottom of the oil filter holder
the first time that I drain the oil there was alot of sludge in the drain hole
nobody for the last few years never drained it he right way
Joe
there is a drain plug on the bottom of the oil filter holder
the first time that I drain the oil there was alot of sludge in the drain hole
nobody for the last few years never drained it he right way
Joe
Elder User
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As stated earlier that is normal. the hole in the tube is not at the very bottom. in all honesty you probly could do without the filter as it doesnot do a whole lot. I am planning on purchasing a full flow filter kit from motorcity flathead and will be getting rid of the original.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
[ F6Guy I am planning on purchasing a full flow filter kit from motorcity flathead and will be getting rid of the original.]
Is there a kit to go to a full flow that`s with a spin on filter out there?
That would solve both problems.
Is there a kit to go to a full flow that`s with a spin on filter out there?
That would solve both problems.
Last edited by Fomoko1; Nov 23, 2006 at 02:52 PM.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
For the flat V8, you should go here:
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
and read about the alternatives.
The bypass style filter does a lot of good; it just won't prevent a piece of dirt from going directly to the main bearings (always). In fact bypass filters are back in vogue to extend oil change intervals. They are a much finer filter media than the spin-ons (especially Fram).
The MCF "full-flow" set-up is a major pain to install, won't work with certain pans (like if your pan has the three ribs on the sides), and I have heard mixed opinions on whether or not it's worth the trouble. If you have a Canadian block, or have your block out of the truck, there is an alternative "95%" setup that is bulletproof and actually very similar to the stock Chev 350 setup. It requires drilling a hole at the back of the block and inserting a plug to divert oil out of the block and then back in (see pic). The Canadian blocks already have the extra hole. I believe this setup is also described on the page (above). [Note: the drawing is by the guy who sells the plugs used to divert the oil; I encourage you to patronize him if you go this way!]
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
and read about the alternatives.
The bypass style filter does a lot of good; it just won't prevent a piece of dirt from going directly to the main bearings (always). In fact bypass filters are back in vogue to extend oil change intervals. They are a much finer filter media than the spin-ons (especially Fram).
The MCF "full-flow" set-up is a major pain to install, won't work with certain pans (like if your pan has the three ribs on the sides), and I have heard mixed opinions on whether or not it's worth the trouble. If you have a Canadian block, or have your block out of the truck, there is an alternative "95%" setup that is bulletproof and actually very similar to the stock Chev 350 setup. It requires drilling a hole at the back of the block and inserting a plug to divert oil out of the block and then back in (see pic). The Canadian blocks already have the extra hole. I believe this setup is also described on the page (above). [Note: the drawing is by the guy who sells the plugs used to divert the oil; I encourage you to patronize him if you go this way!]
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Nov 23, 2006 at 05:12 PM.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I've never seen that Dueller! In fact I didn't know they even used the drillings for a filter, I thought it was for an extra gauge or something. As far as I know, they all ('48 - on) had the drillings, right? (even if they didn't use them)
How did those Mercs force the oil thru the filter, did they have a piece like in my picture? It would seem like if they didn't, you would HAVE to run a full-flow on those engines, or at least connect the two fittings with a hose.
How did those Mercs force the oil thru the filter, did they have a piece like in my picture? It would seem like if they didn't, you would HAVE to run a full-flow on those engines, or at least connect the two fittings with a hose.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
Yes the 48-54 Canadian blocks had the extra fittings. I think they had a similar plug like you since you can see that the oil pressure sender is mounted on top of the filter assembly. I don't know much about the system since I've never seen one. I found this picture of the MSN flathead V-8 forum years ago and kept it since I was trying to find a good flathead at the time. I don't even think you could find a filter for it anyway.
Elder User
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Those are both neat alternatives. I too was unaware that merc offered a filter like that. Iw ill do some more research before I make a purchase. The MCF kit looks easy to install once the motor is out the vehicle. I belive Speedway Motors sells the kits.
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