Urgent Starting problem
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,723
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From: clinton,tn
if you can jump it with a screw driver and not the key check,the wire that come's from switch to the starter relay,it should have 12 volt's on it with the key in start position.if not check the wire before the fusible link.it may be about burned into and getting just enough to partly move the spring in the relay.makeing the noise you hear.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Read the post "help I got a short" read it clear through. He is having about the same thing going on and I think you will find your answer there If not. If not than post back here and I will be glad to help in any way I can. As I love a challenge
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
There is no solenoid in a Ford starter, that's chebbie talk, wrong forum.
Ford has a iron block that is pulled down by the field windings to engage overrun clutch/pinion as well contacts.
Sounds like a cheap relay replacement is needed.
Ford has a iron block that is pulled down by the field windings to engage overrun clutch/pinion as well contacts.
Sounds like a cheap relay replacement is needed.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 586
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From: Covington usa
I replaced that already Beemer Nut...read my psot a few ago...I've done about everything, and like I said earlier, after I replaced the solenid (on the fender wall) I can start it (well at least crank it) when I do a cross over from pole to pole with screw drivers...almost welded them together...anyway where do I go now? I've replaced the ignition...not sure how to check it (which wires should be hot or not)...I'm lost!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
Take a small jumper wire, hold one end on the heavy terminal on the side of the relay that goes to the battery (+).
Other end of jumper to one of those small terminals on the side of the relay, CAUTION NOT TO THE OTHER HEAVY TERMINAL LEADING TO THE STARTER.
You should be able to crank the motor.
Check that wire from the small terminal with a volt meter when the key is in the start position, should become hot only when in start position.
If not you have a open between the relay and ignition switch unless the switch is bad. I don't recall if you replaced the ignition switch already.
Other end of jumper to one of those small terminals on the side of the relay, CAUTION NOT TO THE OTHER HEAVY TERMINAL LEADING TO THE STARTER.
You should be able to crank the motor.
Check that wire from the small terminal with a volt meter when the key is in the start position, should become hot only when in start position.
If not you have a open between the relay and ignition switch unless the switch is bad. I don't recall if you replaced the ignition switch already.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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Sorry about my senior moment, about the solenoid on the starter - I got too many tractors that work that way and I always forget the ford aint got one.
BeemerNut's idea sounds right. If your relay/solenoid near the batter is new and you are certain it is working, then you may not be getting 12v from the key to the relay to cause it to close. BeemerNut's idea is to jump the relay closed. If that works then is a short somewhere between the little connection on the relay/solenoid and the key. If that doesn't work then your new relay/solenoid may not be working.
Peter
BeemerNut's idea sounds right. If your relay/solenoid near the batter is new and you are certain it is working, then you may not be getting 12v from the key to the relay to cause it to close. BeemerNut's idea is to jump the relay closed. If that works then is a short somewhere between the little connection on the relay/solenoid and the key. If that doesn't work then your new relay/solenoid may not be working.
Peter
Last edited by jowilker; Nov 27, 2006 at 09:34 AM.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 586
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From: Covington usa
Starting trouble
It will crank by jumping between the two large + post on the relay (that I replaced)...like I said I almost welded the screw drivers together doing so.. it sounds more and more like the problem is switch.. I'll try and che it out somehow...I replaced the swicth but only the front metal part and the back plastic electrical part...any idea what wires should be hot when I turn the key? is that the right way to test it?...I had problem with the large yellow wire(biggest one there)...had a hell of a time trying to splice it.. eady
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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Now wait, I wasn't having a senior moment, there is a solenoid on the starter on Fords - its the thing that pushes the starter into the flywheel. Maybe Chebbys also have the relay on the starter as well - the last Chebby I had was a pedal start - who needs electricity!
But back to LoonieD - as suggested, take a voltmeter and check that here is 12v when the key is on to the small (I think it is brown) wire that is attached to the small stud on the starting relay. That's what makes the relay close to start the starter motor. If there's no 12v there let us know and we'll tell you what wire it is at the ignition switch.
Peter
But back to LoonieD - as suggested, take a voltmeter and check that here is 12v when the key is on to the small (I think it is brown) wire that is attached to the small stud on the starting relay. That's what makes the relay close to start the starter motor. If there's no 12v there let us know and we'll tell you what wire it is at the ignition switch.
Peter
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
No, no, no, reread reply #22.
With you jumping the high current posts proves nothing in the way of seeing if the relay functions properly.
On the other statement "short" you would have a blown fuse if that's the case, you have a open, broken wire.
Retest like reply #22.
With you jumping the high current posts proves nothing in the way of seeing if the relay functions properly.
On the other statement "short" you would have a blown fuse if that's the case, you have a open, broken wire.
Retest like reply #22.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,230
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From: East Flat Rock NC
On a 71 F-100 I had a while back I was going though the same thing and I
unwrapped the wiring harness that runs across the front of the truck, the one
that runs across the top of the radiator support . I slide my fingers down each
wire till I found a wire that was broke internally, cut it, crimped a new small
piece of wire in and never had that problem again, on a different truck I found
a broken wire at the plug that goes though the fire wall into cab, this broken
wire on both trucks was causing the same symptoms ! I also had the same
symptoms on a mustang, it turned out to be a lose engine ground, as stated in
other posts.
Wally Wo.
unwrapped the wiring harness that runs across the front of the truck, the one
that runs across the top of the radiator support . I slide my fingers down each
wire till I found a wire that was broke internally, cut it, crimped a new small
piece of wire in and never had that problem again, on a different truck I found
a broken wire at the plug that goes though the fire wall into cab, this broken
wire on both trucks was causing the same symptoms ! I also had the same
symptoms on a mustang, it turned out to be a lose engine ground, as stated in
other posts.
Wally Wo.
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Nov 27, 2006 at 12:54 PM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by workingdog
Now wait, I wasn't having a senior moment, there is a solenoid on the starter on Fords - its the thing that pushes the starter into the flywheel.
Peter
Peter
Lonnie, HI
....Long time no talk 
This has been hard to follow because of an non point by point TS procedure
First off.... have your fully-charged batteries tested for draw at an auto parts shop. They do this for free.
Now, Instead of arcing across from Starter lug to Battery Lug on the relay (solenoid).
Just use a jumper wire from Battery lug to S terminal on the starter relay.
To See if that causes the starter to crank.
If it cranks no problem , let us know.
I'll wait to hear from you.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Nov 27, 2006 at 12:59 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 586
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From: Covington usa
Hey good to see you Dennis, been awhile. Well I just got my 69 back and problems..
"Just use a jumper wire from Battery lug to S terminal on the starter relay" so I should connect from the battery side of the relay and to where the power bolts on to the starter...right? what would this tell me? KNow of any quick ways to check the new switch? That might have a bad wire...not sure..it's snowing like crazy right now might be a day or two..till I get back to you thanks for the note!!
"Just use a jumper wire from Battery lug to S terminal on the starter relay" so I should connect from the battery side of the relay and to where the power bolts on to the starter...right? what would this tell me? KNow of any quick ways to check the new switch? That might have a bad wire...not sure..it's snowing like crazy right now might be a day or two..till I get back to you thanks for the note!!