Urgent Starting problem
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Put the probe of the test light in the wire plug. put alligator clip on test light to - side of battery. turn key to start. If no light wire is bad between there and switch. check switch next. If power there when in start position than run new wire.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
That's right Lonnie like Artic Y says. we're trying to test for power going thru the wire that goes to the S terminal........not the S terminal itself.
I wanted a pic of that fuse thing you mentioned on post #
I wanted a pic of that fuse thing you mentioned on post #
Originally Posted by LonnieD
Dennis
there is a real small fuse at the bottom and both sides are hot...thought that was strange...
there is a real small fuse at the bottom and both sides are hot...thought that was strange...
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
When you were talking about he noise it would make jumping the soanoid it made me think the starter it self could be acting up like maybe weak brushes..and make shure you have a good grounding strap between your new motor and the body..good luck bill
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
From: Covington usa
Ok I put the tester in the plug and the clip on the battery side turned the key and nothing.. I'll track the wire...now again I heard that Boeing ans I tracked it down to a box under the (left) horn...I think (or at least it used to be called) voltage regular... could that be the culprit?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Yes that is the regulator. no it has nothing to do with the starting problem. Now that we know that no current is in the start wire at the solenoid than we need to test the switch. On the back of the switch is lugs marked I for ing. S for start A for accessories . put clip on test light to a GOOD Ground (you may have to remove the switch to see this) and put the pointed end on the S post on the switch. Turn key to start. If no light than your test light is not grounded good enough or the switch is bad. If test light lites than run a new wire from the switch to the solenoid on inner fender.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
The VR is just energizing from the key being turned on.
That's normal for those old VR's.
Do the test Arctic Y mentioned.
I'm presently trying to find you a prove-out diagram for that year a switch.
That fuse holder is probably for a radio or something.
Just trace the wire to see where it goes.
That's normal for those old VR's.
Do the test Arctic Y mentioned.
I'm presently trying to find you a prove-out diagram for that year a switch.
That fuse holder is probably for a radio or something.
Just trace the wire to see where it goes.
